WKHC202HBA (ABLEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

Followed the repair video provided in the order confirmation email. Was easy.

First of all, I watched the videos provided by this site. I am not a professional appliance technician.

My dryer is mounted on top of my LG washer.
I ordered appliance moving leg pads. And I ordered a small but effective jack to raise up both units to insert pads under the feet.
Now I could slide the stacking unit away from the wall.

I set out my drill, Phillips head bits, pliers, a socket set, a small crescent wrench, and my phone with videos.
I also used a short ladder to get up to the top of the dryer.
Having the dryer mounted on top of the washer was actually perfect for working from the front of the dryer cabinet.
Watch out for very sharp edges. You can wear gloves. But I found gloves to be an impediment to feeling the parts.

My replacement parts:
1) four drum support rollers with shafts. I replaced the roller and shafts together. The new rollers would not fit on the old shafts.
2) drive belt
3) two moisture sensors. Located on the lint filter housing.

Here is how it went:

I spent six hours in one day to disassemble, vacuum, reinstall parts, and reassemble. My dryer is a steam unit, so the control panel electronics are on the right side rather than on the front panel as in the video I watched. In order to replace the drum rollers and their mounting shafts I just needed to pull the drum rear mounting bracket forward just enough to get the small crescent wrench on the nut behind the roller and my socket wrench on the top of the roller shaft. And off they came.

I tested the dryer with a load of damp bath towels. The motor ran but the drum did not turn. It was then that I realized that I had the drum drive belt on with the wrong side facing the drum. One side of the drive belt is smooth. And the opposite side has parallel grooves. The parallel grooves side needs to contact both the drum as well as the motor pulley. The grooves face away from the tensioner pulley.

So, the next day I spent 90 minutes partially disassembling the dryer enough to get to the drum belt once again. I pulled out the drum again to wrap the drive belt over it in the correct orientation. It is not easy to see the motor drive pulley or the belt tensioner pulley. I did it by feel and watching the videos again. I hooked up the drive belt mostly by feel this time. And I got it done. Now the drier runs very quietly. By the way. No need to remove anything on the back of the dryer.

Pretty satisfying overall.

One of the roller assembly froze up & had a flat spot on it. There for causing the drum not to rotate. Pulled it out replaced the roller & up & running.

Watched a You Tube video

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

I assumed this was a belt problem. Ordered the belt and followed the excellent screw by screw instructional YouTube provided by PartSelect. In fact, I probably would not have attempted the repair, until I watched the video and was reassured that I could do it. When I got the front panel off, the problem was obvious. There was a dishrag stuck in the blower. Didn't need the belt, but the video was sure worth the price of the part (~$17). Mr. Appliance charges $109 to DIAGNOSE the problem! This was way easier than dealing with them, especially during a pandemic near the holidays.

Installed correctly but PartsSelect sent WRONG part, but part number on bag was correct. Installation of WRONG part fried the main board. A $100 fix is now costing me about $1300.00 for technician service and new unit. I asked PartsSelect to help with cost since outcome is due to their error. Totally unsatisfied. Will not suggest company to other DIYers.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

Called LG on the phone and they gave the button presses for diagnostics, which then gave the HST code, saying the Humidity sensor was bad.
The part was described as the Humidity sensor module. Actually it's just the wire leads for the sensor which must be electronic and only accessible by disassembling the dryer. There were descriptions about cleaning the wires, perhaps because some people use dryer sheets which cause a buildup on the wires and prevent them from doing their job. I use wool balls and have no buildup on my wires and replacing them did not fix the sensor, because the module accessible inside the dryer is not the moisture sensor, but only the wire leads.

We replaced the three dampers, two in the front and one in the back. We referred to the YouTube video someone posted on this page.

removed top and front. heater is at the base of the tub. the nut compresses the rubber seal and may take some wiggling to remove the old one.

Watched videos but didn’t show the clamp had to be placed on counterclockwise

This was all pretty straightforward with the helpful video hosted on this site. The only issues I ran into was I had a seized screw that stripped and I had to drill it out and replace it. Also, I had to disassemble the front and rear a little bit further than what is shown in order to install the new roller axles. I was pleasantly surprised that I did not have to worry about the triangular retainers, because the replacement rollers/axles use an improved metal retaining pin. Overall, I'm very happy and the dryer is nearly silent now. It was a bit of a challenge but I took my time and gave myself breaks throughout the morning rather than banging my head against the wall.

I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.

Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.

5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).

Viewed YouTube video form parts select to take dryer apart. Very easy to do if you just follow instructions in the video. Nothing too hard to do. Of note the 4 pack roller assembly is a whole unit, so you’ll have to replace the stem unit the old rollers use and not just replace the roller wheels like in the video. That is a different part number from LG. The front 2 are pretty straight forward to unbolt and replace. The back 2, especially one on the left is tighter clearance even with a wrench. If you’re able to pull whole dryer out and take back off, it’s an easier to get the one on the back left.
Also replaced belt just because i had it open, I replaced thermistor previously after getting a Te5 code about a year ago so that helped in taking it apart.
Would recommended doing it all since you’ll have it open.
Once replaced, everything ran again.