F1397FYN (ABWEEUS) LG Washer - Instructions

I followed the instructions give by video by Steve, the technician on that video. That video was FANTASTIC! I'm competent at repairs but tackling something like this with specific help on the order of steps saved me lots of time. Once I finished the work (8 hours of labor start to finish; 3 weeks to get the last part), the washer worked like new!

Figured out how to take off top of washer, look inside for problem, ordered new part, watched video how to replace part. All on line. $65.00 later and my 19 yr old washer is still working awesome.

I actually did the repair exactly as the video showed. If I would have had the part at the time of discovering the problem it would have been about a 45 minute repair from start to finish. Worst part of the whole fix was moving the heavy washer.

remove 2 screws from top panel - pull top panel back and lift off washer. reach down on front side and remove wire harness that is attached to door lock assembly. remove the 2 screws on front of door lock,remove and replace with new assembly. attach wire harness and then tighten assembly with the 2 screws. replace top of washer panel and tighten with 2 screws.

The video from PartSelect showed removing the retaining ring from the rubber washer tub boot to then allow access the door lock located behind the boot for replacement. That ring can sometimes be a real pain to put back on. This can be avoided altogether!

It's much easier to access the door lock switch by removing the two retaining screws on the top cover of the washer found in the back of the machine. Remove the top cover and you can then reach down to remove the wiring connector, unscrew the two phillips screws on the front of the door latch and remove the door lock. Put the new switch on in reverse order; plug in the connector, replace all screws and the top cover, and you are done! This method took than 10 minutes from start to finish.

Please note that the washer should be unplugged from power while working on any electrical component.

Followed the video supplied by this site and everything was as described!

pops right into hole

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

Took the sealing ring off the gasket, unscrewed the door lock with two screws. Unplugged it. Plugged the new one in, screwed it back in. Put the ring back on and it started right up.

I used another magnet to pull the old plunger out of the door and replaced it with the new part.

Just put in the new one.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

removed top and front. heater is at the base of the tub. the nut compresses the rubber seal and may take some wiggling to remove the old one.

First I had to elevate the washer on 3-5 gal. buckets in order to get underneath it and find the leak. Then I tried to repair the hose itself-which actually worked-but then the rest of the hose just started splitting everywhere I touched it. So I ordered the new part which took some careful comparing and examination online. But it was exactly the right part. You have to remove the top of the washer which is just 2 or 3 screws. Then taking the hose out was a little challenge-knowing I would have to put the new one back in carefully. Use Vaseline on rubber fitting at the end of the hose that connects to the washer. Need at least 2 people to raise the washer up in air to work on it.

Watched videos but didn’t show the clamp had to be placed on counterclockwise