40121 LG Washer - Instructions

Ordered a new water valve, easy installation, removed top cover of washer. Two screws and three hose clamps, done in 20 minutes.

removed 2 screws on back. removed top. disconected wires and hoses removes 2 screws holding assy in place and removed assy. put in new assy and installed hoses and plugs in same location removed from. reinstalled top and hose and ran washer.. new valve unite works but has a high pitched whine when valves turn on. :(

First I turned off the hot and cold water supply and removed the water lines from the back of the machine. I then unscrewed the 2 phillips head screws on the back of the washer for the cover. I slid the cover back and lifted it off the machine. Next, I unscrewed the mounting screws from each inlet valve assemble located on the back of the machine by the hose connections. I used pliers to pull the hose clamps back from the inlet valve, 1 at a time, then reconnected each hose and clamp on the new inlet valve. Once each hose was connected to the new inlet valve, I discarded the old inlet valves. I then re-attached each inlet valve. I placed the cover back on the machine and secured with the 2 screws, re-attached the water supply hoses to the hot and cold side and turned the hot and cold water supply back on. Everything successful, no leaks, and washing laundry again..........leak free!

Unscrew door and insert. Replace hinge. Screwed in. Replaced insert then door. Gave it lite slam. I took longer cleaning lint and glass. I too should be a repairman.

Removed lid (top of washer), then ran a cycle in normal to identify the failed component, then noticed the water inlet valve assembly for the hot water was leaking, used my pc and went to website Part Select and found to failed part on the parts break down item, then ordered the part, the part "Valve Assembly Inlet" for the hot water arrived 2-days later, replaced valve in less than 5-minutes, disconnected push on electrical connector, unscrewed the valve assembly inlet and installed the new valve assembly inlet, very easy

After finding you on google it was easy to repair. It saved me $95.00 service charge. Your direction made it very easy.

First, slide top cover back, then lift of washer. Remember to turn off water supply and disconnect cold water hose before working on valve. Also, unplug washer from wall socket. Disconnect three small electric plugs from valve, noting the postion on valve,then disconnect the water hoses from valve, noting postition of each hose. Remove two small screws holding valve to washer,remove and replace valve.reistall valve, reconnect hoses and electric connectors. Reconnect water supply, turn on water supply, check for leak, reconnect power cord to wall socket. Run washer through normal wash cycle, observing water valve for leaks, normal operation, if no problems, then reinstall top on washer

First we unplugged the machine. Then turned off the water and disconnected the hoses. Pulled out the machine and laid it on its side to access the themsistor located on the drum. (No, you do not have to remove the control panel at all to replace this part) The thermsistor is clearly seen with a flashlight. There were plastic ties holding the wires of the thermsistor so we used small scissors to cut the ties. Then unplugged the old thermsistor and plugged in the new thermsistor and used a regular bag twist to secure the wires. Repair complete and the machine is back to normal. Thank you Part Select.

pulled off top of washer to get at the inlet valve disconnect two hoses take two screws out and then you put it back together the way you took apart and your done

Unplug Washing machine first. Then remove 2 screws at the back of the top cover. Slide the top cover back then lift and remove. Unplug electrical connector @ inlet valve and remove water lines 1 going in and 1 out of valve. Remove 2 screws holding assembly in place then install new valve assembly and all other components in reverse order.

I removed the top off the washer, unplugged from the electrical, removed the three hoses and wiring plugs, removed the two screws holding the valve assembly in place, and replaced the part with the new. It was a very simple swap, and I even found a video on YouTube on how to replace it.

Conclusion was that either the control panel or the noise filter (an electrical fuse apparatus)was bad. Disconnected the water line, turned off power, and pulled unit out from cabinets. Determined that voltage was going into the noise filter (white harness) but almost no voltage coming out (red harness). Ordered noise filter. Hardest part was removing old noise filter from dishwasher frame without removing the whole unit from cabinet and turning upside down.One screw holds the part in the frame. With power off, I used a very small ratchet with phillips screw driver. Pried unit out with screw driver on side to the panel front. It has a retaining tab there.Installation was the reverse. Instead of putting screw back the way it was originally installed, I screwed it in from the outside of the frame. Much easier and just as solid. Tested unit with power on. Hooked up water line. Works great. Note: LG dishwahers have a high repair rate and that this part has a high failure rate. This LG unit was two years old. Never had to fix my 15 year old Sears dishwasher. It still works to this day. (I gave it to my daughter.)

Extremely easy--remove two screws in the back of washer connect elec. connections one at a time connect cold water lines one at a time and replace the two screws ion the back and you are done. Took longer to pull washer out from wall and push back than it did to replace part. Saved me $75.

It was so easy. i searched my model it brought up this site and the most common problem popped up without my even asking and recommended the part. i got it one week later and it was so simple to fix. a repair man wanted three times the part price to come to my home twice and would have had to wait longer. you guys were very helpful

The difficult part was finding the leak since it was very small and the washer was completely wet around the frame at the bottom. After completely drying everything off and waiting an hour-nothing.I had assumed the leak was in the bottom area around the hoses when actually the leak was the cold water valve[top rear] seeping,then dripping on the drum and dripping onto the frame 8 inches away.I ordered the valve about 10:30am online, the next day at 1pm it arrived. Very easy to install in 15 minutes.