41483 (ASTEPEU) LG Washer - Instructions

Followed this video
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MNp1hzlcF1g
The video was very good. Watch, stop, follow steps when doing the disassembly

I ordered the Rotor Assembly and Sensor Assy..
Rotor Assy. was not the problem.
1 - 17mm bolt in the center of the rotor assy.
6 10mm bolts to take off the Stator assy.
once you have the Stator assy off, upplug the sensor assy and release the clips on the sensor assy. and remove.
Install the new sensor assy. and plug the electrical connection back in.
replace the 6 bolts and screw the bolts evenly around the Stator.
replace the Rotor Assy. and secure the 17mm bolt.
Replace the back cover (4 - philips screws.
Do a test load.

YouTube is your friend for many such repairs. See this link for an overall description:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuvLuC8x4_s

I had to remove the top panel to determine exactly which valve was leaking. It turned out both hot and cold-water valves were defective.

After unit is unplugged and top is removed, it's a simple matter to remove/replace hose connections and electrical connections. It took me less than an hour to complete the task once parts were in hand.

Again, YouTube is your friend for such repairs.

Unplug and disconnect water lines. Move washer out. I used soapy water to make it easier to slide because it is stacked washer and dryer. Slid dryer onto large trash can saving my back. So easy. Make sure it is heavy duty . Removed lid. Removed old part by removing to screws in back. Disconnected 3 wires, disconnected one hose at a time while reattaching each one to new part. That way I was sure to get them back in the right place. Attached back to machine . Put water hoses back on and checked for leaks before but lid and dryer back in place. Ta da!! This was so easy. I am a 57 year old woman and this was pretty simple. I tried trouble shooting by using tub cleaner and everything as manual suggested but it still leaked. Watch a lot of you tube. Apparently lg has this happen with this part a lot. Thank you parts select. I’m sure this saved me a lot of money. I have had enough money bleeding from my pockets with bigger home problems. Thank you.

Removing the tub from the bearings was difficult, use penetrating oil, and have someone wail on the drum shaft (bolt inserted). The toughest part was getting the old bearings out of the drum. You spend a bunch of effort to wail on a punch that is trying to push on a bearing. Felt like I was gonna ruin the tub half. Putting the new ones in also felt overly difficult but, that is how bearings go. The teardown and rebuild was easy and kind of fun.

Removed items step by step in sequence as per video to get to baskets . Knocked out bearings and gasket seal. Replaced new parts and in reverse reassembled as per video. Very difficult without video to follow. My bearings were easy to remove but some are frozen in so will need oil ,bars or pipe to fit opening to drive out old bearings. Use camera and notes of sequence to aid in reinstall. Separate and mark fasteners as removed. Note : Was initially told by appl Insurance service person my bearings were bad because when attempting to spin a noise was heard and this not covered by plan ,but I found the motor position sensor had failed by testing it with multimeter which is a low priced part and easily accessable from back. Water hose screens partially clogged also. Canceled Appl service contract.

Figured out how to take off top of washer, look inside for problem, ordered new part, watched video how to replace part. All on line. $65.00 later and my 19 yr old washer is still working awesome.

I actually did the repair exactly as the video showed. If I would have had the part at the time of discovering the problem it would have been about a 45 minute repair from start to finish. Worst part of the whole fix was moving the heavy washer.

We replaced the three dampers, two in the front and one in the back. We referred to the YouTube video someone posted on this page.

Watched videos but didn’t show the clamp had to be placed on counterclockwise

Took off top of washer to get access to connector nozzle, which is on top front of washer rubber boot. removed old nozzle, installed new one. Easy peasy

followed video exactly and it worked perfectly

Used Youtube to look for a set of repair instructions. From start to end 35 min.

The difficult part was getting the door back on. Only 1 Youtube video I watched stated Do not remove the 2 center screws at the top. Wish I had seen that video first.

Overall very easy to do.

1 tilt washer back
2 remove cover plate screw from front of drain filter access panel.
3 Remove cover plate and remove 2 more mounting screws .
4 go below washer and pull down sliding clip and move pump assembly back.
5 remove wires and 3 mounting screws around pump housing
6 Swap pump and re-attch wires

Hardest part of the job was getting the washer away from the wall. :)
Disconnect power & water
Remove top panel, two screws at back
Remove two screws holding valve to washer body
Use pliers to loosen and pull back spring clamps on three water tubes
Remove tubes by twisting and pulling
Reverse process to install new valve.

I am convinced that the original valve began leaking because I had heard water hammer for years as that valve opened and closed during operation. I bought two water hammer arrestors (less than $30) that attach inline with the inlet hoses and I think that will prevent the problem from recurring.