GCWW1069CD7 (ASSEELC) LG Washer - Instructions

followed video exactly and it worked perfectly

After watching the video for installation of the bellow, I followed the suggested repair method and was able to repair my washer.

It went great. First of all, thank you Part Select for the video on how to do this myself. My home warranty company was giving me a hard time. Blah, blah, blah. A mechanic friend of mine referred me to this site. Within minutes I found the part I need and a GREAT!!!! price. Ordered it, got it super fast, fixed it my self and my second hand washer is no longer peeing all over the floor. Very very happy. I will definitely be a repeat customer, hopefully not anytime soon.
Thank you again for an amazing experience.

the magnetic door plunger fell on the floor, would not stay in place and did not hold the door closed. Received a new on, put it in place. works just like it is supposed to. took all of 2 seconds. great service from
Partselect. got the new part in less than a week.

Thank you

Order the part through PartsSelect. It arrived in a few days and I (an 81 year old woman) replaced it within minutes with no help needed. It was super easy.

Line up the plunger with the existing slots in the door and push in.

NOTE: When testing it was evident that the magnet was not as strong as the original one. I would rate as one step up from useless.

Hardest part of the job was getting the washer away from the wall. :)
Disconnect power & water
Remove top panel, two screws at back
Remove two screws holding valve to washer body
Use pliers to loosen and pull back spring clamps on three water tubes
Remove tubes by twisting and pulling
Reverse process to install new valve.

I am convinced that the original valve began leaking because I had heard water hammer for years as that valve opened and closed during operation. I bought two water hammer arrestors (less than $30) that attach inline with the inlet hoses and I think that will prevent the problem from recurring.

Remove where the water pumps are and remove the one that was damaged easily

1. Unplugged electric chord from wall.
2. Pulled washer out into open area to get behind it.
3. Turned off hot and cold water faucets
4. Used channel locks to remove hot water and cold water hoses from back of washer. Dropping hose into a bucket to catch water from hose.
5. Removed screws (Phillips screw driver) holding top to back of washer.
6. Pulled back on the top and lifted off washer.
7. Arranged new intake valve to mock location and setting of old intake valve.
8. Using Phillip screw driver, unscrewed old intake valve from back of washer.
9. Unconnected wiring from old intake valve. These were easily identified and not needed to mark left right center.
10. Using pliers, pinched hose clips and moved to middle of the hose. Did this for all 3 hoses.
11. Removed hose from old intake and connected to same location on new intake. Repeated for all 3 hoses.
12. Using pliers, pinched the clips and moved to the end of the new intake valve. Did the for all 3 hoses.
13. Using Phillips screw driver, screwed in the new intake valve where the old intake valve was located.
15. Inserted the wiring connects into new intake valve.
16. Reconnected water hoses back into washer machine (after inspecting and cleaning plastic strainer traps)
17. Turned on water faucets
18. Plugged in washer.
19. Ran an empty load for a cycle.
20. Did not fail.
21. Reattached top to washer. Laying down an inch from front and push forward to hear a click or lock. Then screwed in the 2 screws.
22. Pushed washer back into original location.

We have already performed 1/2 dozen loads.

Followed instructions on YouTube link. Replaced the shock absorber and washer is working really well.

With my wife's help( 2 shoukder surgeries ), pulled it forward, unplugged power source, turned Both water supplies off.
Removed two phillip screws from each upper ( plastic) holder.
Bumped top from front( works really well if you can use both arms,and with rubber gloves on for traction, or go to harbor freight purchase a glass suction cup) .
I marked ( with a sharpie) the solenoids/hoses,and wires, ( facing front ,right to left,1,2,3.), removed plugs,loosened clamps and pushed them back,gave each hose a twist,and removed them.
Took two screws 5/16 from the back that hold the valve assembly in out.
Removed old valve assembly, put new in place, reverse procedure for assembly. Once all is hooked up,and water dried, I plugged in,turned water on watched for two cycles( you need not stand over it,if it leaks you will know it) to double check, installed top,and we pushed it back in place.
Very simple to do,these washing machines are so easy to work on.
Now we enjoy a dry laundry room,and you can to.
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Removed the front and rear covers ,the control panel , removed the shock absorber pins and shocks installed new shocks and reassembled

I removed the top of the washer, pried the front control panel off (pull a couple of electrical connecters or just rest it on something), separated the tub sleeve from the front panel and then removed the front panel (two screws). To remove the pump - just remove a couple of hoses, two wires and slide it out of the clip below. Reverse the process to install. A little daunting if you haven't done something like this before, but easily do-able once you get past your fears. A service call would cost much more than the $60.00 it took to get the part to my front door. This worked out really great - my wash smells fresh once again and my wife has moved on to the next project on her honey-do list!

I removed the tub. Thin included disassembling the washer and disconnecting various hoses electrical connectors to facilitate the removal of the tub from the machine.
Once removed, I separated the two halves of the tub and removed the metal basket to gain access to the bearings and seal.
Removal of the bearings was much harder than expected as they were very difficult to drive out of their pressed in mounting.
I finally was able to remove the bearings and fabricated a press using a piece of all thread and two steel plates to install the new bearings and seal.
I would not attempt to do this again with the proper bearing pullers and an official press to install the bearings gently without beating the tub housing.
This repair I feel is beyond the scope of your average DIY. The bearings can be damaged easily without the specialized tools to install the components.

The repair went good but time consuming. I replaced both inner and outer tub bearings along with the tub seal. I removed top by removing two screws in back then pulling back slighty then lifting up. I removed soap tray by pressing down tab and pulling out. Loosened soap dispenser and folded back on top. I removed control panel then front door panel. Remove back panel. Remove motor and shocks and hanging springs which there are two. Disconnect the hoses attached to tub then pull the tub. Remove screws holding the tub halves together. Use punch to remove bearings. NOTE: If you put the bearings in the freezer prior to installing, they go in much easier. I used the old bearing, set it on the new bearing then I tapped the old bearing so not to damage new bearings. I replaced the seal then put everything back together. Not difficult but time consuming.