GCWP1069CS1 (ABWEELC) LG Washer - Instructions

With my wife's help( 2 shoukder surgeries ), pulled it forward, unplugged power source, turned Both water supplies off.
Removed two phillip screws from each upper ( plastic) holder.
Bumped top from front( works really well if you can use both arms,and with rubber gloves on for traction, or go to harbor freight purchase a glass suction cup) .
I marked ( with a sharpie) the solenoids/hoses,and wires, ( facing front ,right to left,1,2,3.), removed plugs,loosened clamps and pushed them back,gave each hose a twist,and removed them.
Took two screws 5/16 from the back that hold the valve assembly in out.
Removed old valve assembly, put new in place, reverse procedure for assembly. Once all is hooked up,and water dried, I plugged in,turned water on watched for two cycles( you need not stand over it,if it leaks you will know it) to double check, installed top,and we pushed it back in place.
Very simple to do,these washing machines are so easy to work on.
Now we enjoy a dry laundry room,and you can to.
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When to utube typed in my problem, very easy fix

As per instructions.

Took off the old hose with a screwdriver and put the new one on. As simple as that. You don’t need a repair man to get this done, you can do it yourself and save money too.

After I watched the repair video for the part, it was a snap. It went exactly as the video described the steps. Hardest part was moving the washer to get behind it.

Followed video provided by this site. Very install, less than 30 minutes.

Replaced cold water inlet. Removed 4 water lines and 5 wires put new part in and reinstalled lines and wires

I followed the video on the PartSelect web site for this repair and it went just fine. I also replaced the drain hose while I had everything apart. Thank you PartSelect, same day shipping. Arrived within 3 day's and your video was spot on.

Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.

Followed the video instructions provided.

I BROUGHT UP THE YOUTUBE REPAIR VIDEO AND FOLLOWED IT STEP BY STEP AND WORKED OUT GREAT THANKS

Pull the washer away from the wall to get behind it. Unplug the electrical power cord from the wall. I removed the top cover by unscrewing the 2 screws on the back of the washer. Slide the cover back about 1-2 inches towards the back of the washer and then lift the cover up and remove. It might be a little tight to slide back, you may need to wiggle the cover side to side or give it a good smack. The water inlet valve is directly at the top inside of the washer. I saw a slow leak dripping from the hot water inlet valve onto the back side of the drum. Turn off the water supply valve at the wall and then unscrew the supply water hose from the water inlet valve at the back of the washer. Disconnect the electrical connector and water hose from the inlet valve inside the washer. From the outside of the washer on the back, remove the screws holding the water valve and lift out the valve. Install in reverse order.

Some screws, some clamps. Easy and straight forward. unplug machine, turn off water, disconnect water hose, unscrew top of machine (2 philips head screws), disconnect clamp from valve (use a towel for remaining water), disconnect wire, unscrew from place holder, remove entire valve, work backwards from there.

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phillips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.