GCWP1069CS1 (ABWEELC) LG Washer - Instructions

Replaced cold water inlet. Removed 4 water lines and 5 wires put new part in and reinstalled lines and wires

Looked at videos on line at Parts Select. Very easy instructions to watch and follow. After unplugging the washer all I had to do was turn off the cold water valve, remove the supply line, two screws to get the lid off, then two screws to remove the valve and disconnected the electric connector tabs. Took pliers to back the three hose clamps off. The best tip was replacing each hose back on the valve one at a time to prevent mix ups. I did everything in reverse after installation. I ran one short cycle to test the leak. Works perfectly!
A tip I saw on You Tube - I have vinyl flooring in my wash room and a repair guy said to spray a light shot of WD 40 under the feet. It doesn’t take much. Man, my washer slid like it was on wheels! I wiped away any excess spray and let it dry under the feet. I’m not sure how this works on other types of floors.

As per instructions.

Took off the old hose with a screwdriver and put the new one on. As simple as that. You don’t need a repair man to get this done, you can do it yourself and save money too.

It was giving me a code got on YouTube it gave the code after that bought a new pump and fix done

The repair went good but time consuming. I replaced both inner and outer tub bearings along with the tub seal. I removed top by removing two screws in back then pulling back slighty then lifting up. I removed soap tray by pressing down tab and pulling out. Loosened soap dispenser and folded back on top. I removed control panel then front door panel. Remove back panel. Remove motor and shocks and hanging springs which there are two. Disconnect the hoses attached to tub then pull the tub. Remove screws holding the tub halves together. Use punch to remove bearings. NOTE: If you put the bearings in the freezer prior to installing, they go in much easier. I used the old bearing, set it on the new bearing then I tapped the old bearing so not to damage new bearings. I replaced the seal then put everything back together. Not difficult but time consuming.

I took the washer completely apart and ordered any parts that looked worn and put it back together. It’s working like new and will last for a few years

I followed the video on the PartSelect web site for this repair and it went just fine. I also replaced the drain hose while I had everything apart. Thank you PartSelect, same day shipping. Arrived within 3 day's and your video was spot on.

Followed the video instructions provided.

Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.

I BROUGHT UP THE YOUTUBE REPAIR VIDEO AND FOLLOWED IT STEP BY STEP AND WORKED OUT GREAT THANKS

Some screws, some clamps. Easy and straight forward. unplug machine, turn off water, disconnect water hose, unscrew top of machine (2 philips head screws), disconnect clamp from valve (use a towel for remaining water), disconnect wire, unscrew from place holder, remove entire valve, work backwards from there.

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

Pull the washer away from the wall to get behind it. Unplug the electrical power cord from the wall. I removed the top cover by unscrewing the 2 screws on the back of the washer. Slide the cover back about 1-2 inches towards the back of the washer and then lift the cover up and remove. It might be a little tight to slide back, you may need to wiggle the cover side to side or give it a good smack. The water inlet valve is directly at the top inside of the washer. I saw a slow leak dripping from the hot water inlet valve onto the back side of the drum. Turn off the water supply valve at the wall and then unscrew the supply water hose from the water inlet valve at the back of the washer. Disconnect the electrical connector and water hose from the inlet valve inside the washer. From the outside of the washer on the back, remove the screws holding the water valve and lift out the valve. Install in reverse order.

Unplugged the washer,removed the rear cover, removed the old rotor assembly & installed the new rotor with thread lock on the retaining bolt.