KHWS02RMT3 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

remove 3 screws of top panel at rear. slide top to rear 1/2 inch and lift up. disconnect wire to flometer, remove clamps on hoses and remove, reverse to install. did not fix problem. ck'd screens at fill valves. ordered new fill valves--problem solved. solenoids must not have been opening up all the way.

I followed the repair blog by the poster most liked...

Somehow a bobby pin got into the drain pump housing. When it started to drain, the pin was rammed through the housing.Extremely easy to remove and replace. No special skills needed. Whirlpool did a good job in making it idiot proof. Unpacking the part took longer than installing it. Don't be afraid to do this repair. If you own a pair of pliers and a screwdriver,you can do it.

Disconnected 2 hoses and 1 screw and remove3d the old pump and reversed the proceedure to install the new pump.A piece of cake. Thanks

I read the instructions once and then started. It was easy but did take an hour to do the entire job.

I first had to take off the back and the top to get to the pulley and the belt. The pulley had woobled so much that it had worn out the center nad it would no longer hold to the post in the tub. It also had cut into the back of the tub about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I unscrewed the nut holding the pulley and removed it. I then took a knife and trimmed the rough edges off the back of the tub to make it smooth. I then smoothed out the end of the post that the pulley fits on so the new pulley would fit. I tightned the nut and put the belt on the motor drive shaft and Used a robo grip to hold the belt as I turned it onto the pulley. I but the back and top back on and that was it.

Serviceman had previously replaced the hot and cold inlet valves, but the low pressure error persisted. Rather than cough up another $130 for the serviceman to return, plus parts and time, I decided to order the replacement flowmeter from PartSelect.

Unplug power and turn off water. Top of machine comes off by removing three screws at top rear; use socket, spanner or T20 driver. Unplug electric sensor from flowmeter. Old unit is removed, and new one connected to water line by squeezing spring-clips with a pair of flat nose pliers. Reconnect electric sensor.

Great move, easy, and saved myself the thick end of $200.

I romoved the front of the washer access panel. I then used the pliers to remove the clamps from the old hose and to replaceit with the new one.

Secondary problem was bleach being siphoned from dispenser prematurely when drawer slid in. Replaced Drawer, Detergent Container and Bleach Siphon parts. Appears to have been a change in the siphon design when compared to the original factory part. 5 loads completed since replacement of these parts with no premature siphon of bleach or leakage down the front of the washer.

The repair was rather easy. It involved the removal of all the bolts around the glass door and only the bolts on the hinge conected to the washer itself. there was a bit of alignment problem when put back together, minor rubbing, but not much. The door now works close to as good as new.

After removing the Top Cover and back cover by removing the 3 screws for the top and 10 screws on the back cover to expose the interior of the machine. Remove the rubber hose that was attached to the bottom of pressure switch. Pushed gently upward on the pressure switch until it popped out. Gently press down on the 2 small tabs on the plug and then gently pull the plug out. Placed new pressure switch in place, plugged the connector back into the switch. Also doubled checked the hose to ensure that the tubing has not rubbed a hole it from rubbing on the concrete counter balance. If yes then remove the tube from the bottom of the washer and replace with approximately 2 feet of 3/16 inner diameter/1/4 outer diameter tubing. Attach the new tubing to the bottom of the washer port and the pressure switch. Attach the new tub to the water discharge hose using tie wraps or electrical tape to ensure not to occur again.

slid new baffle into place. No directions with new part, fortunately it was easy to figure out how baffle locked into place.

First and foremost, I usually call a real man to come do a job like this, but after reading the repair stories, I gave it a shot. Very, very easy. Pop of the bottom panel off (three torx screws), drain the water out of the tub (if any), and just follow the directions in the box. Anyone can do this one.

Pretty easy part replacing job. All screws were torx. Pry off plastic molding from front of machine where it covers the hinge with an old thin table knife or something, loosen the plastic molding inside the door, and replace the hinge. Minor hint... put the little round plastic molding back on the round part of the hinge BEFORE you screw the hinge onto the door.

First step was to remove old bellow. I opened the door there is a small wire with a spring attach that holds the outside of the bellow to thw washer. Then removed it from the water inlet, then took a short straight scewdriver to remove the gaint hose clamp holding it to the drum. Installed the new part. When putting hose clamp back on I removed the top of the washer by removing the three screws in the back then I flipped the hose clamp so I could use a long screwdiver from the top side.This will give you alot more room. Hope this helps