KAWE460WAL2 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

Removed old part; exchanged rubber plungers between the hot and cold. Symptoms still the same - so eliminated the need for new rubber plungers (even though they still needed to be replaced). The only item left were the magnetic switches opening and closing the flows. The syphon was replaced due to broken plastic mountings causing the syphon to hang into the drum. Repair was a snap and finding the parts on your site was very easy and parts were there within 2 days at standard shipping. Thank you.

First I removed hose from drain, next I loosened the clamp at the drain hose connection at the washer. Removed hose. Have rags/towels as there is some residual water that will spill out of the washer. Reinstall in reverse.

Unscrewed the two screws that hold the water lines to the valve. Unscrewed and lifted the control panel, popped the two spring clips that hold the back panel against the housing. Pulled the valve just outside the back panel. Took off the internal water line and moved it over to the new valve. Took off both hot and bold electric plugs and moved them to the new valve. With the old valve off, I sled the new valve into place and screwed it to the back panel. Put the spring tabs back on the back panel and screwed the back panel back together. Plugged it in, attached the water supply lines and tested it. Worked fine.

we looked at the video first then my husband fit the proble boy! was i excited! all the stores tried to get me to buy a new one. thanks partselets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I removed three bolts from the transmission and two clips that hold the motor to the drive gear. I replaced the brake cam that had cracked and the lining. Now it works great ! Ordered part on Friday before two and it came Saturday at four.

The reason it took as long as it did was because the job is not in line as the work I normally do.
It would be a fairly easy job for an experienced repairman. (Taking the back off the washer was time consuming for me) The rest of the job was easy as the part was a perfect fit.
I remember having a problem blending hot/cold water for some time. Most recently, while washing a load the water did not want to shut off. I can't remember how I diagnosed the water not shuting off as a problem along with the water temp control, but it is now repaired.
With the new valve installed, water temp select is now OK and the water now shuts off as normal.

1. unplug washer
2. move washer out from wall.
3. remove 4 screws that hold control panel; 2 screws on face and 2 screws an back
4. lift control panel to reach plug for lid switch
and unplug old switch
5. open lid and remove 2 screws that hold lid switch on top opening; remove nut that holds ground wire from lid switch
6. remove old lid switch
7. new lid switch needs to be modified to fit in position,i.e. break tube surrounding wires of lid switch to be 1/2 length.
8. plug in new switch at control panel
9. screw in lid switch at lid opening and reattach ground wire.
10. screw control panel in place

After taking the entire washer apart one time, we learned that we could take the top and front of the machine off only to repair it. I found Part-select online and with the model number locating the part was easy. It arrived within 3 days and with instructions I could easily replace the old part with a few tools. I spent dollars instead of hundreds for a new machine.

knob was replaced - then machine is now working. we had been told that the machine parts were not available due to the age of the machine. We were ready to buy a new machine when our daughter went on your website and found the part. What a savings!

First I removed the softener bin by pulling it up and off, then I removed the plastic seal by pulling it up and out, then I removed the 1/2 inch bolt with a ratchet and extension, then I removed the upper and lower agitator assembly from the machine and seperated the two by putting my feet on the lower agitator to hold it to the floor and pulling the upper agitator fast and firmly.
Sitting on top of the lower agitator I found the dog ear assembly. I pulled the dog ear assembly off and removed the yellow cap and existing dog ears.
Assembly was reverse.

Unplug power from wall.
Disconnected water lines
Tip Unit on it's side. (Recommend turning so motor is to the top side)
Disconnect Electrical connector and Hoses from the pump and motor.
Disconnect metal straps used to retain the motor to the transmission. (screwdriver to pry)
Remove old coupling pieces from transmission/motor(used a long screw driver, rock back and forth)
used air compressor to clean up electric motor
replace new coupling on motor and transmisison (may need hammer to tap into place)
set rubber bushing on transmission side (transmission shaft should be facing up at this point)
replace electric motor into place, making sure to line up bushing and motor mounts.
replace metal strap connectors between transmission / motor (this can be tricky, as the one in the back is hard to get at.)
replace electrical connectors and hoses
connect washing machine power and water and test

Removed capscrew in end of agitator shaft took cover off machine-[ unscrewed two screws holding down control panel, hinged back, pryed retaining clips out, rocked back machine cover.]
Removed motor mounting clips and pump hoses, swinging motor and pump out of the way. Removed 3 capscrews holding transmission, pulled transmission towards me removing agitator shaft, disassembled clutch assembly - removing one cirlip then another, installed new clucth parts in same order

Disconnet the washer from supply lines. pull washer out, tip on side. Remove water hoses from pump, have to squeeze hose clamps with pliers and slide them down the hose. Then remove the hoses from the pump. Then locate spring retainers that hold pump to drive motor, place flat blade screw driver under each clip and pry clip loose, then remove pump.
Install new pump on shaft, making sure that alignment dowels line up with holes on pump. Hold pump in place and using finger push retainer clips over lip of pump, install hoses on pump, install hose clamps. Hook washer up to supply lines, drain lines, plug in and you'r done.

I pulled back off machine. A real pain. Not something you have to do although once the back is off, the whole cabinet just lifts off. Idealy: Remove agitator and reatiner clip, lay washer on it's side or face, Remove electrical connector form motor, remove two hoses from pump, (motor can be remove easily from transmission if desired. It's lighter), remove three 1/2" bolts, lift transmission w/clutch assembly out. Pay attention to orientation of flat washer and clip (remove). The cluch band is indside the silver cover. Pich together with pliers to relieve tension and lift out. There are three while pads that wear away and glaze over when they get too hot from slipping. Reassemble. Ths is from memory so I hope I didn't forget anything. Time to do it this way would probably only be 45 minutes.

I didn't think this would be particularly difficult but it was easier than I expected.

UNPLUG THE MACHINE

Remove the two screws (one on the right , one on the left) That allows the control panel to swing up.

Lift the panel up.
There is a plastic wiring connector that is secured in the top of the washer housing. Press the sides of the top of the connector and remove the top connector. (The bottom part of the connector will still be secured to the housing)

There will be two clamps one on the right side under the control panel, and one on the right.
Use a screwdriver to pop out these clamps. This is where I used the washcloth to place between the screwdriver and the washing machine body to avoid scratching the surface.

Once you pop out these clamps, the housing is free from the tub frame.
Twist the housing just a little and tilt it forward. IT will just slide off the frame.
You can now take the housing wherever you want to more easily get to the switch. It is mounted in the housing.
Take a good look at the way the switch is mounted and the wiring tube is secured because you will need to at least have an idea how to put it back into place.

There will be two clips that hold the wiring tube in place. One on the side and one on the top. Use a screwdriver (and the washcloth if necessary) to loosen and remove the clips.

There are two screws that hold the switch to the housing. Remove these and keep the screws. You will need them to attach the new switch.

Now the only thing keeping you from removing the switch is the connector which you saw earlier before removing the housing. Squeeze the sides of the clip and free it from the housing.

Mount the new switch into the housing and route the wiring. You may have to use a small pair of pliers to squeeze the clips back together to hold the wiring tube to the housing.
Attach the green ground wire to the housing frame just like the one you removed to get the wring tube off the housing.

Push the connector end through the hole designed for it until it snaps into place.

Replacing the Housing back on the frame:
Let the housing all the way down, and slide the front lip of the housing UNDER the front brace of the tub frame.
Carefully let the housing lower onto the side rails (the housing will go on TOP of the side rails).
You may have to gently twist the housing to let it fall into the proper place.
Take the clips and secure the housing back to the tub frame.
These just POP back into place with applied pressure.
Re-connect the lid switch to the control panel wiring connector.
Swing the control panel back down into place and replace the screws on the left and right sides.

PLUG IN THE MACHINE

Viola!! You are ready to perform your favorite laundry task.(Yeah RIGHT!!) Or just yell "HONEY the washing machine is ready for you." Anyway, after the swelling in your eyes go down you will see that your washer is ready to use.

This took me about 40 minutes but some of that time was spent understanding just what to do. With these instructions, you may be able to do it in 30 minutes.

I hope this helps you. Kudos to the Whirlpool Engineers who made this machine easy to work on. This is the 3rd repair I have done on mine. (Rebuilt the agitator drive and replaced the timer) For 18 years of use.. that ain't bad. I think it is good for another 5 years at least. Total cost for this repair: Part=$37, Shipping=$7, Time spent=40 minutes. Not bad considering a serviceman is going to charge $90 labor for the first hour plus parts.