KHWS02RMT0 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

1) Removed back of washer
2) Removed nut holding pulley
3) Pulled pulley off shaft
4) Put new pulley on shaft
5) Replaced and tightened nut
6) Replaced belt on pulley
7) Replaced back panel
7) Washed pile of laundry

Very simple repair:
- Turn off water and detach water supply hoses. (Good to have a bucket nearby to catch water left in hoses.)
- Remove 3 screws from the back of the lid; slide lid back 1" and lift off.
- Valve is mounted just under the lid on the back wall of the washer -- remove 1 screw from back of washer that holds valve assembly in place.
- Remove the 4 electrical connectors (2 black & 2 white) I numbered them with a sharpie so I wouldn't forget how to reattach them. :-)
- Use pliers to squeeze & slide the little hose clamp that holds the internal hose on the valve assembly. Once the clamp is out of the way, pull the hose off the valve assembly.
- Reverse the process to install the new valve assembly.

I ran into a little problem mounting the new valve assembly. The screw hole in the back of the washer did not line up with the mounting hole in the valve assembly. I had to drill a 3/16" hole just to the right of the original screw hole on the back of the washer. Used the new hole to mount the valve assembly, done.

It took a few minutes to realize that the part slide into place instead of snapping in. In order to get the part to slide into place i put my head in the washer to hold the drum in place then with both hands slide the part into place.

remove 3 screws of top panel at rear. slide top to rear 1/2 inch and lift up. disconnect wire to flometer, remove clamps on hoses and remove, reverse to install. did not fix problem. ck'd screens at fill valves. ordered new fill valves--problem solved. solenoids must not have been opening up all the way.

I followed the repair blog by the poster most liked...

Somehow a bobby pin got into the drain pump housing. When it started to drain, the pin was rammed through the housing.Extremely easy to remove and replace. No special skills needed. Whirlpool did a good job in making it idiot proof. Unpacking the part took longer than installing it. Don't be afraid to do this repair. If you own a pair of pliers and a screwdriver,you can do it.

Disconnected 2 hoses and 1 screw and remove3d the old pump and reversed the proceedure to install the new pump.A piece of cake. Thanks

I read the instructions once and then started. It was easy but did take an hour to do the entire job.

I first had to take off the back and the top to get to the pulley and the belt. The pulley had woobled so much that it had worn out the center nad it would no longer hold to the post in the tub. It also had cut into the back of the tub about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I unscrewed the nut holding the pulley and removed it. I then took a knife and trimmed the rough edges off the back of the tub to make it smooth. I then smoothed out the end of the post that the pulley fits on so the new pulley would fit. I tightned the nut and put the belt on the motor drive shaft and Used a robo grip to hold the belt as I turned it onto the pulley. I but the back and top back on and that was it.

This washer had been faulting since it was 1 year old but it only happened 1 to 2 times a year. As the fault problem became more often, I realized it was a hardware or computer malfunction. But what was the problem? Well the problem always was a faulty flow meter. I replace the valve and the flow meter. But I tested the flow meter several times.-- I replaced the flow meter and the valve. And for once in 5 years it did not fault.

Serviceman had previously replaced the hot and cold inlet valves, but the low pressure error persisted. Rather than cough up another $130 for the serviceman to return, plus parts and time, I decided to order the replacement flowmeter from PartSelect.

Unplug power and turn off water. Top of machine comes off by removing three screws at top rear; use socket, spanner or T20 driver. Unplug electric sensor from flowmeter. Old unit is removed, and new one connected to water line by squeezing spring-clips with a pair of flat nose pliers. Reconnect electric sensor.

Great move, easy, and saved myself the thick end of $200.

Secondary problem was bleach being siphoned from dispenser prematurely when drawer slid in. Replaced Drawer, Detergent Container and Bleach Siphon parts. Appears to have been a change in the siphon design when compared to the original factory part. 5 loads completed since replacement of these parts with no premature siphon of bleach or leakage down the front of the washer.

I romoved the front of the washer access panel. I then used the pliers to remove the clamps from the old hose and to replaceit with the new one.

The repair was rather easy. It involved the removal of all the bolts around the glass door and only the bolts on the hinge conected to the washer itself. there was a bit of alignment problem when put back together, minor rubbing, but not much. The door now works close to as good as new.

After removing the Top Cover and back cover by removing the 3 screws for the top and 10 screws on the back cover to expose the interior of the machine. Remove the rubber hose that was attached to the bottom of pressure switch. Pushed gently upward on the pressure switch until it popped out. Gently press down on the 2 small tabs on the plug and then gently pull the plug out. Placed new pressure switch in place, plugged the connector back into the switch. Also doubled checked the hose to ensure that the tubing has not rubbed a hole it from rubbing on the concrete counter balance. If yes then remove the tube from the bottom of the washer and replace with approximately 2 feet of 3/16 inner diameter/1/4 outer diameter tubing. Attach the new tubing to the bottom of the washer port and the pressure switch. Attach the new tub to the water discharge hose using tie wraps or electrical tape to ensure not to occur again.