11023034101 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I followed the provided video for changing the centerpost gasket.

I successfully completed the repair. I will say that I had challenges at almost every step. Getting the inner basket off the centerpost was difficult, as was rocking the outer tub upward from the base.

If a man is somewhat handy, this is a doable repair. Be patient and take your time. The video is very helpful and I don't think I could've done the repair without it. It's a pleasure to watch an expert like Steve.

It's gratifying to successfully repair a major appliance such as a washing machine and I look forward to many more years of reliable service from this well-built appliance.

Disassembled lower part found nothing wrong.
Started disassembly from the top. Immediately ran into trouble not knowing exactly how the tub was anchored to the drive. Once I got down to the tube and drive block there was nothing I could do to go further. I guessed it was a press fit onto the drive, but there were many instructions and I couldn't be sure. Parts Select expanded drawing was the most useful tool; it was correct omitting a few details. Anyhow, cleaning out my garage I found one of my old gear pullers that I could ring to complete the disassembly. All the sudden I was in business, pulling the washer drum off the drive block and shaft, getting down to the leaky lower seal. A that point it was just a matter of cleaning everything up and buying all the rusted out parts to reassemble. I spent $150-200 on parts, but its completely rebuilt now and runs like a charm. Probably have around 20-50 hours all told, into the repair. Most of this was reading instructions, watching videos, and trying to figure out the rest (3). Doing the actual work spread over time until my wife and sons threatened to throw the thing out. Never. Once I decide I'm gonna do something, I do it. LOL!

First I screamed at the ceiling, because I have a three year old and an infant, and the washing machine was dead. Then I went to youtube. It seemed like the "agitator dogs" were the issue.

In this spirit of any repair, I replaced them, and it was not the issue. I don't know what I expected.

Ceiling. YouTube. Pacing.

Then I figured it was this part - the motor coupling. I unplugged the machine and took out the drain tube. I leaned the machine back and propped it up with an empty detergent bottle, because those were abundant. Ratchet off a few bolts and the motor comes out. The coupling was indeed broken. The new one slips right in - I tapped it a few times with a mallet for good measure / vengeance. Ratcheted the bolts back on and tipped it back up.

Pros: Washer works now.
Cons: Everest-esque laundry pile to address.

But hey, it worked! I am no handyman and it wasn't too bad at all. Half hour tops.

Put new one on work good, but now can't pump no more .the problem now is the spin cycal broke and I not going to fix it. Thank for the part work good.

I removed the cover for the softener dispenser on the top of the agitator. Then reached in and removed the cover of the nut and washer which was very sticky and sealed with an o-ring. This took a bit of pressure. Then used a socket wrench with an extension to loosen the bolt and took the whole agitator out of the machine. Then I set the agitator on the floor and with a fine 12 inch long screw driver released the catches while turning and pulling the agitatior with my other hand and holding the lower agitatior on the floor with my feet. I then turned the upper part over and removed the cogs and holding mechanism.
Then I reversed the process after replacing the cogs with the new part. 25 minutes total.

Installed part, now it works great!

Too simple. The old one practicaly fell off and all I had to do was push the new one into place. It locked itself in and was ready to use.

No more rattling or noise when it runs now.

First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws.
Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all
Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.

I could not make the repair. If you get the pump specified on the shaft that drives the pump, the pump will be broken. I tried to call, nobody answers the phone. I ended up buying a Washing Machine and I'm stuck with a pump I cannot use.

We had to take the motor out and remove the coupling, when putting it back together we had some problems because the washer was on its side and the lid was open. After putting the motor and coupling back together we tried to turn it on, unknowing to us the lid was open so nothing would happen, finally we realized the lid was open. The actual repair was not complicated, just human error made it seem than way

Disconneted hoses,unplugged.removed drain hose.Turned unit on its side.Unsnapped retainers,tryed to to pull off with just my hands,that didn't work.Used a pry bar to pop off.The end of the shaft was rusted out.I took a dremel with wire brush and cleaned up the end.Then the pump njust slid on.I took it off again and applied some anti-sieze on the end of shaft.then put pump back on.Snapped the retainers and put hoses back on.It was easy.When I first looked up washer parts,I found this other site and the price ws doulbe.Then I found you guys ,1/2 the cost and it was here in 2 days.Thank You Parts select.

leaned washer back on wall at or more than 45degree undid two screws off of motor. pulled old part off put new on reinstalled motor Done

After moving washer and UN-Plugging electrical. 1. Remove the 2 screws that hold the Control Panel to the lower chassis. 2. Lift the Control Panel up and forward to expose the water level switch. 3. Remove the dial. 4. Remove the old switch, (a plastic tab locks it into the panel, try to release it(from the front) with a small screwdriver, (mine broke off, releasing the switch). 5. Remove the electrical connection by lifting the connection locking tab. 6. Remove the air tube. 7. BLOW into the air tube to ensure it is not blocked. 8 . Reconnect the air tube and electrical connection. 9. Carefully install the new switch into place, turning it to line up and lock the tab into the panel. 10. Re-install the dial and return the Control Panel screws into the lower chassis. NOTE: If the included air hose needs to be replaced, the time and difficulty needed to make repairs will increase.

Tipped the washer onto it's side, used pliers to loosen clamps on old hose. Removed outer drain hose from white plastic hose adapter on back of washer. Removed white hose adapter (snaps out of place) and old hose. Fed new hose through opening for white adapter, then snapped new adapter into place on back of machine. Put the new hose in place and replaced clamps. Sat washer back upright. No more leaking! It was easy and didn't take more than 15-20 minutes.

The hardest part was removing the machine's cabinet. 2 screws on either end of the control panel, tip the control panel back out of the way and remove 2 clips, then slide the cabinet off the front. Replacing the valve was very easy. I didn't need the mounting plate that came with it. At first it looked like the screw hole wasn't going to line up with the hole in the back of the machine, but then I noticed that the valve had a groove that allowed it to slide downward on to the back. Pretty easy overall.