11022442511 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

remove basket and replace drive hub kit

Tip the washer on its back remove the agitator install new one under 15 minutes

Trying to follow the instructions according to the video was easy enough until the part where I had to remove the control panel for access to the screws holding the inlet valve. I don't have a putty knife, so I had a bit of trouble trying to remove the panel. I found another way. There are screws on the left and right sides which hold the control panel to the side pieces holding it to the body. If you remove the screws and use a pick or flathead screwdriver to carefully pull up on the tabs below the screws while gently pulling the control panel away, it will easily pop off with a rotational movement. The panel is centered into its location via two plastic pins molded into the side panels, so be aware of them and try to avoid breaking them. They'll help you get the panel properly positioned during reassembly, which is simple. You'll see all this easily if you take the time and look. Don't be in a rush. To reassemble, line up the panel with the plastic pins and rotate it into position. The tabs slide easily into position and lock the panel into place. Just don't forget to reinstall the screws. Removing the panel in this manner added a bit of time to the repair, but not a lot. It's still a fast repair overall. Everything else was exactly like in the video. Well, almost. I had no difficulty whatsoever with sliding the new valve into place. But once the job was done the sounds coming from the washer during the filling stages ceased. Turns out the screens in the inlet valve were getting stopped up with lime.

I just drained the washer and unscrewed the 3 screws unhooked the hose clamp and installed the new one attached the hose and hose clip. Really easy. Took longer to try up water in floor than installing.

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.

Took the Cover off and installed belt.

I figured out through the process of elimination that the problem was the rubber plunger that the solenoid opens and closes. I couldn’t fix just the plunger so I replaced the whole water inlet valve and the cold water worked perfectly after that. Even though it was a little tough to diagnose the problem it was very easy to replace the part once I found out what it was that was wrong.

Spin indicator light was illuminated but machine was repeating rinse cycle rather than spinning water out of clothes. Replaced the pulley and drive coupler, thinking there was a mechanical problem. Video instructions were great but old pulley and drive coupler looked perfect so replacing them did nothing. Next I replaced the washer actuator (shifter), thinking that was the reason for no high speed spin. Easy job, as shown in the video, but it also did nothing. The problem turned out to be a failure in the control panel, probably resulting from years of vibration. Decided to stop chasing my tail and bought a new washer.

1. Unplugged the electrical cord
2. Unscrewed the plastic guard
3. Unscrewed the actuator screws
4 Unplugged the cord.
5. Replaced the olld one with the new one and reversed the order
6. Uprighted the machine
7 Performed trail run with vinegar

very easy to repair , instructions very clear , parts person very good to talk to, parts got here fast

Remove power and hoses. Remove five 1/4” hex head screws on back plate. Top control panel can be removed by inserting putty knife into front right and left corners of control panel. Push with enough force while lifting corners. Clips are metal so you won’t break them. Lay the control panel toward washer lid.
Two screws hold the water inlet in place but remove cables from inlet valves and the cable in the middle which has a temperature sensing thermistor. Once the 2 screws are removed you can manipulate the assembly out of its slot. After new assembly installed with cables reconnected and screws in place align the plastic control panel tabs back in that are at the rear of the top before snapping the control panel back into position.

I had already viewed the repair video provided and felt that I could do this repair. I followed the directions from the video. There was a lot of disassembly to get the gear case off, but none of it was especially difficult. I took my time and made sure each part went back like it was supposed to. I did decide to replace the suspension rods also, but that job went according to the video. Overall it was a good experience. This site is a great company.

Replaced hinge switch. Still no spin cycle. Noticed hinge bearing cracked & if hinge forced into switch, spin activated. Ordered new hinge bearings.Spin cycle still didn't engage. On further examination, observed that hinge was bent. Straightened hinge & worked like a charm. Didn't really need new switch or bearings. NOTE : Avoid having washer door bang shut.Took longer than expected, but each procedure was simple.

After changing the cogs, inner-auger clutch assembly, retaining bolt and drive belt, the washer will still not agitate. Any suggestions??

Having been out of the business for quite a few years I thought that I was dealing with a direct drive machine. Thinking that it was the motor coupler. I removed the control panel and attempted to pull the cabinet froward. Not so, it had a solid cabinet, so I tilted the machine against the wall and looked under the washer finding the driven Transmission pulley loose on the shaft. The splines on the pulley were pretty well worn but I tightened the nut and it worked okay. But I ordered a pulley and replaced after it's arrival. The motor capacitor also broke it's mount off so I had to rehang it with zip ties and repaired the wires to the Capacitor, (Which BTW had about 22 gauge wire). I found it hard to believe that they would use such small wire.