79641282310 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

First unplug the machine. Turn the water off to the hoses. Remove the hoses from the machine to make it easier. Remove the screws from the back of the top cover. Pry the front sides with a screwdriver and lift. Standing behind the machine on the left side you’ll see the three solenoids or inlet assembly. Remove the two screws so as to take the inlet assembly out. There are hoses attached to the assembly.

The repairs went great thanks to the videos and Steve.

Simply inserted new plunger/magnet back into door with thumb&finger until you hear the little locking tabs click. No tools required.

Removed top panal found broken parts and pieces, replaced spring and plastic spring holder. Straightened out and reattached drum front boot.

Took front of machine off to access 2 shocks, put back together then removed panel in back to access third shock, watched YouTube video first so things went smooth

you tube it , not to hard to install

Disassembled washer, replaced bearings, seals and gasket. Watched instructional video to familiarize myself with the repair. Followed all steps as recommended, repair was straight forward without any surprises. Hardest part was removing the drum from the machine, somewhat heavy. Disassembled and replaced all bearings, seals, spider and gasket. Reinstalled in reverse order. Note: Upon tear down, I found the seal was pushed out, causing the bearing failure. I also found that the seal was installed incorrectly from LG. They have the seal lip facing the bearings, should be facing the water. This repair seems to be difficult, but was fairly self explanatory. All plug ins are color coded, all hoses are accessible with little effort. If you have basic skills you should be able to handle this repair.

Followed this video
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MNp1hzlcF1g
The video was very good. Watch, stop, follow steps when doing the disassembly

I youtube searched this problem and found a video from partselect. I watched the video, purchased the part, and followed the video instruction step by step to repair the washer. Part with tax and shipping was $52.

I ordered the Rotor Assembly and Sensor Assy..
Rotor Assy. was not the problem.
1 - 17mm bolt in the center of the rotor assy.
6 10mm bolts to take off the Stator assy.
once you have the Stator assy off, upplug the sensor assy and release the clips on the sensor assy. and remove.
Install the new sensor assy. and plug the electrical connection back in.
replace the 6 bolts and screw the bolts evenly around the Stator.
replace the Rotor Assy. and secure the 17mm bolt.
Replace the back cover (4 - philips screws.
Do a test load.

YouTube is your friend for many such repairs. See this link for an overall description:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuvLuC8x4_s

I had to remove the top panel to determine exactly which valve was leaking. It turned out both hot and cold-water valves were defective.

After unit is unplugged and top is removed, it's a simple matter to remove/replace hose connections and electrical connections. It took me less than an hour to complete the task once parts were in hand.

Again, YouTube is your friend for such repairs.

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.

2 hose clamps and a hose, easy! This would be a very common cause of leaks in washers due to all the movement inside.

Removed items step by step in sequence as per video to get to baskets . Knocked out bearings and gasket seal. Replaced new parts and in reverse reassembled as per video. Very difficult without video to follow. My bearings were easy to remove but some are frozen in so will need oil ,bars or pipe to fit opening to drive out old bearings. Use camera and notes of sequence to aid in reinstall. Separate and mark fasteners as removed. Note : Was initially told by appl Insurance service person my bearings were bad because when attempting to spin a noise was heard and this not covered by plan ,but I found the motor position sensor had failed by testing it with multimeter which is a low priced part and easily accessable from back. Water hose screens partially clogged also. Canceled Appl service contract.

Removing the tub from the bearings was difficult, use penetrating oil, and have someone wail on the drum shaft (bolt inserted). The toughest part was getting the old bearings out of the drum. You spend a bunch of effort to wail on a punch that is trying to push on a bearing. Felt like I was gonna ruin the tub half. Putting the new ones in also felt overly difficult but, that is how bearings go. The teardown and rebuild was easy and kind of fun.