11028102310 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Followed video from you tube. Man made it look very easy. Not! Hole that lock has to come through in back was very tricky. Also, DO NOT THROW OUT OLD PART UNTIL NEW ONE IS INSTALLED. The reason for that is there is a CLIP at the end of the old part that is needed to attach new part to wire section in control panel. NO WHERE is it mentioned at you got the clip from the old part. Luckily we saved it. Without that clip, you are screwed.

Dismantled washer lid to install new locking mechanism.

Replaced water inlet valve. Parts select video was incorrect for my unit. There are no spring clips to be released using a putty knife. Rather remove the two screws in the back of the top, pull the top forward and up to get at hose connections to the valve. Hint, place a towel under the valve connections because after removed from the valve, the hoses will leak to the floor. I propped the top up with a stick. All the other stuff in the video is good. Unplug and turn water off, remove connectors from old valve etc. . I also removed the protective plate over the cabled that runs between the washer and the control panel located on the back of the washer. The will make the sliding of the top forward easier. Only one screw involved.

My problem stemmed from a previous leaky bleach dispenser hose (repaired over a year ago). It had leaked just above suspension rod assembly (only 1 of 4 was effected).Rod had rusted to point where it snapped just below the top mount. This actually made the replacement very easy as the rod simply slid out of the bottom tub channel and onto floor when washer tilted 45 degrees. Before tilting washer, unplug washer and disconnect supply lines and drain hos Use pry bar to separate cabinet top from cabinet lower section. Tilt top section to grant accesses to top suspension rod retainer mounts. Remove black rubber retainer washer from new suspension rod. As assistant holds tilted washer, a new suspension rod can be pushed thru bottom tub channel. Place black rubber washer back onto suspension rod. This will prevent the new rod from sliding full back out tub channel when released. The purchased suspension item has four rods and four top retainers. I could have reused the old retainer, but would have been more difficult to release the remaining rusted rod bit. So pulling up on rod and twisting suspension rod such that rod hook end pass thru top cabinet retainer cup and slides into position on new rod hook end retainer. Release retainer and rod, and move tub side to side allowing retain to assume natural position. (reference the other 3 retainers). Realign mating surfaces of cabinet top and cabinet lower if needed. Close cabinet top onto cabinet lower. Connect supply lines and drain hose, Plug unit in. Repair complete.

The inlet/diverter valve relacement steps:
1. Turn off electric and water supply and disconnect hoses
2. Remove hold down screws on back of control console
-Remove console to access valve and remove valve hold down screws
3. Label and disconnect valve connections
4. Insert putty knife 3 in. from each front edge to release hold down clips for top panel.
5. Disconnect hoses from valve assembly.
6. Remove old valve and install new.

Follow step by step YouTube channel for this.

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.

I removed the two hinges in the lid by unscrewing them from the lid and sliding them out from the underside of the lid. I also needed to replace the hinge assembly in the washer body on the left side. I unscrewed the three screws in the back of the controls module and lifted the cover off. I unscrewed the furthest forward and left screw that went down to the hinge assembly. I then removed the trim ring around the bleach pour spout and unclipped the bleach hopper from the lid. Next I unlatched the lid assembly with a metal putty knife. Once inside I moved the bleach hopper out of the way and gained access to the left side hinge assembly. I removed the other screw holding the hinge in place and changed out the hinge assembly. I then worked backwards putting screws and pieces back in place. Finally, I installed new door hinge pins in the left and right sides to reattach the lid.

The most difficult was to lift the top up. Releasing the clips was tough to push in and it broke some porcelain. The 3 screws on the plastic instrument cover was all that was required. Track the wires and remove the plug in and pull the wires through the access hole and misc clips, a Phillips screw driver removes the plastic switch .Simply place the new switch under the lid and the worst is done. Once the lid was up, 10 minutes and your done.

This was the second time I did this repair, so it looks like this mechanism lasts about 3 years. I found the video instructions on your website very helpful, with one major exception. On my Maytag Bravos XL machine, there are no clips on the front of the top plate to release by pushing in a putty knife. Rather, there are two vertical brackets on the back of the top plate that are loosened or removed, and then the top can be slid forward about an inch and lifted up.

Also, the tiny electrical connection plugs are secured by plastic clips on the sides of the receptacles. Those clips just need to be spread apart a little in order to unplug the connectors; i.e., don't pull too hard on those plugs, or look for a release lever on the plugs themselves.

Repair is straight-forward. Thanks!

The washer would enter the spin cycle, but after starting to spin, would quit, and beep repeatedly. The fault code shown was DL. The manual cited DL as Door Lock malfunction. A check of the door lock switch suggested an internal problem. Sears offered the part at a far greater price, and shipping was several times more than PartSelect.com. PartSelect was chosen, and the part ordered on-line. Within two days the part arrived. Installation was simply a matter of lifting the top of the unit on which the door is supported. IT is done by inserting a narrow screwdriver into the separation, and pressing on the two metal springs holding the top in place. The old part was simple to remove by extracting two phillips head screws and removing the cable from the cable mounts underneath the top surface then threading the cable and plug back through the cable hole. Before that could be completed, the rear cover of the control panel was also removed, and after the plug of the defective switch was removed, the new cable was connected, and threaded back through in the reverse of the removal of the old switch, the phillips head screws, the control panel rear cover and returning the unit top to the resting position and snappin it into place. The Power ON check indicated that the problem fault code was cleared. The unit functions normally with the new switch. Hats off to PartSelect. The part was available in stock, and shipped promptly, and at substantially less cost than Sears.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Removed broken hinge, replaced with new.

Went to youtube.com and watched the video that took you step by step in replacing the lid lock assembly.