11025132411 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

My fault completely! I shut a valve off to a spicket that I have in my garage due to a Nebraska winter. The problem turned out to be that my washer was receiving its cold water from the line that I shut off. So it was an expensive lesson to learn after replacing the switch harness and the latch. Water was turned off Ding Dong!

Removed two 1/4” screws from the backside of control panel. Plastic putty knife slide under front of control panel to release the clips and allowing panel removal. Shut water supply off and removed both hot/cold hoses from valves. Removed the two T-20 screws which allowed the removal of the existing leaking valve assembly. Installed in reverse and it worked perfectly!!

Was the video and I started everything fell into place. Thank you very much

First, this is the second time the transmission actuator went bad. The first-time washer was still under warrenty and I watched the tech replace it. This time warranty has expired and I'm mechanically inclined, so I ordered the part. Replacing was easy, unplug, tip washer up so you can get under it, remove plastic guard (two hex nuts) and remove actuator by removing two screws. Reverse procedure to install new actuator. The only caution I will say is when tipping washer if you have a wall to lean it against, perfect, just put something under it for saftey so it can't fall on you.

Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.

Once we put the washer on it's side noticed lots of oil on the floor and in the belt cover area. Replaced belt anyway but issue is the leaking transmission. Starting warranty process since Maytag carries a 10-year part warranty and machine is 6.5 years old. Wish me luck !!!

I watched the video and for the most part the first part of the repair went well. I carefully stored the screws, but despite what the video suggested the part did NOT just slide out. Upon further inspection I discovered two small screws in the top of the valve housing affixing it to the machine. Since it was to narrow an are to use a driver I was forced to remove the housing that holds the timer, which involved removing the knob and a small screw. On each side of the housing was a metal clip and true to form I was able to loosen one side but the other the clip launched into orbit. After a thorough inspection of the floor I found said clip. I was then able to remove the housing and loosen the two screws. Of interest is the fact that the new part had molded places for screws different that the video. After that replacing everything went smoothly and I was able to hook up the washer as the repair was successful.

I turned off and disconnected the water lines (have a bucket ready) and tipped the washer on its back. I followed along with the provided video that was super helpful. Disconnecting, moving the washer, and reconnecting everything took longer than the repair. Very satisfied with this repair!

Removed two screws to remove guard. Two screws to remove another part with wires. Pulley nut was already missing. Component was twist locking tabs.

Removed old one (2 screws) slid in place and screwed in.

I took the motor, splutch, belt, and capacitor off. Took out agitating plate and removed tub from washer. Took old transmission out and put new in. Reassembling the washer. Followed video instructions from parts select. Easy peasy. Washer runs like new.

Part fixed it perfectly.

We replaced the gear casing, actuator, splutch and belt, but the grinding continued. It continued with the tub out, with a different motor, we basically rebuilt the internals of the washer, but still it grinds. Everything was recalibrated. No noise when you hand turn the shaft, or motor. Only the splutch when the actuator switch is disengaged and in the spin cycle. It is washing fine, but very loud.

Trying to follow the instructions according to the video was easy enough until the part where I had to remove the control panel for access to the screws holding the inlet valve. I don't have a putty knife, so I had a bit of trouble trying to remove the panel. I found another way. There are screws on the left and right sides which hold the control panel to the side pieces holding it to the body. If you remove the screws and use a pick or flathead screwdriver to carefully pull up on the tabs below the screws while gently pulling the control panel away, it will easily pop off with a rotational movement. The panel is centered into its location via two plastic pins molded into the side panels, so be aware of them and try to avoid breaking them. They'll help you get the panel properly positioned during reassembly, which is simple. You'll see all this easily if you take the time and look. Don't be in a rush. To reassemble, line up the panel with the plastic pins and rotate it into position. The tabs slide easily into position and lock the panel into place. Just don't forget to reinstall the screws. Removing the panel in this manner added a bit of time to the repair, but not a lot. It's still a fast repair overall. Everything else was exactly like in the video. Well, almost. I had no difficulty whatsoever with sliding the new valve into place. But once the job was done the sounds coming from the washer during the filling stages ceased. Turns out the screens in the inlet valve were getting stopped up with lime.

Tip the washer on its back remove the agitator install new one under 15 minutes