11020222510 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Was the video and I started everything fell into place. Thank you very much

I watched the instructions on line, and followed them. Completed the parts change with out any problems, but that wasn't everything I had to do to make the washer to work again. I had to clear all the fault codes that were on the machine. Then the washer started working in all the cycles.

My fault completely! I shut a valve off to a spicket that I have in my garage due to a Nebraska winter. The problem turned out to be that my washer was receiving its cold water from the line that I shut off. So it was an expensive lesson to learn after replacing the switch harness and the latch. Water was turned off Ding Dong!

Removed two 1/4” screws from the backside of control panel. Plastic putty knife slide under front of control panel to release the clips and allowing panel removal. Shut water supply off and removed both hot/cold hoses from valves. Removed the two T-20 screws which allowed the removal of the existing leaking valve assembly. Installed in reverse and it worked perfectly!!

Removed old one (2 screws) slid in place and screwed in.

I watched the video and for the most part the first part of the repair went well. I carefully stored the screws, but despite what the video suggested the part did NOT just slide out. Upon further inspection I discovered two small screws in the top of the valve housing affixing it to the machine. Since it was to narrow an are to use a driver I was forced to remove the housing that holds the timer, which involved removing the knob and a small screw. On each side of the housing was a metal clip and true to form I was able to loosen one side but the other the clip launched into orbit. After a thorough inspection of the floor I found said clip. I was then able to remove the housing and loosen the two screws. Of interest is the fact that the new part had molded places for screws different that the video. After that replacing everything went smoothly and I was able to hook up the washer as the repair was successful.

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.

Part fixed it perfectly.

Trying to follow the instructions according to the video was easy enough until the part where I had to remove the control panel for access to the screws holding the inlet valve. I don't have a putty knife, so I had a bit of trouble trying to remove the panel. I found another way. There are screws on the left and right sides which hold the control panel to the side pieces holding it to the body. If you remove the screws and use a pick or flathead screwdriver to carefully pull up on the tabs below the screws while gently pulling the control panel away, it will easily pop off with a rotational movement. The panel is centered into its location via two plastic pins molded into the side panels, so be aware of them and try to avoid breaking them. They'll help you get the panel properly positioned during reassembly, which is simple. You'll see all this easily if you take the time and look. Don't be in a rush. To reassemble, line up the panel with the plastic pins and rotate it into position. The tabs slide easily into position and lock the panel into place. Just don't forget to reinstall the screws. Removing the panel in this manner added a bit of time to the repair, but not a lot. It's still a fast repair overall. Everything else was exactly like in the video. Well, almost. I had no difficulty whatsoever with sliding the new valve into place. But once the job was done the sounds coming from the washer during the filling stages ceased. Turns out the screens in the inlet valve were getting stopped up with lime.

I figured out through the process of elimination that the problem was the rubber plunger that the solenoid opens and closes. I couldn’t fix just the plunger so I replaced the whole water inlet valve and the cold water worked perfectly after that. Even though it was a little tough to diagnose the problem it was very easy to replace the part once I found out what it was that was wrong.

followed the instructions on the video, very easy install

Replaced hinge switch. Still no spin cycle. Noticed hinge bearing cracked & if hinge forced into switch, spin activated. Ordered new hinge bearings.Spin cycle still didn't engage. On further examination, observed that hinge was bent. Straightened hinge & worked like a charm. Didn't really need new switch or bearings. NOTE : Avoid having washer door bang shut.Took longer than expected, but each procedure was simple.

Remove power and hoses. Remove five 1/4” hex head screws on back plate. Top control panel can be removed by inserting putty knife into front right and left corners of control panel. Push with enough force while lifting corners. Clips are metal so you won’t break them. Lay the control panel toward washer lid.
Two screws hold the water inlet in place but remove cables from inlet valves and the cable in the middle which has a temperature sensing thermistor. Once the 2 screws are removed you can manipulate the assembly out of its slot. After new assembly installed with cables reconnected and screws in place align the plastic control panel tabs back in that are at the rear of the top before snapping the control panel back into position.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

At first I had to position the washer so I could get access.. after having it positioned, I figured it out. Getting the clamp fastened, I was done.