11084390400 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Had no problem in disassembling the unit to get to the water inlet valve area. Very little problem installling the inlet valve but had somewhat of a difficult time getting the housing reassembled. There is a good flow of both hot and cold water which has cut down on the fill up time and washing time. Glad it is still working after 15 years. Instructions on the internet were extremely helpful. The delivery time of part was amazingly fast.

removed top panel and back panel
and then disconect the two wire fromm water inlet
fallow by removing screws.disconect water hose
then put back new part make sure i have all same conected as original put back panel top and back
conected hose for water back and electric .
then i turned 0n cold water perfect work hot water perfect warm perfect. problem fixed.
thanks. pedro

First - I saw the picture of the part on your site. It made all the difference.
Then, I turned off the water supply, unplugged the washer, removed the screws holding the backing plate on the washing machine to expose the valve.
After that, it was as easy as removing two mounting screws, disconnecting the solenoids (just two connections), pulling out the old valve and replacing it with the new.
Pretty simple and a lot less pricey when you can wait a few days for a part to come in the mail.

I wish I could be more specific, but I had a bit of trouble getting the back off the washer. I removed the control panel on the top of the machine and that allowed me to get to the two clips that secured the back onto the unit. The I removed additional screws on the back until I was able to pull the back away from the frame on the side where the valve was installed. after loosening the screws that held the valve to the back panel I was able to reach in and pull it out of the side. Once that was done, the rest was a breeze. I clipped the hose on the original valve and re-attached it to the new part. Then it was just a matter of reassembling and that went much, much faster than the disassembling. I reattached the water lines, plugged in the washer and it worked like a charm. I was very pleased with the whole thing. Also, I paid for standard freight, but received the part the following day after placing the order. Sweet.

Unplugged the washer and pulled out from wall as far as hoses would permit. Removed and drained both supply hoses. Removed drain hose and drained. Any water left in the tub will drain here so it's best to make sure it's drained prior to repair. Used pliers to hold the hose clamp and removed. Took screws out of drain hose interface plate and pulled out far enough to disconnect it from the internal hose.
Removed the two front screws of the control console. removed the two top hinge screws on the back. Removed four screws at the bottom of the rear access panel. Had to lift unclip several clamps holding the level hose in the control console and a cable connector. Unclipped various clips in the back panel to free it from wire bundle and such. Lifted the back panel up off of the clips located at the rear base of the control panel.

Removed two screws to free the solenoid assembly from the back panel. Unplugged the connectors to the original solenoid assembly. Disconnected the internal hose from it. Installed screw and plate supplied with the replacement solenoid to configure it with the same orientation as the original. Connected the internal hose and electrical connectors. Reassembled the back in reverse order as diassembled.

I replaced the water inlet valve. First I watched a YouTube video on the repair; surprised to learn that you take the machine apart from the front, not the back.A few tips; pull the washer all the way out first; have extra tools in case you have the same problem as I did that the flathead screws holding the old valve on the back were too tight and had a shallow slot; it took several wrenches and pliers to get them turning. Do NOT forget to hook the internal hose back to the valve before reassembling the machine;and pay close attention to how the housing of the washer fits onto the frame, so that you can more easily put it back together. It would be helpful to have a second person for that step. All said, it was pretty easy to replace the part and I probably saved $200 and didn't have to sit around for a repairman.

I own a small, local handyman service as a Father/Son team. This repair is PERFECT for an apprentice to do as a confidence biulder. He learned the safe way to service a machine with garanteed success. This is a job anyone with basic knowledge can easily do with a little on-line homework on their machine. -Jim & Tom W.-

This was a thirty year old Kenmore washer. I removed the control frame, and then removed the two nuts holding the water inlet valve. The valve itself was easy, two water lines and one fill line. Reassembly was problematic as this valve was not exactly the same, I just tied off the valve to the water lines so it would not move.
Of course what took the most time was a run to Home Depot as the hot and cold water hoses were old and I replaced them with new.

Followed the instructions on the Part Select video which were very clear. I removed control module from top of washer, pulled the washing machine outer housing forward slightly and disengaged the rear closure panel slightly. I disconnected the electrical harness and then I was then able to remove the existing inlet valve. The new valve was then installed and the precess reversed to complete the installation.

Piece of cake!! (The water comes pouring into the machine now)

Our washer's cold water flow became very slow. We were living with just hot water washing for about a month. I had used PartSelect in past and have always been very satisfied with the outcome. So, I went on the site and within a couple of minutes of navigating, had the part (water inlet valve with mounting plate) on order.

I watched the repair video on the water valve ordering page. My installation went pretty much to this procedure, with one exception, I had to use the mounting plate, which I don't think was covered in the video. You have to read and follow the instruction sheet that comes with the part. Therefore, my installation instructions are to a) watch the video, b) get together all the recommended tools described in the video, c) be prepared to use the mounting plate (which uses the same 1/4 nutdriver the video says is needed).

I did the complete valve replacement and had the washer back in place in just at 30 minutes, the tight closet quarters added a bit to this time I'm sure. Working in a basement or open utility room would have been a little easier and quicker. My shortfall though is, I should have done the hose connection check (turning the supply valves back on) before making the move back into the washer space, as once I performed what I thought was my last step, turning on the supply valves, I heard a water leak. This was resolved with another 10 minutes worth of moving the washer back out, disconnecting the hose, removing the rust debris which apparently caused the leak, reconnecting the hose, and this time, checking for leaks BEFORE moving the appliance back into place. I think the time estimate of 30 minutes is good for individuals with moderate experience in appliance repair, and probably good for the novice in conjunction with the video.

I'm a 61 year old single woman, rather handy around the house. I followed the video which was very helpful and everything went together fine until it came to putting the body of the machine back on. I did the repairs all myself which took about an hour but when it came to the machine body I couldn't get it back on there after numerous tries. I had to call my brother and it took him just one try but then he is 6'2" and could look down the little hole to see where the tab was to put it on and hold the body at the same time. BTW - he did inspect my work before finishing the job and said I "did good!" Thanks for the video but could have used some hints as to how to put the body on with some close ups as to what he was doing with his hands when he did it.

Opening the washing machine, and removal and replacement of the water inlet valve were both trivially easy. However, getting the cabinet back into place was a bit tricky, only because I did it by myself. It was surprising how flexible and flippy-floppy the cabinet became when free of the structure of the machine. It would have been a huge help to have had a buddy over to just help place the back corners of the cabinet into place. That would have made the whole job totally easy.

pulled leads off old wigwag solenoid, removed set screw and sprayed shaft w/wd40 then tapped it off shaft w/small hammer and large screwdriver. put new wigwag solenoid onto shaft then tapped it down into place and tapped it to rotate to expose set screw hole. reattached set screw, reattached leads to solenoid, checked looseness/freeness of cam arms and it worked

First I unplugged the washing machine and turned off the inlet water faucets. I prepared my tools, spead a drop cloth, and had ready a towel and small bucket to catch water from the hoses.
I pulled the washer away from the wall and removed the screw holding the ground wire. I disconnected the inlet hoses and the drain hose from the wall and put the loose ends in the washer tub. Then I completly turned the washer around for easy access. I removed the inlet hoses and the drain hose using the bucket to catch the little water that was still in the hoses. I removed 2 screws holding the top control panel to the back place and removed the 3 screws at the bottom of the back plate. I also removed the two screws holding the control panel to the top of the washer. The water inlet valve is located on the left side looking at the rear about half way up. I was able to move the left panel of the washer out of the way an inch or so, and pull the left side of the rear panel away a few inches so I could stick my hand in and unhook the cold and hot wire cables. I memorized which went into which slot. Then I unscrewed the water inlet valve and pulled it out the opening to the back and using a pair of pliers I loosed the water clamp and removed the rubber inlet hose. A small amount of water came out which I was able to catch in my small pail.
The water inlet valve comes with a separate mounting plate. I attached the mounting plate with one of the screws provided. The screws are identical except one has a flat slot and the other has a special star slot.
I reattached the rubber inlet hose using the pliers to hold the clamp then positioned the water inlet valve back in place on the back panel. I put a screw in to hold it and reattached the wires for the hot and cold control. Then I tightened the screws.

I repositioned the panels and put the lower screws holding the back panel to the washer back in loosely. I positioned the control panel back on the top of the washer and reattached the two screws on the back and then the two screws holding the front of the control panel to the top of the washer. Then I reattached the inlet hoses and draine hose.
I used this opportunity with the washer away from the wall to clean the floor and wall behind it. After cleaning under the washer, I moved the dryer over and cleaned under the dryer and made sure the dryer hose was still connected.
I put the dryer back, and repositioined the washer half way back into the opening. The I reattached the ground wire to the back of the dryer and attached the hoses to the wall. Then I pushed the washer back into place. Using a level I rechecked the level of the washer. I turned the water back on and ran a small load of wash to test. It worked fine.

I watched the video provided and followed the same steps in taking the washer cabinet off. The valve was very easy to replace and I took the opportunity to really clean and inspect everything. A little tricky to get back together but not bad. My 25 year old kenmore is working like a charm.