11081675700 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

The instructional video that was attached with the part I purchased was spot on with very simple instructions. The inlet valve came with a metal bracket that was not needed for my model, so just tossed it. Was completed with replacement in about 30 minutes with help from my aspiring handywoman wife (would have taken 15 minutes without her)

Watched the video on the website... and did what it said to do. It was VERY helpful... It did not fix the problem... so now I'm on to the next possible solution. Also, provided by the website. The valve was the problem 85% of the time. The water level switch is the problem 10% of the time. The water level switch is what I ordered next.
Ordering is EASY and delivery is fast with available tracking of the shipment. Very nice...! -Eddie Campbell

On this model, no need to tip washer on back. Tilt console back and disconnect lid switch. Remove two clips holding back to top of washer (under console). Then remove top and front as directed in the video. The pump is accessible from the front of the unit, just below the tub. Hose clamps are easy to remove/replace. Took more time to wipe inside of washer clean than to remove/replace the water pump. Total time was just over 30 minutes.

Unplugged washer. Pulled the washer away from the wall & leaned it back against the wall to access the underneath side of the washer. Disconnected water hoses to the pump with water pump pliers. Have drain pan handy to catch the water, approximately 1 qt. Remember which hose goes to the proper place. Removed two retaining screws/straps allowing the motor to be seperated from the transmission. There is enough slack in the wiring to allow you to drop the motor without disconnecting. You do not need to remove the water pump. Removed old coupling & replaced with the new one. Make sure you use the "new style" replacement coupler or you will be doing this repair again very soon! Schematics are available online.

Removed old tube and replaced with new version. Replacement slightly different than original since the new part included a feature that appears to prevent the problem. New part still fit and is operating well so far.

I just replaced the spring just like the vid show me.it run's like a new one-I bought it used about 5 yr's ago

Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.

First read up on what others did and tried to find free repair manual with little luck. Called repairman, they thought whole transmission was shot- would have been $70 just to have them look- forget it. Getting it apart: popped off the two console cosmetic panels to get to a screw on each side from the top. Lifted off console, levered and squeezed retaining clips. Unhooked two connectors and overflow tubing? Shell pulled off easily, getting back on after I was all done made me wonder if it was a good choice. In the end yes- allowed me to clean inside surfaces of both tubs to remove grime and rust. There are many stories on the actual clutch replacement, so won't go into too much detail but some lessons learned. Keep track of the way all the plastic aggitator pieces go in, plus the washers and clips along the way. Deep well 1/2" I think socket for the tub, it's litely spring loaded so look before you set it down. Punching off the nut on the tub worried me, but it was no big deal. Loosens and tightens the normal directions, no positive tight stop, just compression so pay attention to how tight and hard you pounded to get it off. Drain the water from the inner tub before getting too far. I took the four springs off and removed both tubs to clean. No more complaining about brown spots on clothes. Get the whole clutch kit, not just the band, even though it's probably just the band worn out. The plastic clutch engaging piece will probably be fatigued. The motor etc is heavy, and buffered it's drop with rags. tip on side when putting it back, because its a bear to try to lift up. I lightly greased some moving parts, just not much as to not cause band grip problems. The wire retaining clip is tricky- I put the hook end in first, used pliers to try and compress, and screwdriver to push down and in. The whole things wants to spin while you do this, but when it finally goes, it stays. I was concerned about the location of the band spring in relation to it's actuator when putting it together, but it turned out if you put it anywhere where the clutch is free to spin, it will engage normally. The top lid has two rubber bumpers, one fell off and landed on the front bottom corner of the cover which didn't help reinstallaion until my 8year old noticed it! Took a number of tries but finally got the four guides from the frame into the cover. I tried bringing it in level, front tipped sligthly up, front tipped slightly down; in the end I won't be much help, it just finally went. It wasn't as easy as most people said it would be, but my back hurt and I had kids "help", and it took just under two hours. Works amazingly well now. Parts arrived Two days after ordering, with no expiditing!

Purchased and installed PS1485646 COUPLING, MOTOR (Direct Drive Coupling). We googled "Washing Machine making a grinding noise. Several people suggested coupling probably broken. We located some instructions online regarding dis-assembly, sure enough,the coupling was broken. We ordered the part from Partselect.com. It arrived in three days, replaced the broken coupler. Washing machine back in business for around $20. Hooray! Thanks, Partselect!

Clutch was noticibly worn compared to new part. Direct drive flange had broken, this part should be steel. found a you tube video that was simple to follow. no problems

First off, I unplugged the AC cord and disconnected the Hot and Cold water hoses. I partially removed the back of the washer with a screwdriver. There were two screws holding the control panel in place and once they were removed it simply fell forward onto the top of the machine. That allowed me to pull the back plate free and remove the old water inlet valve. I had to first disconnect the two AC leads from the valve along with the small hose that supplies water to the tub. The small hose had a compression clamp on it that came off with pliers. After removing the two screws that secured the valve to the back of the machine the old valve simply came out. Insallation was the reverse. I will add that when removing the controll panel there are two S shaped clips (one either side of the panel) that need to be removed using a screw driver. Be careful not to push too hard as they may fall into the machine. I also replaced both the Hot and Cold wataer hoses. All in all it was a very easy repair. I read and followed the instructions of others that posted their experience right here which was a HUGE help-thanks everyone and thanks to Part Select for the prompt delivery. I orderd the part on a Sunday and received it on Tuesday-how awesome is that?!

Actually I had been out shopping , came home, and my husband suprised me by having it done.

The ease and quickness that we esperienced in ordering and recieving the part was quite remarkable.

We use all Sears appliances and they are all about 15 yrs old and still in very good service,

Other than the despenser... we had no other
operational problems.

It was the personal online help that was the most surprising.. what a great thought. They found my part and part # so quickly.

Popped dispenser in place & touched up chipped areas

removed two phillips screws from control panel. lifted panel to reveal two clips on both sides of machine. used flathead screwdriver to remove clips. tilted whole body up and away. pushed drum towards first spring and removed it . installation was reverse of procedure. did not fix it because basket had rusted at shaft bottom under agitator and put basket out of balance.

The tough part was replacing the front cabinet.
I did consult the video for help on replacing the clutch spring.
Thank you for that bit.

I admit to taking too much apart, most of the cabinet back can be left alone.
Some of the plastic wire keepers/routers suffered, as well as the console hinges.

The newly reassembled washer works without a hitch, and truely it took me about 4 hours over several days to dissamble and reassemble.
It is louder in the audible range than before, but very serviceale for another 20 years, saints willing.