11029962890 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

The instructional video that was attached with the part I purchased was spot on with very simple instructions. The inlet valve came with a metal bracket that was not needed for my model, so just tossed it. Was completed with replacement in about 30 minutes with help from my aspiring handywoman wife (would have taken 15 minutes without her)

The coupling, made of plastic and rubber, on our Whirlpool washer gave out. Done the same repair nine years ago and knew what to do. Here is a short summery:

1. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the control panel on top of the machine in place

2. unscrew the screws that connect the housing with the back panel

3. pop the 2 clips under the control panel to release the back panel

4. with the back panel loose disconnect everything
that is pushed, screwed or clamped on and take the back panel off (don't worry about remembering where things go, everything can go only one way together again)

5. slightly lift the housing of the washer in the back to remove, that gives you access to the coupling in front of the machine

6. I personally like to put the washer on its back and do the repair that way. However, if you want to
leave it standing that is gets you there too.

7. take the screws out of the brackets that hold the pump (the thing with the two hoses attached to it)
in place and snap off the brackets; lift up the pump and put aside

8. you can now remove the broken coupling

9. check for any fragments and clean off what needs to be cleaned

10. replace the coupling

11. reverse the order of steps 1 to 7; make sure that the all electrical connections and hoses are connected!

12. test

Replaced the springs after watching the video's from this site and problem has been solved.

EXACTLY as your video demonstrated.

Unscrewed two screws that hold the conrol counsel and tilted the control counsel back. Disconected brass clips that held the back of the unit to the cabinet tilted he cabinet back toward the front and slid it off. Disconected the wire harness for the switch and unscrewed the two screws under the lid and took the switch out replaced the switch put the screwes back that held the switch in place tilted the cabinet back nd slide it back on refastened he brass clips tild the control counsel bak replaced the screws the hole repair took about 30 minutes fairly easy to do with just a flat head and philips screw driver

I just replaced the spring just like the vid show me.it run's like a new one-I bought it used about 5 yr's ago

researched the problem from the web-site.found the three most common things that would cause the problem.inspected the washer to see if there was evidence that one of the described parts had falled,and found that the tub wear pads were missing do to wear.simply replaced and it solved the problem. Thanks for the information.

Disconnected power, all hoses. Tilted washer backward to see underneath. (Placed sturdy 6" high object under back of washer to keep it from going flat on ground and possibly damaging hose connects). Looked for area where motor and transmission connect. Saw broken part (coupling). After trial and error, figured out how to remove pump and then motor, by removing strap type holding clips, and then broken part was accessible. Ordered part online and was easy to install and reassemble washer now that I knew how it came apart. If I had known the part name or number beforehand, I could have watched the replacement instruction video on this site, but I figured it out anyway, and I did it without removing the whole control switch panel and side panels/body of washer, like they do in the video. But..I guess they had to do that to give you a good view of all the parts and things they were removing underside. I recommend watching video for this part install,so you see what needs to be removed and how underneath, but then just tilting washer back to access underside, without all that control panel and sides removal.

Watched the video and followed the instructions. Everything went smoothly and the repair was done in under 15 minutes, less time than it took to mop up the water when it overflowed telling me that there was a problem.

I first took the 2 screws out and disconnected the wires, I got my parts ordered and when they came in I put it back together then plugged th wires back in. I really could not believe that I could do something of this nature but when I started it was easy. My boyfriend wanted to take the washer to a repair shop, but I said first I will take a look and see if it will be worth saving. Otherwise I will junk it. It cost me with shipping costs 41.00 I am very proud of my self.
But I read other peoples experience on fixing the same problem that I had so I gave it a try.
I will not hesitate to do other jobs myself. Doreen Finlaw

I used one socket on the one bolt. Put the repair kit together dropped it in and replaced the bolt. It took less than 10 minutes, total time, from opening the package to full restoration.

Purchased and installed PS1485646 COUPLING, MOTOR (Direct Drive Coupling). We googled "Washing Machine making a grinding noise. Several people suggested coupling probably broken. We located some instructions online regarding dis-assembly, sure enough,the coupling was broken. We ordered the part from Partselect.com. It arrived in three days, replaced the broken coupler. Washing machine back in business for around $20. Hooray! Thanks, Partselect!

First off, I unplugged the AC cord and disconnected the Hot and Cold water hoses. I partially removed the back of the washer with a screwdriver. There were two screws holding the control panel in place and once they were removed it simply fell forward onto the top of the machine. That allowed me to pull the back plate free and remove the old water inlet valve. I had to first disconnect the two AC leads from the valve along with the small hose that supplies water to the tub. The small hose had a compression clamp on it that came off with pliers. After removing the two screws that secured the valve to the back of the machine the old valve simply came out. Insallation was the reverse. I will add that when removing the controll panel there are two S shaped clips (one either side of the panel) that need to be removed using a screw driver. Be careful not to push too hard as they may fall into the machine. I also replaced both the Hot and Cold wataer hoses. All in all it was a very easy repair. I read and followed the instructions of others that posted their experience right here which was a HUGE help-thanks everyone and thanks to Part Select for the prompt delivery. I orderd the part on a Sunday and received it on Tuesday-how awesome is that?!

The tough part was replacing the front cabinet.
I did consult the video for help on replacing the clutch spring.
Thank you for that bit.

I admit to taking too much apart, most of the cabinet back can be left alone.
Some of the plastic wire keepers/routers suffered, as well as the console hinges.

The newly reassembled washer works without a hitch, and truely it took me about 4 hours over several days to dissamble and reassemble.
It is louder in the audible range than before, but very serviceale for another 20 years, saints willing.

Honestly, it took more time to figure out how to get at the dang thing than it did to replace the assembly. One screwdriver for the whole project. Very easy to figure out (once I got into the machine casing, anyway).