11042824202 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

I ordered the part, followed the instructions listed on appliance help and put it in... easy

I just take out the botton part and fine what part what i need chage and just chage exactly like the old if yoo dot remember all the wires please take pictures and you hava guia to check went you are finished

The difficult part was getting the water from the washer without making a huge mess. I used a shop vac loosened the cover on the filter/strainer assembly use the shop vac to suck up the water before spills all over. if the tub is full I dumped my shop vac twice total. 1 Remove pedestal drawer 2 removed lower cover to expose mechanicals and pump assembly 3 vac out the water by using above procedure. 4 rotate hose clamps to a position where you can get the needle vice grip on them/remove hose clamps. 5 lift cover exposing electrical connections on the pump assembly depress tab slide connector out. 6 remove 1 torx head screw securing pump to base of washer. 7 remove pump assembly. 8 Reinstall in reverse of above instruction. I also took the lower tub hose off and washed, bleached along with hot water to. clean it

I followed the guy on the video. The only parts that were tough was having the right tools and having enough space to put the new part in. The part was only 70 dollars and I was so proud that I could do it. I am not very handy so if I can do it then anyone can. Plus I saved some money!

(1) Turn off water valves (2) remove water lines (3) remove three metric star screws from top/back of washer (4) remove to plate (5) remove single screw retaining water inlet valve at back of washer (6) remove electrical connections from water inlet valve and flow meter (7) loosen hose clamps at back of soap dispenser (8) remove assembly/apply new parts (9) reverse above directions. Because the plastic nipple at the back of the soap dispenser was brittle, it partially broke on me. I applied urethane glue to the break and let it dry overnight. Next day I applied marine-grade silicone sealant around the break area. That evening I assembled and then used the washer to test for leaks. Success!

most would have thrown out the appliance ,but at $1000.00 to replace it was worth the shot to repair ,basket was under warranty (450.00 value )part damaged was the outer plastic being damaged ,washer repaired for under 150.00 and back inservice saved 850.00

The product came on time and was perfectly rapped , it took me 15 mins to install after watching you tube videos on front loader washer . I was happy I didn't have to call a service man in . . . .

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.

I replaced the flow meter but that want it, so replaced the water inlet valve and that cured what ailed it. The only pain was that the single screw that holds the part to the washer is a torx rather than a nut like the rest of the back screws. Couldn't see it without pulling the washer all the way out. Hose clamp came off with pliers and the electrical connectors were TIGHT but came off with some effort. Replaced everything and error cleared ok.

The water inlet vavle was pretty easy to find once I took the top off. The water input hoses connect directly to it and 2 electrical connection per valve. One screw needs to be removed. The only trick is to slide the valve to the left to remove. It is captured by the sheet metal washer housing at the base of the male hose connetion.

Very easy repair, once I read the reviews and watched a couple of you tube videos. I just released the band holding the gasket in place, pulled it back, unscrewed the latch and installed a new one. Less than a 10 min job. I am glad I found this web site, thanks guys!!

Took both the screws out on the top back. Lifted up the back about 1/2 inch and slid to the back. Reached into the front of the washer where the latch was connected. Disconnected the 3 wires (plugs) attached to the latch, took out the 3 screws located inside the washer door. Took a second person just to hold the latch and bring it out after the screws were off the front inside the washer door. Put new latch in, connected the wires, put in the screws behind the washer door (3 of them) and slid the top into place and put the screws in the back. Takes longer to tell you than to do it. Remember the screw on the left side front (top) as you face the washer and remove that screw. The plastic had disintegrated on mine but am not going to replace that part until I have to.

Researched the instructions on Partselect website. Followed them to the letter. When the parts arrived, I had them in, the machine reassembled and running in 10 minutes or less. Very simple and straightforward.

This took ten minutes .... super easy .... DO IT YOURSELF!!!! About 75.00 with shipping ... can only imagine this woulkd have been 250 to 300 to have somebody com e onsite.