11042824202 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

First I removed the retainer ring and then pulled back enough of the boot to get the door switch out and plugged in the new switch put the retainer ring back on and it was finished. With out the repair book I would have been lost on how to do the job.

it was a really easy fix. unclamped the 2 hoses and took out screw, removed water pump. Connected two hoses back and set in place then screwed in locking screw. could not have been any easier.

following the procedure was easy except the alignment of the new valve was off by 1/4 inch and I had to drill an additional hole to reuse the screw for attachment. Piece of cake otherwise.

Took off bottom panel by removing 3 torx screws. Opened up door seal, removed three latch retaining screws, unplugged three wiring harnesses. Installed new latch and reinstalled in reverse order.

Removed 2 screws from rear of top that hold top of washer in place, lifted top at the rear and slid it back then lifted it off. Removed the three wiring harnesses from old switch, removed the three screws holding switch in place, theses are accessed from the door opening. removed the two lower screws first and held the switch from the top while removing the last screw. Placed new switch in place and started the top screw by hand followed by hand starting the remaining two screws, tightened screws with phillips screw driver, reconnected the three harnesses, reinstalled the top and secured with the two screws. Door locks and unlocks as it is supposed to.

First I made sure the washer was unplugged from the outlet and I took out 3 screws that held the front panel and removed it to get access to the pump.
I disconnected the electrical plug to the pump and there were 3 phillips head screws that held the pump in place that needed to removed. Pulled out the old pump and slide the new one in it's place with no prorblems. Tighten the 3 screws on and plugged it back in and away we went washing clothes again.

First I removed the remain remaining baffle using a screw driver to gently pry and break the plastic tabs which held it to the drum. I replaced all three in the event that the balance could be affected if I were to only replace the broken ones. The replacements slid in and locked into place easily but I did have to gently apply pressure with a large-shanked screwdriver using the rear of the drum to push off of. The hardest part was being able to see what I was doing inside of the dark tub! I needed an extra hand to hold a flashlight. I then discovered the worth of my black and Decker light bar which has a magnetic base! Perfect for the job!
I agree with an earlier post that there is no need to suffer the effects of a washer with a missing baffle when you can replace it so easily.

Replaced pump

1)I removed the bottom front panel,reached up the right side of the machine and pulled the manual release on the bottom of the latching mechanism.2)I then removed the top to the machine in order to gain access to the latch. 3)I removed three electrical connectors then the three mounting screws using a #15 Torx driver. I then reversed the reverse procedure to install the new latch. total time to do the job was less than half an hour. Machine works OK.

Unplugged and disconnected water lines. Removed three machine screws on the back edge of the washer top. Lifted the back and then pulled it to release it from the front. Removed 1 screw from the back next to the hot water connection. Slide the water valve assembly over to the left if you are standing in front of the washer and it pops out. Then slide the hose clamp for the small hose off and use flat head screw driver to pry hose loose. Then use flat head to gently work connectors off. Then reinstall everything in reverse order. Reconnect water lines turn on water and watch water leaks before cover is reinstalled.

take the back cover off and put belt on. the belt is a tight fit and requires sone effort, but can be done.

I removed the back panel to access the top end of the hose then I removed the lower front panel to access the lower end of the hose that attaches to the pump. The hose is secured with spring clamps and they were removed with pliers, the panels are secured with screws.

I replaced the hose and reinstalled the panels and I was done.

Removed the 3 screws that hold the bottom front panel in place. Removed the 3 screws that hold the door latch in place and pulled out on the bottom of the door which wasn't very much and slid the door latch out to get to the wire connections. Connected the wires to the new latch and pulled out bottom again and put the latch back into place and put the 3 screws back in. Note: make sure you unplug the washer so you don't have a chance to get shocked. Level of difficulty was pretty easy.

The baffles do push thru slots in the drum and by then pulling them towards you, it moves slightly locking them into place. There are screws supplied and they could be installed to aid in the baffles not coming off as ofter but this cannot by done by the average person for you would need special tools and allot of fixet smarts and patience. My washer can be set at a higher spinout speed and this does save on drying costs but the trade off is the baffles break off way too often. There are metal tabs in the drum that are raised up and snap behind tabs on the underside of the baffles as you slid them towards you install them. If you rebend these tabs up with a longnose pliers twice as high as they are, they will have more holding force, keeping the baffles from coming off as often. In my opinion, the baffles should have been designed to slide backwards to lock them in place, not foward. If you look at how they are shaped, they natually have pressure pushing them towards the back of the drum in the spin cycle which just contributes to the problem of them coming off in the first place.

REMOVE AND REPLACE. FLEXIBLE RUBBER CONNECTOR WAS NOT A EXACT REPLACEMENT, THE ORIGANIL HAD A BACK STOP VALVE, NOT SURE OF THE EFFICATE ON MACHINE.