11084090230 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I diagnosed by reversing the plugs on the hot/cold valves. I then removed the valve , cleaned it up and sprayed the electrical contacts with (Corrosion Block) and re-assembled. It still only had hot water. Ordered part, received part next day. When I went to install it I discovered that the (Corrosion Block) had penatrated and all was working! So now I have a spare valve.

Opened back panel and replaced valve - very easy

I followed the great step by step video instructions that you provided. The only difficulty was getting the plugs off the Water Inlet Valve. I had to use pliers (gently) to pull the two plugs off. I would highly recommend PartSelect to my friends.

I watched the video on changing the valve. Then ordered the part. The video showed exactly how to do the repair and it was so easy.

Our washer's cold water flow became very slow. We were living with just hot water washing for about a month. I had used PartSelect in past and have always been very satisfied with the outcome. So, I went on the site and within a couple of minutes of navigating, had the part (water inlet valve with mounting plate) on order.

I watched the repair video on the water valve ordering page. My installation went pretty much to this procedure, with one exception, I had to use the mounting plate, which I don't think was covered in the video. You have to read and follow the instruction sheet that comes with the part. Therefore, my installation instructions are to a) watch the video, b) get together all the recommended tools described in the video, c) be prepared to use the mounting plate (which uses the same 1/4 nutdriver the video says is needed).

I did the complete valve replacement and had the washer back in place in just at 30 minutes, the tight closet quarters added a bit to this time I'm sure. Working in a basement or open utility room would have been a little easier and quicker. My shortfall though is, I should have done the hose connection check (turning the supply valves back on) before making the move back into the washer space, as once I performed what I thought was my last step, turning on the supply valves, I heard a water leak. This was resolved with another 10 minutes worth of moving the washer back out, disconnecting the hose, removing the rust debris which apparently caused the leak, reconnecting the hose, and this time, checking for leaks BEFORE moving the appliance back into place. I think the time estimate of 30 minutes is good for individuals with moderate experience in appliance repair, and probably good for the novice in conjunction with the video.

I'm a 61 year old single woman, rather handy around the house. I followed the video which was very helpful and everything went together fine until it came to putting the body of the machine back on. I did the repairs all myself which took about an hour but when it came to the machine body I couldn't get it back on there after numerous tries. I had to call my brother and it took him just one try but then he is 6'2" and could look down the little hole to see where the tab was to put it on and hold the body at the same time. BTW - he did inspect my work before finishing the job and said I "did good!" Thanks for the video but could have used some hints as to how to put the body on with some close ups as to what he was doing with his hands when he did it.

I just followed the instructions from a previous customer. Worked perfectly.

Take top of washing machine off. Turn spikets off and remove hot and cold inlet hoses. Remove one screw holding part in place. Reach from front and take valve out. Unplug wiring harnesses. Reinstall the same way I took it off.

Removed backing and hoses and replaced the water inlet valve.

I removed the faulty valve after unplugging the AC cord. Two screws, the two water hoses were removed, and the electrical connections were unplugged. The old valve could then be rotated so that the clamp on the fill tube could be loosened and the tube pulled off the valve.
The new valve body seemed to be an exact replacement, but the mounting bracked was slightly different and required drilling two new screw-mounting holes; an easy job.
Before securing the mounting plate to the machine, the fill tube and clamp were reattached, and the electrical connectors plugged in. After connecting the supply hoses and plugging in the AC cord, the machine filled with water properly and everything seemed to be back to normal.
I might have been able to use the original mounting plate, but it had been taken to a different location which was too far away to easily retrieve.

As I tore my ACL, my wife actually did the actual repair while I talked her through it. The video on your website was such a great help. Our repair went exactly as depicted.

replaced valve. Everything now working. Ordering the part was simple and I found a how to video on line that was great The whole replacement of the defective part was easy and the machine was back on line in 30 minutes.

I simply watched the video that PartSelect has online and it was a big help although my washer was a little different it still gave me the general idea on how to remove the casing. Great website! Thanks PartSelect!

>removed 2 screws connecting the vent filter to the top lid of the unit (just in front of removable filter).
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!

Loosing back cover to reach in and remove valve