11084090230 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

This should have been done under 30 minutes but when you don't have a repair manual, you have to do some guessing. I have to remove the back panel. On only thing that was hard was unspringing the two flat springs. After I got the panel off, the rest was easy and the dripping stopped. Oh, there is a screen where the hose connects to the inlet valve. If you can clean the screen often, you can continue to get a good water flow.

unscrewed the back removd thr two screws for the element unhooked the hose to machiine unpluged the electric to element and than replaced new element and plugged electric to element and hooked back the hose and replaced screws too the back and replaced back an screws
titled wash machine up hooked hoses for the water and plugged electric and put drain hose back to drain done

I just followed the instructions found on this website. It covered everything you need to know. I have just one thing to add though. Look over everything first and formulate a game plan. Keep all screws etc. and put them in a plastic bag so you don't lose them. You might try using a heavy hammer to force the clips holding the back panel to the top of the machine back in place. One more thing; use a piece of wood to set the back panel on while you replace the intake valve.

The valve was easy to change, but we as homeowners should change the hot and cold hoses just like they say you should every 5 years. The hoses grew to the water valve and it was almost a disaster. After cutting the end with a dremmel and clamping visegrips on it I finally got it loose. After that it went smooth. Thanks for getting me the part so fast.

unplug unit first Took water & drain hose loose, used two wheel dolly, took washer out on patio. Removed water hose. Removed two screws # 49 an laid back control unit then Removed 2 #6 Clips Top of unit, then pried back unit cover out enough to remove Water valve after removing #4 screw that holds unit to back panel ,removed hose clamp #21 an electric connections, install new water valve and put back together..DO NOT TAKE BOTTOM SCREWS FROM BACK PANEL, if so the bottom will drop.. Intake cold water valve was half stopped up. Also new water lines.

The hot water hose was frozen to the hot water bibb and it took me a while to cut it loose with my Dremel tool. Removed the cabinet and replaced the water inlet valve easily, then hooked up new hot and cold water hoses. Reinstalling the cabinet was a little tricky getting it lined up correctly. Checked for leaks then tested the washing machine and it ran great with the water filling the machine much faster with the new Water Inlet Valve. I will definitely replace the washing machine hot and cold water hoses every 5 years from now on.

Order replacement lid switch, installed it, good to go. The installation video and instructions with the replacement part were very helpful.

The repair went great. The video shown on the partselect site saved me a huge amount of time disassembling the cabinet to access the malfunctioning part. The most difficult part of the repair was replacing the cabinet on the unit after the part swap and getting it straight. Luckily 2 attempts was enough. I recommend trying this repair yourself and saving a bunch of $$.

Your web site is amazing Ive enjoyed watching your videos,this is a really great way to see what it takes to repair your washer very informative. Steve was a good teacher for me I just followed along as he explained each step and my washer came apart just like he said. I removed the two front console screws and pulled slightly forward and lifted console up and tilted it back where it was out of the way. next I was able to lift cabinet up from the back and remove it from the frame and lay cabinet on the floor on top of a rug I had to protect the finish on cabinet . Now I had access to the lid switch and simply removed the two screws in the cabinet and the old switch. I connected the two wire connections to the new switch (no)normally open connection, used same actuator the instructions say to do this because the one that comes with the new switch won't fit so use the old one. on my washer there's a cover that fits under this switch and It took me a little longer to get the screws to line up so they fit through the switch and into the cover but It worked fine. Now all I had to do was reinstall the cabinet just like Steve did on the video my only problem with this was seeing where the tabs in the frame were located so that the slots in the cabinet would fit over top of frame tabs I used a flash light in one hand and lowered the cabinet down I held the light on the frame tabs and the slots in cabinet fit right in then lowered cabinet to the rear frame tabs where i just had to push slightly on the sides of cabinet and it fit right in.Next i pushed the back panel in place and on the top of washer just like in video reinstalled both spring clip clamps and the console and reinstalled the two screws. I plugged in the washer put drain hose back in drain pushed washer back in place turned it on working great now ! Thank You so much for your help Dan.

I followed the instructions I found on your website. It made it very easy. Easier than if I had tried to do it the way I thought I had to remove the back of the washer. Going through the top panel made removing the bottom panel screws unnecessary.
The experts were correct, the instructions precise. Thank you

Removed top control panel, removed inlet mount hardware, removed both electrical connectors, removed filler hose, Installed new inlet valve in reverse order. Works fine !

I followed the video instructions to the tee. Took more time to move the machine out and put back than to replace the inlet valve.

The repair went smoothly once I found detailed instructions including pictures on the web. The inlet valve is mounted on the back panel of the machine. To get access to the valve you need to remove the front/side cabinet. This was done by removing the two plastic moldings on the ends of the control panel, swing the control panel back, removing two screws, then tilting the front/side cabinet forward. The inlet valve was held in place by one screw and attached to the washer with a hose clamp. Reverse the process and the job was done.

It is sometimes tricky to figure out which screws and panels to remove to get to the parts you want to fix. Older Whirlpools used to have a lift up top that would allow access. This one required the back to come off (or at least partially off).

First, pull out the washer for access. Turn off water to the machine, and unplug the electrical cord. Remove the drain hose using a large pliers to pinch the clamp and then pull the hose off. Remove water lines at the back of washer, again with a large pliers (if needed). Remove two screws at the bottom of back panel. Remove two screws at the top corners of back panel that hold some sort of plastic hinge piece to the control housing. Remove two screws on either end of the bottom front of the control housing on top of the machine. The back can now be lifted free (with some effort) from the sheet metal tabs that hold the bottom of the back in place. Reach in the bottom side with the pliers and disconnect the large drain line clamp so you have more room to swing the back out. There also might be a little plastic thingy to twist out of a slot in the back (maybe a vibration damper?) You will see the water inlet valve just inside the back on the side. The inlet hose connections are actually a part of the inlet valve. It is now possible to reach in from the side and disconnect the small water feed line from the inlet valve with a pliers, and disconnect the electrical plugs from the valve. Remove the two screws holding the valve to the back and remove the valve.

Reassembly is actually easier than removal. Don't forget to replace the water hose washers or they will probably leak. If the hoses look bad, just buy a new set. They can be had quite cheap.

Good luck and prepare to be proud of how well your "new" washer now works and how much money you saved!

p.s. PartSelect Rocks!

unlike the other's that said to take the top control panel off, i turned the machine up side down and was able to reach the valve from the bottom. it does require a good reach in but an average length arm will make it. just take the rubber hose loose from the valve with a pair of pliers, or hose clamp pliers if you are so blessed to have them, then pull the hose loose from the valve, then take the two electrical conectors off noting wich one goes with each side, then a nut driver should remove the valve without difficulty. installing new valve should be the reverse. i was up in running in minutes. it took longer to undo the hoses and reattach the hoses than to replace the valve.