11042922202 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

1. After ordering I watched the video on the page for the part, the guy showed exactly what to do.
2. The day the part was to arrive I leaned the washer back and opened the lower front, based on the video on the page for the part, and removed the old shock absorber.
3. Part arrived, and I put in the new shock.
4. I ran a light load in the washer and it worked.
5. I put the washer back together and put in place.
6. I have since run a full load and it has worked well.

Note: In case I messed up the shock I was putting in, I bought 2 but did not need the 2nd one. I have kept it, just in case my 20 year old Whirlpool might need another one in the future.

Easiest repair on 2003 front loading washer. This unit cleverly uses star tool machine screws with a hex head so you can pick your favorite tool. Turn off the water supply. Remove the hot and cold hoses at the inlet valve, draining any water into a small bucket. Have a towel for dribbles. *This is a good time to examine the hoses and replace them if they are anything other than perfect. Burst or leaking hoses is the #1 cause of water damage in homes.* Three screws releases the top cover which slides 1/2 inch back and lifts off easily. Remove one screw securing the inlet valve (same size screw as the others). Pull the old inlet valve away from the rear panel for easier access. Remove the 4 wires from the solenoids (they pull straight off but maybe need a little finesse), and re-attach to the new inlet valve. Using pliers, release the hose clamp on the old valve sliding it down a couple of inches, then move the hose to the new valve and reposition the hose clamp. Toss the old inlet valve in the trash, screw the new one in place, replace the top panel, reattach and hand-tighten your hoses, turn on the water, look for any leaks, and go have a three martini lunch with the money and time you saved.

Remove three screws on bottom panel lift up and remove panel.The water pump in right in front. One screw holds it in place and the input and output hoses are on the back side.The hose clamps are a little hard to take off I found that before taking the one screw off the pump remove these two lines.Putting the pump back in secure the pump with the one screw. The output line is easy the intake line can be a bit of a more work to get it on because the rubber is so thin.Getting this hose and clamp was tough. Most of all use a wet vac to remove water in washer and vac out the line to drain doing this will be water free during replacing water pump.Run a cycle to make sure the lins do not leak. The other is the people that has posted this replacement are very good

Easily. 4 Screws. 2 Clamps.

Followed directions as shown in your repair video, having done this for the first time it took a bit longer than a repairman would have but was able to git-r-done. The most difficult part was fitting the adjustable wire back around the front of the washer, in the video it is made to look really easy however in real life it is a little more difficult and could not be attached so easily and took quite a bit of time to make sure it was attached correctly. thank you for your help.

1. Remove bottom panel (3 screws below). 2. Remove top panel (3 screws back). 3. Remove detergent dispenser (remove T screw in front.) 4. Carefully remove control panel is plastic so be careful not to break it. 5. Pull broken bellow from front and spring loaded clamp will come lose. 6. Push away bellow. 7. Remove cables from door lock. 8. Remove front panel screws (4 - 2 on top and 2 in bottom). 9. Unscrew bellow's clamp with flat screw driver or not driver. 10. Remove worn bellow. 11. Bellow has notch on top (Use as reference to replace. 11. Clean all surfaces. 12. Install new bellow to drum. 13. Screw clamp over of bellow not too tight. Don't want to break the seat. 14. Replace all in the reverse order and for the front of the bellow refer to my previous article (story) on front latch replacement.

Had the old pump out - 1 screw and two hose clamp to unhook and an electrical wire to pull out - couldnt been any easier - when new one came took 5 mins to install - did a load to make sure pump worked before put it all back together

Simple repair. #20 Torx, pair of pliers and 10 minutes to complete the job. Part was exact fit. Turned off the water supply, removed the three screws at the back, slid the top to the back and lifted it off to reveal the valve. Removed the screw holding the valve in place, slid the valve to the right and pulled the valve out to the inside. Used pliers to move the hose retainer off the valve, removed the hose, unplugged the wires, and reversed the procedure to install the new valve.

Removed the outer spring with pliers. Pushed the bellow into the drum. Loosened the clamp on the bellow with a stub nose screwdriver. Removed the bellow. lined bellow up with soap fiting. Reversed procedure to reinstall.

I had units stacked so I had to take the dryer off, pull 3 screws from back, slide cover back and the water valve is right there, easy to change. I have not had the problem since then.

The baffle just slipped on with no tools required. The best thing was that we received our parts the next day after ordering them, and we just paid for regular shipping!

Inputs on your web site of other people who had replaced this valve assembly helped.
Remove top cover from washer - three socket head screws on rear of machine, (need to move washer forward for access)
Turn off both hot and cold manual shutoff vales on wall. Run washer to take water pressure off from hoses (turn on for water to turn on , and then turn washer off).
Remove both hoses (mark/remember which side is hot/cold, as valve assembly has no markings), from valve assembly, had to use channel locks/adjustable wrench to remove nuts as they were really tight. Check to see if gaskets were OK, would have been nice, if these gaskets are supplied with new valve assembly. Remove screw which holds valve assembly to washer. Slide valve assembly slightly side ways to free it from bulkhead panel. Remove last hose assembly inside washer, attached to valve; remove four wires from solenoids. Keep track of wires (which solenoid).
Replace valve, reconnect internal hoses and wires; install valve assemble on bulkhead panel; attach screw; reconnect hoses; turn on manual valves; check for leaks; briefly turn on washer, check for internal leaks; install cover; push back washer in place.

First I removed the retainer ring that holds the outside bellows on the frame of the front washer.
I then pushed the bellows inside of the drum of the washing machine in-order to get to the clamp that holds the bellows on the inside of the drum. To pull the clump I had to use a stubby screwdriver and socket drive to loosen the clamp. Once the clamp is loosen I was able to pull the bellows off, of the drum and out of the washing machine. Installation was the reverse of removal.

Repair was described as a simple 5 minute job following the enclosed directions. There were no directions included. Customer service replied they could not provide any instructions. I located a technical manual online and determined the steps necessary to replace the baffles. While some may just click them in, a proper repair requires the control pannel and machine housing to be removed. Then the tub assembly must be removed and the plastic tub separated from the basket. Three screws (one for each baffle must be installed. (I recommend using blue loctite to keep the screws from backing out). The entire process must then be reversed. This is a slightly complicated (note the pencil is to mark the locations of clips for ease of reinstallation. I am an Engineer and this process took over 2 hours and required a significant amount of space to lay out the parts as the machine was totally disassembled. This assembly is best accomplished with 2 people and an entire afternoon without interruption. It can be done by anyone with some mechanical skills, but find the consumer services technical manual first and be prepared to keep track of a lot of small and large parts. This is not the simple 5 minute job described by others (unless you just want to snap the baffles on the basket and not lock them down). In that case go ahead and order a few more sets as the clips will break and the baffles will slide off and you will be replacing them about every 6 months.

I purchased a new bellows from this site I followed their instructions. Just tricky getting the inner clamp on aligned and tightened.