41744042400 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

E47 error code means control board or door lock. From reading other stories, I decided to try the door lock first since it is much cheaper. Frigidaire tech support was no help at all.

First I removed the "wire" and spring that hold in the rubber seal at the door.

Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the door lock in place.

Removed the door lock, unplugged the 3 connections, plugged the connections into the new door lock, screwed it back in and replaced the rubber seal and wire that holds it in place.

Runs fine now.

I was hoping it was the drain hose but it wasn't. It's a front load washer so I pulled the kick plate in the front (2 screws) removed the three clamps and put the new hose on. Easy job, saved a hundred or so from the repair man. Part cost 35 bucks!

1. replaced (2) shocks, remove bottom cover 2. (1) spring and rib belt, used a wooden block to hold up drum , rolled out ld belt and rolled in new----remove top and rear covers after replaced same ---thanks..

I heard that the repair job was simple and the part was not expensive (whew!) The repair video on your website was MOST helpful and gave me confidence. At first I tried it exactly as the guy demonstrated and all went well removing the broken support. Installing the new one (on the right side) was impossible for me. I could not get good enough leverage to fully re-insert the lock pins and I was slicing up my arm on the sharp metal edges. I removed the 900+ screws (just kidding- but there were quite a few) from the back panel and could access the lock pins MUCH easier. All four for both shock absorbers snapped right in. Re-attaching the rubber vent hose involved a few cuss words but I got it back on correctly after taking a break. All is great with the little washing machine once again! Thank you for the installation video and amazingly fast shipping, wow.

Pulled washer electrical plug from receptacle.
Unscrewed hot and cold water inlet hose connectors.
Removed screws retaining backplate.
Removed back plate.
Removed two screws connecting valve assembly to frame.
Pulled two spade electrical wire connectors from valve assembly.
Opened hose clip securing hose on outlet side of valve assembly, using pliers.
Pulled hose from valve assembly.
Valve assembly now free.
Reversed above with replacement valve assembly.

First,turned the power and water off. I disassembled the door lock and switch assembly by removing two screws from the rear of the top lid to gain access to the switch. Removed two screws from the switch assembly located in the front door latch area. With screws removed, I seperated the three terminal blocks and inspected the assembly for failure potential. Discovered a small crack in the switch housing which created error in relay function. Ordered the part and installed in reverse order of above. Realigned the door for proper closing, turned water and power on and did laundry all night to catch up!!!

The tub is supported by two springs and two shock absorbers. First remove the back panel of the washer. Then I placed the auto jack from my car under the tub, alongside the motor, and cranked it up, lifting the tub, until the top of the seal in the front was compressed. Then I took the top off of the washer to access the springs. There are retaining straps over the top of each spring that I had to remove to get to the springs. Pulling up hard on the spring allowed me to get a pair of pliers on the spring and pull it out of the slot it was in.

Once it was out of the slot I could remove it from the tub as well. I put the new spring in and replaced the retaining strap. Then I repeated this process on the other spring.

Once both springs were in place the tub was hanging as it should and the seal around the door was smooth all the way around. I haven't seen any more leaks since replacing the springs.

Pulled the back off and it was right there. Hardest part was to get the belt all the way around the drive wheel on the washer tub. Found out that it wasn't just the belt. It is the shock absorbers that probably broke the belt, even though the belt was probably well over 15 years old. The bouncing and banging because of the absorbers being bad probably had something to do with the belt eventually breaking. Now, we need to replace the shock absorbers.A big thing to remember about the belt install....clean the drive wheel real good!!!

First I did some research and concluded the water inlet needed replacing. Obviously once you know what you need you go to PartSelet.com for parts and installation info. I went through the front of the machine. So I removed the front of the washer(2 screws at the front bottom)slide down the panel to separate it, lifted the top cover of the washer(2 screws on the underside of the lid and 3 wire connectors to the fill switches) and then loosened the right side panel(3 screws at the bottom). Now pushing the wash barrel to the side it gave me enough room to squeeze my arms in to the inlet part. Be careful there are sharp edges and screw tips inside the machine. I removed the 2 wire connectors(hot and cold solenoids) inside the washer and then removed the screw from the back outside that holds the water inlet to the machine. Now I was able to pull the inlet closer to me so I could get pliers on the hose clamp to loosen and remove the old part. The new part was an improved version that was more solid. I attached the hose affixed the squeeze hose clamp and pushed the water inlet into place. The screws were not threading so I grabbed a couple of self taping hex head screws and a nut driver head for my drill and screwed the inlet in from the back of the washer. Then I replaced the wire connectors to the water inlet. With the water inlet complete, I reattached the right side panel, the washer lid, fill switch connectors and the front panel. Washer fixed and running perfectly!

First, I unplugged the unit, then took out the hold down screw. Next I took off both snap rings and layed towels down. Pulled off both hoses. Finally reattached in reverse order. I did not have the problem of others with the snap rings they came off easy and went back on easy.

The store I bought the washer from was going to charge $150 service call and over $60 for the part. I searched on the internet and found what i needed at partselect.com. The part was under $7 and the shipping cost more than the actual part. 2 screws, 1 screwdriver and it was fixed. Thanks!

The repair itself was simple; it was the original design of the washer itself that made it time-consuming, because of the tight spaces involved. Basically, all you have to do is remove 2 plastic pins, take out the broken part, make sure you have the new part facing the right way, and put the 2 plastic pins back in. Should take 2 minutes if there are not other machine parts in the way!

I began by removing the seal from the exterior lip of the machine housing. I took a razor and removed any rubber and adhesive that remained on the unit.

Next, I remove the boot from the soap dispenser tube (located at about 11:00 of the opening) with a needlenose plyers. The manual recommends flattening a 3" copper pipe to fashon a tool to release the "bread tie" fastener. I can see why but patience with a needlenose sufficed.

I pulled the boot down from the tub housing (with much force) exposing the band that holds the boot in firmly. I one pull, both pieces came out. I could tell getting the new one is was going to be a chore.

I cleaned the area and after about 40 strenuous minutes of getting the new boot onto the tub, only a couple things remained. Even with help, be prepared to dedicate hours of frustration getting the band around the boot securing it to the tub. The working space is minimal and the task is virtually hopeless to slightly possible.

Once that's taken care of, you may feel like you can accomplish anything. The rest goes up in the order it came out. Make sure you slide the boot up as far up the soap dispensing unit as possible before securing the bread tie clamp.

Run the seal around, close the door and have one of you kids clean up the work area (and mop the blood, sweat and tears from the unit and the floor.

Removed top,removed hose from inlet valve to washer,removed hot and cold inlet hoses and with phillips screwdriver removed water inlet valve assy and replaced. Reassembled and tested.

My order arrived 2 days after i ordered same. Excellent service from partselect, Thank You....

Open the door. Pull the clamp off of the boot (locate spring at bottom). Peel back the boot on the right side so that you can get to the door lock and switch assy. Remove the 2 screws in the front that hold in the door lock and switch assy. Remove the wires from the old assy. Transfer the wires to the new assy. Screw in the new assy. Refit the boot and clamp. give it a try.