11074413800 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

First used wet vac to get water out. Unplug electrical cord. Shut off water and unhook lines. Unhook drain tube. Flip over on side. Take belt cover off. two screws.
Took photos of parts removing just for re- install. Ordered parts from part select.com. Came in Two days. The dealer was on 12 days I gave up on them. I removed actuator two easy screws and pulled off electrical connection no tool needed. Then removed pump three longer screws Than other part. Make sure to label them in a ziplock baggie. Plus I removed hose clamp with pliers slide Back on hose and pull hose off. Then remove electrical connection on pump. If it makes you feel better label each with masking tape so I know where each connection goes. Then replace pump first with new one. Make sure you push it in hard then the screws. Don’t over tighten. Plastic parts break. Hook back up hose slide clamp back over fitting end with pliers. Hook up wire connector. Next hook up actuator. Two screws wire connector and your done. Put belt guard back on. Socks can get caught under washer get in belt and cause major issue. Then you need to reconnect water lines. Make sure hot goes to hot. Cold to cold. Drain hose hook back up. Plug in power cord. Now the fun part. Run a diagnostic and then calibration. See you tube videos it’s like 3 clicks to left then two to right with selector knob. Write down the exact amount of clicks and steps. It works. Be sure to turn knob 4 times to left to clear it like a combination lock. Don’t let the noises scare you it makes all
Kinds of sounds while calibration goes on.

Installed part, now it works great!

We watched a video on YouTube; it was very easy . We had to use the mounting bracket.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

Removed screws from top control panel. Tilted panel back. Unsnapped two retaining clips and pulled entire washer cover forward. Turned off water and uplugged washer. Disconnected hot and cold water supply. Disconnected supply tube from water inlet valve. Disconnected electrical hook-ups to water inlet valve. Removed water inletvalve. Installed new valve being careful to use new mounting plate supplied and making sure screw holes line up correctly. Re-connected all disconnects and it works like new!

The hardest part was removing the machine's cabinet. 2 screws on either end of the control panel, tip the control panel back out of the way and remove 2 clips, then slide the cabinet off the front. Replacing the valve was very easy. I didn't need the mounting plate that came with it. At first it looked like the screw hole wasn't going to line up with the hole in the back of the machine, but then I noticed that the valve had a groove that allowed it to slide downward on to the back. Pretty easy overall.

I am an old woman who is disabled and without any tools or knowledge, but sheer stubbornness and will power, I waited for my tools and other parts to come in, in the mean time I fixed my young neighbors whirlpool washer, well We took top off the nut I had already pre assembled her cam so set it in place of old one put bolt back in place and the top of agitator she says works perfectly now, my parts came in I had nothing to remove as my handicap daughter had already thrown away all the loose parts, I threw away old top agitator, assembled cam and put in place still did not feel tight enough so added seal from other nut!! it worked tight enough, put the inner part back in with new part and soap put the top back on and now works good as new, was disappointed could not put bottom agitator in place, just not strong enough lol well this was my story

Followed the instructions. Removed two screws on front panel, flipped it up and popped up the retainer clips. Tipped the washer body forward. Unscrewed the old valve and replaced with the new. Reversed the previous procedures and put the whole thing back together. I had put up with this low flowing water for a couple years. Now it fills like new!

Unplugged it. Removed the two screws holding the panel on. This model had the screws on the front. Unplugged the wire harness and tipped the control panel back. I popped off the clips for the cabinet and slid it off the frame. On the back of the washing machine, I unscrewed two screws that held the water inlet valve in place. I unhooked the two wire harnesses on the inlet valve. Slid the clamp on the small hose back and pulled the hose off the inlet valve. Once I had the old part off, it was just a matter of doing it all in reverse. I did have to screw the metal plate that came with the part onto the part before I installed it. I put the small hose onto the new inlet valve and slid the clamp back in place on the hose. Put the new valve through the holes on the back of the machine, and replaced the two screws. Click the two wire harnesses back on, making sure to put the RED harness on the HOT valve (the holes have the stamp H and C on the back of the machine itself. Slid the cabinet back into place. Put the wire harness back on. Replaced the cabinet retainer clips. Slid the control panel back into the slots and replaced the two screws for it. That was it. All told it took me 15 minutes total. This was an extremely easy repair.

Move dryer away from wall. Unplug the dryer. Open the hinge top from the front edges of dryer. Remove the two screws holding the filter channel onto the top of dryer. Lean the top of dryer back away from the front . Open the dryer door, Locate switch from the top looking into the dryer top opening where you have just leaning the top back out of your way. Unplug the wire from the old switch. remove the old switch and bracket using the flat blade screwdriver for screw removal.
Place the wire on the new switch using the normally open contacts. place switch on bracket and gently position the bracket and switch over the holes designed for the switch and tighten screws using the new Phillips head screws sent with the new switch. place the top back into place and replace the filter channel screws plug in the dryer and job finished. easy as 1-2-3

First I unscrewed two screws holding the back panel. Unscrewed the screws holding the water valve onto the back panel. With a screwdriver, pried the panel out far enough to pull the old water inlet valve out. Remove the connections on the old valve and replace with the new one. Screw everything back together. Fairly easy repair. Cold water flows like new and the noise is gone. Hope to get another few years out of the washer for this $25 fix.

Simple repair. Unplugged power cord, turned off water spigots. Removed the two screws under the control panel and rotated it up and back out of the way. Popped the two retaining clips (that's much easier now that I know to simply stick a large screwdriver straight down vertically into the front portion of the clip and lean the screwdriver back, rather than try to pry the clip out by levering under it against the washer top) holding the main body panel to the front of the washer and tilted it forward but not all the way off.

That allowed plenty of room to get at the back panel where the valve assembly is. There is some sort of plastic tray over the top of the valves that's kinda in the way so I popped it out by squeezing its plastic retaining barb with needle nose pliers and forcing it back thru the metal panel. Two screws hold the valve assembly on, and of course the water supply hoses are on one side and the fill hoses on the other. Removed and placed them on the new valve in order

The replacement part comes with a mounting plate and is not an exact duplicate. I screwed the assembly to the plate, but the holes in the plate don't line up perfectly enough to allow a second screw to be used. I could have drilled in a new one if I was willing to move the washer even farther out but a single screw holds it plenty well enough for me. Be sure to attach the correct electrical connectors and water lines to the new valves.

Reassemble in reverse order BUT TAKE CARE NOT TO PINCH THE CLEAR PLASTIC TUBE that runs from the water level switch down behind the control panel when you rotate the control panel back into position. I watched my washer fill almost to overflowing before realizing something was wrong. After 2-3 unsuccessful examinations I finally realized the tube was caught between two panels of metal and the controls were not recieving the "I'm full" signal from the wash tub. That would have been a mess if I hadn't watched a wash cycle to double-check my work.

My washer sounds brand new and fills faster. $30 shipped and an hour of work.

Stopped by a friend who is an appliance repair person. He walked me through the Roper repair.
Removed the two screws, pulled the control panel up and back, disconnected the two wires. Sprung the two clips with a large screwdriver. That gave me the room I needed to do the repair. The hardest part was lining up the cover to go back on level. Part worked perfect, everyone was happy.

Shut off both water valves and used a cup to catch water from hoses. Removed top control panel that's held on with 2 phillips screws. Remove top screws on the back to gain access. Was able to access the valve by pulling slightly out on the top corner.

It was fairly easy a few tight spaces to reach in but all in all it was pretty straight forward