11047086602 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Removed top of washer and replaced flow meter.

repair was a cake-walk with the video there to help.Thanx

Old belt and new belt were not exactly the same. did research and deturminded that the new belt was correct. Reomoved the back panel and rolled the old belt off. Pully is designed to allow changing of the belt without taking the pully off. Put new belt on the motor pully ensuring it was in the groves. started belt on the drum pully and turned it untill it was tight. With an open hand I held the belt on the drum pully so it would not slip off and gave the drum a quick turn to jump the belt onto the pully. rotated the system several turns to make sure everything tracked correctly. Replaced the back panel.

Unplug the power first.If you can lean the washer bank and support it with something underneath to make it easier to work on.Removed the 3 bolts at the bottom panel underneath the front door. Pump is right there in front. Unplug the power connection first,you can also remove the wiring that is right in front of the pump so it will be out of the way. remove the pump from it mounting grommets and pull it out a Little so you can get to the hoses at the back of the pump. Using pliers to pull of the hose clamps you can pull off the hoses. Now you can remove the pump out. Do everything in reverse and that's it. I found it to be easier than I thought and took less then 20 mins.

I followed the instructions and it was surprisingly simple. Glad I didn't call the "handy-man" since it was easy to do it myself as a handy-woman!

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.

Greatest difficulty was positioning machine to get at rear. Disconnected inlet hoses. Removed rear 3 screws to remove cabinet top. Removed rear holding screw to inlet valve. Removed two electrical connections to inlet valve. Disconnected inlet valve from interior hose. Reversed process to install new inlet valve.

The repair was easy. It took 15-20 min to replace the valve at the most. Three screws on the back and the top comes off. The valve is right there on top. Undid water hoses and then one screw and one clamp to remove the valve. So simple and problem resolved. I also took this opportunity to replace the water hoses (they were over 7 years old) since I had to take them off anyway.

I removed the old pump and replaced it with the new one. I am the happiest person on earth right now to have my washing machine working at its best again. Thank you so much.

Replaced water pump

Disconnected the water supply lines. Removed four screws holding the top to back frame. Removed the top. Disconnected the electrical valve connections. Removed the valve set mounting screw. Removed the valve set and replaced. Reversed the steps above for installation.

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.

Disconnect the hot and cold water supply hoses from the rear of the machine. Remove 3 screws in the rear that fasten the top cover. Slide the cover rearward and remove it. Disconnect the black outlet hose and unsnap the two electrical connectors from the water valve. Remove one screw that fastens the water valve to the rear panel. Slide the water valve away from the screw and remove it. Reverse this procedure to install the new valve.

Of course the machine was not plugged in & water valves where off. I took water hoses off. Then i took 3 screws off the back of lid & slid lid back & lifted it off. I then unplugged two wires going to valve. I then took water hose going to valve off. Last there is one bolt holding valve to machine & in the mechanic industry we call this bolt a star head, so it was a good thing I had this tool. So if you do this repair you will have to get this tool. This job is easy to do & Part Select was 100% on my order & shipping! I will order again when something brakes again !!! Thank's

After diagnosing codes noticed no drain replaced pump asm