41744082400 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

First unplug the machine, then remove two srews on the back of the machine for the top cover. Remove top cover and then remove two srews that hold the door locking part. Put your hand in the machine and grab the part. unplug the three wire harnessess then plug them back and put back in place and put the two srews back and then the top cover and two srews as well.

It was a very easy fix. Called a repairman and they wanted 350.00 to come out. Ordered the door lock and switch assembly for 76.00 and it was fixed in 15 minutes. Thank you for shipping the part so fast. Much appreciated.

First I removed the two screws that hold the part in place. I then pulled the part out about 3 inches and disconnected the three wires from the part and put the new one in

Remove top of washer, remove door lock assembly,install new assembly replace top.

Remove screws take off striker .Put striker back on with screws back on

Tighten screws. Took 5 minutes

Very basic replacement- 2 screws in and out. The part did not come with screws to be sure to save them if you remove the broken part ahead of time to make the process smoother.

love parts select have used them several times for parts great company

My shocks on the washer were broken, in part because of age, the other is broken spider drum inside the barrel. Was very easy to do the shocks. Unhook water connections and power. Move washer away from the wall. Remove the back cover from the washer. On the left side, you have to remove two screws from the electronics control box so you can gently move it out of the way. Then grab the plastic pin with some pliers and pull while depressing the locking lug on the end of the pin (Very important to depress the lock or you will have to buy new pins) Remove both pins for each shock. I used some high pressure grease on the pins when I put it all back together. Was a quick fix. Unfortunately had to take it all back apart as this was only a small part of my issue with having the stainless drum being broken inside.

Removed front panel, used socket to compress lock tab on plastic pins holding shocks. Still taks a little effort to get them out. The one behind a plastic drain canister is a proble as there doesn't seem to be a good method for moving that canister. I think that's why the spare pin is provided.

Sadly, my case was one of the lower percentage where the problem is in the rear bearing area. The shocks were, the top support springs were good but the rear of the washer drum was shot. Opted to replace with new washer rather than go through the much longer repair with the almost $300 in parts.

removed front panel and used deep socket to remove pins that hold shocks. front left shock took most of the time because of hoses and a unit in the back that needed to be released to be able to remove the pin on the bottom. the right shock was a piece of cake to replace. used a hammer to pull the pins into place (i did not use it to tap on them ) . lots of bloddy fingers from sharp edges.

As others have mentioned, it was pretty straight forward although a bit finicky to get into the tight spots to press out the pins. The little piece of 1x4 block helped press the pins back in. For the right side shock, I had to undo the large rubber hose at the bottom of the drum and also had to remove the sheet metal shield in the back to allow clearance for the pin to come out. There's only 2 screws holding it in so again, not too hard to do.

replaced the two shocks with the new ones by removing the pins that held the old ones in place.

Removed old shock abs. (both sides). The one side, I had to remove the speed control board to access the lower nut on the one shock. Install was fairly easy however, it did not fix the washer. Apparently there was something else (either a switch, the control board or the motor) needs replaced too.

I removed the front access cover and the rear cover. It was also necessary to remove the water level sensor (attached to the tub drain hose) to access one of the shocks. Not having a 1/2" deep socket, I used a 2" piece of 1/2" copper pipe to depress the locking tab on the shock attachment pins--worked great. Pulled the pins out with pliers. Putting the pins back in after replacing the shocks was easiest to do using 'channel-lock' pliers to grab the bracket and the pin head and squeeze in the pin. The only problem was that my copper pipe piece fell into the drain hose when removing one of the pins! Had to take the drain hose loose to fish it out.

The parts came with instructions They stated to remove the front panel. This only gets to one side for a difficult repair. I removed the back panel then it was a snap. Easiest with two people.