11027532600 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Took off top by removing bolt and screw. Switch came out with a twist!

Completely dismantled washer per video , replaced gasket and spanner nut, then re-assembled washer. I’m a 58 year old female. It was tough. Main issue was that video was for dif. Model washer. Had to figure out some things myself.

After removing the bolt (7/16" head), and using a pair of pliers to remove the 3-4 in deep "cup", it was immediately obvious how to assemble the new cup and pawls (ratchets).

Orienting the black "bearing" was not so obvious, but on closer inspection of the illustration, it became clear. The four "ears" of the bearing go closest to the pawls. The little tabs that are co-planar to the ears fit into the four grooves of the new cup.

And here's the trick (besides making REALLY, REALLY SURE how the pawls orient)--Soak the black bearing piece in hot water to soften it up, and let it slide over the cup better. If you don't, you risk breaking it. If you do, it slides over and "clicjs" into place, with the ears resting right against the bottom lip of the cup, capturing the pawls.

Installation back into the washer is obvious.

The thing works like a charm! It hasn't worked this well for a decade!

I followed instructions provided from Parts Select for removing and replacing the coupler assembly, and also instructions for changing the clutch assembly. I also took it's transmission apart (socket set and flat screwdriver required), drained the old oil, cleaned it, added new 90W gear oil. The instructions covered the swapping of parts very well. Cleaning up the oil spill took as long as changing the parts.

While taking apart my washing machine to clean the plastic basket I discovered the 3 main seals down the agitator were completely disintegrated and water was leaking onto the motor and onto the floor. The seals are a tight fit but slide into place easily with lubrication. When putting everything back together a bit of lubrication will be necessary as well. The leak is gone and my nearly 30 year old washer is working as well as the day it came off of the assembly line.

First, I wrestled off the top cap of the agitator. Then, I unscrewed the bolt and took out the cam. I noticed that the agitator dogs were worn smooth. I replaced them, put it all back together and VOILA! I bought the whole agitator kit, not knowing what I was going to find, because I wasn't a Magtag repair woman. It ended up that the cam that came in the kit was too big for my washer anyway. Luckily, all I needed was 4 plastic dogs. The price of the whole kit was so inexpensive anyway, it was no big deal. Especially because, I was looking to buy a new washer or a big repair bill. This website is great! Thank you.

Tilt machine on its side,snap off the two retaining straps and remove the pump and sanded the shaft on the electric drive motor to remove rust ,Install new pump and retaining straps and unit now running great.

Took the agitator out and gearbox off unhook wires from motor and take off water pump, replaced the parts and put back together. Pretty easy to fix. However, I still haven't got my problem fixed. Originally the washer wouldn't spin after the rinse. I put on a new coupler and it worked for a few loads, then something smelled hot and started stinkin the house up so I opened the washer lid and smoke rolled out. Turned it off. Took the moter off and checked it and it would barely turn at all. Replaced the motor with a new one. Still wouldn't spin. Put on a new clutch assembly. Still wouldn't spin. Bought a new capacitor thinking that would do it. Still don't SPIN!!! (The ring and washer I replaced was just a casualty, not any of the problem).

First I removed the plastic panels on each side the control panel. Each side was secured by a phillips screw. Once the screws were removed the side panels were easily removed. I tilted the panel back to the rear of the washing machine to expose the lid switch. I first took a picture with my camera phone to ensure installing the switch correctly. I removed a small screw that secured a green ground wire. The lid switch was removed by lifting the plastic catch with a flathead (or slot) screwdriver and uplugging the switch. Reverse the steps and install the new switch. Secure and tighten the green ground wire. The lid must be lifted to properly seat the lid's guide arm into the lid switch. Replace the side panels and tighten the phillip screws. Test the wash cycle using a low water level. It took me 5 minutes to install this part. I am a attorney not a mechanic.

I thought that the lid switch was the problem why the washer would not perform the drain or spin cycle. I broke the lid switch by moving the wires around. I rigged it so my daughter could use it by screwing a screw in the switch til the new one came in. After a few days, the machine stopped working again as stated above with the motor. I purchased a new Whir-pool washer for her and later found a white wire that connects to the electric motor was burnt around the connector in that only one tiny wire was still attached. I reconnected the wire in the connector and the washer started working again.

Unplugged the appliance. turned off inlet water and removed hoses. popped the cap off hiding the bolt that keeps the agitator in place and pulled the agitator off. tipped the washer on its front . disconnected the Wire harness. removed the 3 bolts that hold the pump, motor,clutch, (drive assembly in other words). pulled the Drive assembly out of its resting spot removed the bad clutch and replaced it with the new one. then reassembled in reverse order.

placed washer on side and installed new pads
and returned washer upright

First unplug the washing machine.
Then used a putty knife pushed under the endcap area to release the clips holding the top console down, then lifted the front of the console and tipped it back. Held it in that position with a short piece of wood.

The lid switch was visible right there on the left. Then unplugged the switch, removed the metal screw holding the ground wire, pressed the locking tab on the switch, lifted the washer lid about 3 or 4 inches, and removed the switch. Installation was the reverse procedure. Total time about 10 to 15 minutes.

Took an educated guess it was the lid switch and after playing with the switch got it to work. Ordered new switch. The hard part was to find the model number and thanks to customer service sticking with we. we found the info and was able to come up with a part number. Re placing the switch is very easy but I had to remove the cast after trying to open the machine the wrong way. So a little body work. I also found the frame was cracked and with a fender washer on the other side of the front feet was able to fix that. Washer run great a lot is a lot quieter.THANKS!!

3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.