11047086601 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

The difficult part was getting the water from the washer without making a huge mess. I used a shop vac loosened the cover on the filter/strainer assembly use the shop vac to suck up the water before spills all over. if the tub is full I dumped my shop vac twice total. 1 Remove pedestal drawer 2 removed lower cover to expose mechanicals and pump assembly 3 vac out the water by using above procedure. 4 rotate hose clamps to a position where you can get the needle vice grip on them/remove hose clamps. 5 lift cover exposing electrical connections on the pump assembly depress tab slide connector out. 6 remove 1 torx head screw securing pump to base of washer. 7 remove pump assembly. 8 Reinstall in reverse of above instruction. I also took the lower tub hose off and washed, bleached along with hot water to. clean it

Opened lower front panel to access the motor controller. Took a picture of the wiring attached to the front of the controller. Removed two wiring harnesses and one wire with a retainer clip. Removed the faulty controller. Inserted the new controller, replaced the wiring, using the picture to insure correct positioning (although that really wasn't necessary because the wiring clips could probably only be put in the correct places). Replaced the front cover, plugged in the washer and fired it up.

Took the outer ring off with the help of pliers just be careful. Push the bellow into the washer. We cleaned the area good at this time. Put the new bellow in being sure to keep the wrinkles out and securing it in place with the other clamp. Make sure to keep it lined up and wrinkle free to prevent leaks and possible tears later on. You will need the screwdriver to tighten the screws in the inner clamp.

A real novice at dyi. Found what the error code meant in the manual and google searched it online. Found Youtube video on repair and was successful in getting the washer to work a few times before the error code returned. Decided to replace the inlet valve and on your site took the advice of a previous user and also changed the flowmeter. Could not have been a better experience. Easy to find the correct parts for my model and got great tips...plus your shipping was excellent. Thanks!

i tore down the "tech use only" pamphlet from inside of the machine.i am an auto tech by the way. so i got into the onboard computer of my machine using this pamphlet.the machine's computer took over and went through a series of tests, which pointed me to the correct location of the problem.i acted on that info and replaced my water inlet valve. the actual code was " FH ".

pulled the front and top of the machine off, pulled off the old bellow, ordered the new bellow, and put the new bellow on. we looked on youtube.com for a video on repairing the machine.

Followed video, slowly. Was easier then I expected. Everything fit perfectly.

We hired a local repairman and he even had trouble . I would not suggest anyone trying this installation on their own. It took the repair guy an hour to do and he struggled. Not an eary installation

Found it impossible to get the bellow off the machine. Removed the front spring. Even tried to but off the bellow. No luck. Called repairman. He had to take off the front panel, door panel, and the top of the machine before he could remove the back spring/clamps.

Unplug washer. Open door. Look at the very bottom of the bellow and will see a spring that is connected to a small wire that runs around the bellow holding the outside on. Using a flat head screw driver insert it between the wire and bellow, pull down slighty. Grab the wire and gentley pull off. Now the outer part of the bellow will be free, pull it toward you, and off the water/soap despinser, then push it into the washer. Now look to the right side and you will see a screw head that is actully a big clamp ring around the bellow. This is the hardest part. Use a small rachet screw driver with a 7mm socket to lossen. Pull clamp off gently, you can now removwe the bellow. Put bellow back on in reverse. There will be a small tab on the bellow it goes to the top. Took about 2 hours.

The repair was easy. It took 15-20 min to replace the valve at the most. Three screws on the back and the top comes off. The valve is right there on top. Undid water hoses and then one screw and one clamp to remove the valve. So simple and problem resolved. I also took this opportunity to replace the water hoses (they were over 7 years old) since I had to take them off anyway.

Old belt and new belt were not exactly the same. did research and deturminded that the new belt was correct. Reomoved the back panel and rolled the old belt off. Pully is designed to allow changing of the belt without taking the pully off. Put new belt on the motor pully ensuring it was in the groves. started belt on the drum pully and turned it untill it was tight. With an open hand I held the belt on the drum pully so it would not slip off and gave the drum a quick turn to jump the belt onto the pully. rotated the system several turns to make sure everything tracked correctly. Replaced the back panel.

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.

Took old one off and put the new one on. Was very easy. Hardest part was disconnecting hose clamps, which was still easy

took front panel off. Pump is right there easy to work on. Used pliers to take 2 hose clamps off. Used star screw driver to take 2 screws off of pump and removed old pump. The Assemblely goes the same way but the drain hose coming off the tube is not very easy to get back on. Hose is flimsey and the stem, on the end of the drain pump isnt long enough to keep hose on while tring to slide hose clamp back on.