11045089404 Kenmore Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Martin from Kotzebue, AK
- Parts Used:
- 280187
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Pump not draining the water out.
First I made sure the washer was unplugged from the outlet and I took out 3 screws that held the front panel and removed it to get access to the pump.
I disconnected the electrical plug to the pump and there were 3 phillips head screws that held the pump in place that needed to removed. Pulled out the old pump and slide the new one in it's place with no prorblems. Tighten the 3 screws on and plugged it back in and away we went washing clothes again.
I disconnected the electrical plug to the pump and there were 3 phillips head screws that held the pump in place that needed to removed. Pulled out the old pump and slide the new one in it's place with no prorblems. Tighten the 3 screws on and plugged it back in and away we went washing clothes again.
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- Customer:
- David from Post Falls, ID
- Parts Used:
- WP8182634
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Door latch failed and would not lock
Took off bottom panel by removing 3 torx screws. Opened up door seal, removed three latch retaining screws, unplugged three wiring harnesses. Installed new latch and reinstalled in reverse order.
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- Customer:
- Paul from TARPON SPGS, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10822553
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Spring balanced tub violent shake on spin
Washer was on a 13 inch high platform I built for front.load Heat washer and dryer. Removed 3.screws from bottom of front panel and had access to all 4 shocks..front and rear. All shocks were unattachedeither at base or on tub. Easy to install all 3 from front without moving Mach. I figured if 1 or 2 shocks failed the violent.movement broke the other 2. Purrs like.a.kitten now. No bearing.or spring.damage.
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- Customer:
- Dennis from AUSTIN, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP8182862
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The inlet valve begins to restrict water flow into the washer based on normal calcium buildup. At a certain point, the washer will start giving an F20 error code indicating it is not getting enough water.
This is a straightforward replacement. Move the washer to an area where you can work on it. Unplug the washer from the wall. Turn off the water and disconnect the hot and cold water hoses at the washer. Remove the back of the washer. Slide out the top of the washer. Remove the small hose from the valve to the remainder of the washer. Disconnect the two control wires to the valve. Replace the valve. Replace the small water hose. Reconnect the wires. Replace the top and back of the washer. Connect the water back up. Plug in and try a test load. The water should flow fast enough to reach the back of the machine.
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- Customer:
- Helen from NASHUA, NH
- Parts Used:
- WP89503
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Leaking water inlet hoses.
Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.
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- Customer:
- FRANCIS from leesburg, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP8182634
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
door would not latch , and lights on front just flashed
1)I removed the bottom front panel,reached up the right side of the machine and pulled the manual release on the bottom of the latching mechanism.2)I then removed the top to the machine in order to gain access to the latch. 3)I removed three electrical connectors then the three mounting screws using a #15 Torx driver. I then reversed the reverse procedure to install the new latch. total time to do the job was less than half an hour. Machine works OK.
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- Customer:
- claude van from big sandy, TN
- Parts Used:
- WPW10388414
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
tub would not turn
take the back cover off and put belt on. the belt is a tight fit and requires sone effort, but can be done.
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- Customer:
- Daniel from WAKE FOREST, NC
- Parts Used:
- WP8182862
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Low water flow into dispenser and washer tub
Super simple repair, videos on this site were spot-on.
1. Turn off water, unplug washer, and disconnect the hoses from the back of the washer.
2. Remove the three T20 torx screws holding on the top of the washer, slide the top back about an inch, and lift off.
3. Remove the T20 torx screw holding the water valve to the back plate of the washer.
4. Using pliers, release the hose clamp on the outlet hose of the valve and slide it down about an inch.
5. Remove the old valve and attach the new one to the outlet hose. Reinstall the hose clamp.
6. Replace the screw that holds the valve to the back plate and reinstall the top of the washer. Reconnect hoses the the washer, turn on water, and plug back the washer back in.
7. Odds are, your water flow has been low for a while and the first cycle is going to flush a good bit of mildew and other gunk into the washer drum. Run a cleaning cycle with about 1/3 cup bleach through the washer prior to using.
Should be good to go!
1. Turn off water, unplug washer, and disconnect the hoses from the back of the washer.
2. Remove the three T20 torx screws holding on the top of the washer, slide the top back about an inch, and lift off.
3. Remove the T20 torx screw holding the water valve to the back plate of the washer.
4. Using pliers, release the hose clamp on the outlet hose of the valve and slide it down about an inch.
5. Remove the old valve and attach the new one to the outlet hose. Reinstall the hose clamp.
6. Replace the screw that holds the valve to the back plate and reinstall the top of the washer. Reconnect hoses the the washer, turn on water, and plug back the washer back in.
7. Odds are, your water flow has been low for a while and the first cycle is going to flush a good bit of mildew and other gunk into the washer drum. Run a cleaning cycle with about 1/3 cup bleach through the washer prior to using.
Should be good to go!
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- Customer:
- Francisco from DELTONA, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP8182862
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Tub filling when power was off due to inlet valve leak.
Followed instructions as shown on repair video at site.
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- Customer:
- Robert from GLENVILLE, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP8182119
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bellow was torn and water was leaking onto the floor
(These instructions improve on the excellent instructions provided by customer Franck from Anandale, Va.)
The first step is to remove the retainer wire and spring that holds the outside of the bellow in place.
To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. Look underneath of the front of the bellow on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will find a spring stretched about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or needle-nosed pliers to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.
The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.
Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. This is where the flashlight or worklight will be helpful. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, perhaps 5 turns on the nut. It is not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.
Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.
This next step takes a bit of dexterity because you need to slide both the bellows and the hose clamp into the machine with the triangular shaped tab on the bellow at the top as above. Unbend anything that might have bent on the clamp. Put a tiny bit of lube oil or Vaseline on the clamp screw thread to make it easier for your fingers to tighten it with the stubby screwdriver later. The hose clamp must go in now because once the bellow is slid over the detergent inlet tube the hose clamp can not be installed. Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force. I found that wetting it with water made it easier to slide the bellow over it.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.
With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop. Run your fingers around the entire bellow to be sure the clamp is seated in the channel on the bellow and that the bellow is against its backstop. This assures you won't have a bad leak upon your next wash.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.
Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. Now take the retainer wire and spring assembly and use it to clamp the bellow over the lip. After fitting the wire around
The first step is to remove the retainer wire and spring that holds the outside of the bellow in place.
To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. Look underneath of the front of the bellow on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will find a spring stretched about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or needle-nosed pliers to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.
The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.
Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. This is where the flashlight or worklight will be helpful. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, perhaps 5 turns on the nut. It is not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.
Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.
This next step takes a bit of dexterity because you need to slide both the bellows and the hose clamp into the machine with the triangular shaped tab on the bellow at the top as above. Unbend anything that might have bent on the clamp. Put a tiny bit of lube oil or Vaseline on the clamp screw thread to make it easier for your fingers to tighten it with the stubby screwdriver later. The hose clamp must go in now because once the bellow is slid over the detergent inlet tube the hose clamp can not be installed. Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force. I found that wetting it with water made it easier to slide the bellow over it.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.
With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop. Run your fingers around the entire bellow to be sure the clamp is seated in the channel on the bellow and that the bellow is against its backstop. This assures you won't have a bad leak upon your next wash.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.
Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. Now take the retainer wire and spring assembly and use it to clamp the bellow over the lip. After fitting the wire around
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- Customer:
- scott from DENVER, NC
- Parts Used:
- WP8182233
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
One of my baffles just came off during a wash, one of the plastic clps that hold it in place dry rottedafter 10 years
Real easy , the baffle goes in only one way , use the others as guide as too which side the taller end goes.
With one hand pushing in the center of the back of the basket , pushing back , simply place and slide baffle towards you with other hand , there will be a crisp snap as it slide in to place.
With one hand pushing in the center of the back of the basket , pushing back , simply place and slide baffle towards you with other hand , there will be a crisp snap as it slide in to place.
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- Customer:
- Gerald from Douglas, AL
- Parts Used:
- WP8182119
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replace Bellows between door and tub
Remove top and front
Care taken to unplug door wiring
should have taken notes or photos where srews go and order
remove old bellows large hose clamp and sping tensioned clip
clean surfaces
install new bellows on tub only
put all panels and door together
Connecting wiring to door and strain relief takes 2 people
connect bellows to door with spring clip
Care taken to unplug door wiring
should have taken notes or photos where srews go and order
remove old bellows large hose clamp and sping tensioned clip
clean surfaces
install new bellows on tub only
put all panels and door together
Connecting wiring to door and strain relief takes 2 people
connect bellows to door with spring clip
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- Customer:
- john from YARDLEY, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10110225, WP8182862
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
Inlet valve was stuck in open position allowing washer to fill with water when not in use.
Removed lid. Took old parts off and replaced with new parts. Also replaced hoses while washer was moved away from wall.
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- Customer:
- Darrell from Lady Lake, FL
- Parts Used:
- 280187
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Pump not working
Replaced pump
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- Customer:
- Keith from Amherst, OH
- Parts Used:
- WP8182634
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Washing machine wouldn't run. Kept making buzzing sound and didn't show door latched.
Removed the 3 screws that hold the bottom front panel in place. Removed the 3 screws that hold the door latch in place and pulled out on the bottom of the door which wasn't very much and slid the door latch out to get to the wire connections. Connected the wires to the new latch and pulled out bottom again and put the latch back into place and put the 3 screws back in. Note: make sure you unplug the washer so you don't have a chance to get shocked. Level of difficulty was pretty easy.
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