11047091602 Kenmore Washer - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Paul from TARPON SPGS, FL
- Parts Used:
- W10822553
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Spring balanced tub violent shake on spin
Washer was on a 13 inch high platform I built for front.load Heat washer and dryer. Removed 3.screws from bottom of front panel and had access to all 4 shocks..front and rear. All shocks were unattachedeither at base or on tub. Easy to install all 3 from front without moving Mach. I figured if 1 or 2 shocks failed the violent.movement broke the other 2. Purrs like.a.kitten now. No bearing.or spring.damage.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Helen from NASHUA, NH
- Parts Used:
- WP89503
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Leaking water inlet hoses.
Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Francisco from DELTONA, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP8182862
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Tub filling when power was off due to inlet valve leak.
Followed instructions as shown on repair video at site.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Dennis from AUSTIN, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP8182862
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The inlet valve begins to restrict water flow into the washer based on normal calcium buildup. At a certain point, the washer will start giving an F20 error code indicating it is not getting enough water.
This is a straightforward replacement. Move the washer to an area where you can work on it. Unplug the washer from the wall. Turn off the water and disconnect the hot and cold water hoses at the washer. Remove the back of the washer. Slide out the top of the washer. Remove the small hose from the valve to the remainder of the washer. Disconnect the two control wires to the valve. Replace the valve. Replace the small water hose. Reconnect the wires. Replace the top and back of the washer. Connect the water back up. Plug in and try a test load. The water should flow fast enough to reach the back of the machine.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Anthony from JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP8183202
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Broken hinge
Removed door from washer, remove hinge from door. Then slip in hinge and tighten hinge to door. Then attach door. It works and the most important thing the wife is happy
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Gerald from Douglas, AL
- Parts Used:
- WP8182119
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replace Bellows between door and tub
Remove top and front
Care taken to unplug door wiring
should have taken notes or photos where srews go and order
remove old bellows large hose clamp and sping tensioned clip
clean surfaces
install new bellows on tub only
put all panels and door together
Connecting wiring to door and strain relief takes 2 people
connect bellows to door with spring clip
Care taken to unplug door wiring
should have taken notes or photos where srews go and order
remove old bellows large hose clamp and sping tensioned clip
clean surfaces
install new bellows on tub only
put all panels and door together
Connecting wiring to door and strain relief takes 2 people
connect bellows to door with spring clip
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- anthony from EASTPOINTE, MI
- Parts Used:
- WPW10003250
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
I was getting a sewer smell when the washer drained I did every cleaning technique and didn't solve the problem then I cleaned the inside drain hose and that helped so I replaced the hose and problem solved.
I removed the back panel to access the top end of the hose then I removed the lower front panel to access the lower end of the hose that attaches to the pump. The hose is secured with spring clamps and they were removed with pliers, the panels are secured with screws.
I replaced the hose and reinstalled the panels and I was done.
I replaced the hose and reinstalled the panels and I was done.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Lindsey from STEWART MANOR, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP8183202
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Hinge broke
We read your you tube instruction and followed the video
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Darrell from Lady Lake, FL
- Parts Used:
- 280187
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Pump not working
Replaced pump
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Doug from ROCHESTER HLS, MI
- Parts Used:
- WPW10250572
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The part was made wrong and did not fit.
The plastic tabs were too large to fit into the washer's slotted hole in the washer cage. I initially bought this part from a PartSelect competitor and it was made wrong as well. Whirlpool themselves showed this part on back order so the faulty part originated in a Whirlpool order to a vendor. The reason for this reply is that PartSelect resolved this bad part issue within 2 hours and 1 phone call. The competitor has not resolved anything yet in 3 weeks and 5 emails with image proof.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- john from YARDLEY, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPW10110225, WP8182862
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
Inlet valve was stuck in open position allowing washer to fill with water when not in use.
Removed lid. Took old parts off and replaced with new parts. Also replaced hoses while washer was moved away from wall.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Robert from GLENVILLE, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP8182119
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Bellow was torn and water was leaking onto the floor
(These instructions improve on the excellent instructions provided by customer Franck from Anandale, Va.)
The first step is to remove the retainer wire and spring that holds the outside of the bellow in place.
To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. Look underneath of the front of the bellow on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will find a spring stretched about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or needle-nosed pliers to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.
The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.
Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. This is where the flashlight or worklight will be helpful. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, perhaps 5 turns on the nut. It is not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.
Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.
This next step takes a bit of dexterity because you need to slide both the bellows and the hose clamp into the machine with the triangular shaped tab on the bellow at the top as above. Unbend anything that might have bent on the clamp. Put a tiny bit of lube oil or Vaseline on the clamp screw thread to make it easier for your fingers to tighten it with the stubby screwdriver later. The hose clamp must go in now because once the bellow is slid over the detergent inlet tube the hose clamp can not be installed. Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force. I found that wetting it with water made it easier to slide the bellow over it.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.
With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop. Run your fingers around the entire bellow to be sure the clamp is seated in the channel on the bellow and that the bellow is against its backstop. This assures you won't have a bad leak upon your next wash.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.
Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. Now take the retainer wire and spring assembly and use it to clamp the bellow over the lip. After fitting the wire around
The first step is to remove the retainer wire and spring that holds the outside of the bellow in place.
To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. Look underneath of the front of the bellow on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will find a spring stretched about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or needle-nosed pliers to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.
The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.
Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. This is where the flashlight or worklight will be helpful. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, perhaps 5 turns on the nut. It is not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.
Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.
This next step takes a bit of dexterity because you need to slide both the bellows and the hose clamp into the machine with the triangular shaped tab on the bellow at the top as above. Unbend anything that might have bent on the clamp. Put a tiny bit of lube oil or Vaseline on the clamp screw thread to make it easier for your fingers to tighten it with the stubby screwdriver later. The hose clamp must go in now because once the bellow is slid over the detergent inlet tube the hose clamp can not be installed. Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force. I found that wetting it with water made it easier to slide the bellow over it.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.
With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop. Run your fingers around the entire bellow to be sure the clamp is seated in the channel on the bellow and that the bellow is against its backstop. This assures you won't have a bad leak upon your next wash.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.
Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. Now take the retainer wire and spring assembly and use it to clamp the bellow over the lip. After fitting the wire around
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- randy from HONEA PATH, SC
- Parts Used:
- WP8183202
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
broken hinge
remove door from washer and lay flat on a piece of cardboard remove 4 screws from door hinge and take out just enough screws both sides of hinge to remove hinge from pocket of door,careful not to put to much stress on glass and gasket when removing old hinge and replacing.
very simple
very simple
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- claude van from big sandy, TN
- Parts Used:
- WPW10388414
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
tub would not turn
take the back cover off and put belt on. the belt is a tight fit and requires sone effort, but can be done.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Daniel from WAKE FOREST, NC
- Parts Used:
- WP8182862
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Low water flow into dispenser and washer tub
Super simple repair, videos on this site were spot-on.
1. Turn off water, unplug washer, and disconnect the hoses from the back of the washer.
2. Remove the three T20 torx screws holding on the top of the washer, slide the top back about an inch, and lift off.
3. Remove the T20 torx screw holding the water valve to the back plate of the washer.
4. Using pliers, release the hose clamp on the outlet hose of the valve and slide it down about an inch.
5. Remove the old valve and attach the new one to the outlet hose. Reinstall the hose clamp.
6. Replace the screw that holds the valve to the back plate and reinstall the top of the washer. Reconnect hoses the the washer, turn on water, and plug back the washer back in.
7. Odds are, your water flow has been low for a while and the first cycle is going to flush a good bit of mildew and other gunk into the washer drum. Run a cleaning cycle with about 1/3 cup bleach through the washer prior to using.
Should be good to go!
1. Turn off water, unplug washer, and disconnect the hoses from the back of the washer.
2. Remove the three T20 torx screws holding on the top of the washer, slide the top back about an inch, and lift off.
3. Remove the T20 torx screw holding the water valve to the back plate of the washer.
4. Using pliers, release the hose clamp on the outlet hose of the valve and slide it down about an inch.
5. Remove the old valve and attach the new one to the outlet hose. Reinstall the hose clamp.
6. Replace the screw that holds the valve to the back plate and reinstall the top of the washer. Reconnect hoses the the washer, turn on water, and plug back the washer back in.
7. Odds are, your water flow has been low for a while and the first cycle is going to flush a good bit of mildew and other gunk into the washer drum. Run a cleaning cycle with about 1/3 cup bleach through the washer prior to using.
Should be good to go!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!