11045972404 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.

Followed the installation video instructions. Removed the washer top with a 1/4” nut driver torx bit. Shut off and unhooked the water lines to the washer. Took one screw off of the solenoid valve on the washer back. Removed the water line on the solenoid on the inside with a pair of pliers. Installed the new solenoid in reverse order. It took maybe 10 minutes to take off and replace. Very easy to do.

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

Water was slowly filling the wash tub and spilling out front of machine. Cause was the water inlet valve solenoid was not fully closing.

Turn off water to the machine
Unplug machine
Pull machine away from the wall
Remove the water inlet hoses.
At the back-top of the machine remove the three screws holding the top on.
Lift up top from the rear and remove it.
Disconnect the hose connected to the water inlet valve.
On the outside of the back panel remove the screw holding the water inlet valve.
Remove the water inlet valve.
Reverse the process to install the new valve

NOTE: in my case the hold in the back panel did not line up with the hole in the new water inlet valve. I drilled another hole.

First I removed the retainer ring that holds the outside bellows on the frame of the front washer.
I then pushed the bellows inside of the drum of the washing machine in-order to get to the clamp that holds the bellows on the inside of the drum. To pull the clump I had to use a stubby screwdriver and socket drive to loosen the clamp. Once the clamp is loosen I was able to pull the bellows off, of the drum and out of the washing machine. Installation was the reverse of removal.

2 clamps and its off, problem is if you have average size hands you will struggle in getting the back clamp on and off.

I purchased a new bellows from this site I followed their instructions. Just tricky getting the inner clamp on aligned and tightened.

place new baffle over slots in drum; move toward back of drum and snap in to place pressing down and moving toward front of drum

Followed directions as shown in your repair video, having done this for the first time it took a bit longer than a repairman would have but was able to git-r-done. The most difficult part was fitting the adjustable wire back around the front of the washer, in the video it is made to look really easy however in real life it is a little more difficult and could not be attached so easily and took quite a bit of time to make sure it was attached correctly. thank you for your help.

Lined the new one up with one hand;(cold beer in the other), snapped it to place, finished.

Inserted new baffle in washer and slide in place.

Pull spring wire on front. Remove large hose lamp at tub. Reinstall in reverse order.

It was fast and pretty easy to do.

Removed the outer spring with pliers. Pushed the bellow into the drum. Loosened the clamp on the bellow with a stub nose screwdriver. Removed the bellow. lined bellow up with soap fiting. Reversed procedure to reinstall.

disconect wayer inlet hoses.remove screws that hold the top cover. This will expose the water inlet valve. remove the defective valve and any other associated clamps,hose etc. test run for leaks.