11027087601 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

At the time that I received the order part, Me and my Wife and 15 years old Douther got on it. We removed the very top of the counter and replaced once at the time every supension rod cleaned nice and neat. then we put the top on it's place conected the water hoses pluged it in and it was ready to roll.

Well i watched a video on youtube that demonstrated the repair, and it seemed easy enough, so i ordered the parts which arrived quickly enough that we avoided a trip to the laundry mat, very cool! So i did just what they said to do, unplug machine, tape down the lid, use a putty knife to pop the retaining springs in front. I used a long screwdriver to hold up rod on top and then rotate the ball around and let the rod fall through, them i used a yard stick to pop out cup on bottom. I did have assistance holding the drum back so i could see, Then i reversed the process with a new rod. The only reason it took 30 min was i did not put the cups under the balls on top, because it didnt have them in the first place, i decided to put them in after then reading the instructions. The machine runs like new, and my wife is very happy!!

The rod kit fixed the issue. I cant really explain how I did it, because I dint know if I did it the right way.

need to get washer turned on side where you can work underneath the machine. This job is alot easy if you get where you can see good and have plenty of room to work. You have to unhoook the wire from the old pump and then take the two mounting screws off from there you unhook each hose by squeezing clamp together and sliding backwards away from pump. A pair of needle nose pliers can make this process easier if the clamps are turned in an hard to get to position. You mount the new pump the same way as taking off the damaged pump. Take a screwdriver to help you slide the clamps up onto the new pump makeing sure the sleeves are completely over the new pump fittings and the clamps are slid up evenly, so you want have any leaks. Then replaces wiring harness and mounting screws.

Easy repair. Went to You Tube and saw PartSelect video. The best instructions...should make a link from parts page to video of install. Also replaced Heat element on Dryer. Watched video first.

Pulled washer from back of wall and disconnected power source. I removed three screws in back that houses the ol motor control board. Also, I had to pull the front control knob off so that I could lift the cover to expose control board. I took several pictures of the motor control board before unplugging the wires just in case I forgot where the wires needed to go. Very simple process and had machine working within 15 minutes.

I removed the screws from old hinge that had broke. The piece came right out with ease. I slid the new hinge in to the hole that it went in. No struggles with ease. Lined up the screw holes and put the screws back in. Finished! Works like a charm.

I removed the screws holding the broken hinges and put the new hinges on. It only took a few minutes.

PLASTIC motor housing gets hot and become loose. causing bearing to spin and make noise . Replaced motor that was quick and simple by removing 3 screws and 2 hose clamps , pluged up motor and begain washing again with no problem . Just wish motor housing was not plastic .

Read the previous reviews and showed my son the diagram which he then replaced the part in about 15 minutes. No more hassle and works like a charm :)

took top off.2.replaced rods one at a time.placed top back on.very simple.evan got new bushings for the top.very simple process.no skills required.

First off always remember to empty all pockets, coins etc ruin pumps.shut off water supply, unhooked water lines and drain into pan.tilted machine forward so i could work on pump which is located lower left. drain pan under pump area, removed 2 rubber water hose's 3 5/16 screws with nut driver. Very carefully un clip rear of housing and removed wire harness. installed new pump

Had to dig a little to find what error code "F1" really meant. Thanks to the Internet. Paperwork with machine advises to call a technician. Once I discovered what the error code indicated, I followed the instructions and removed and replaced the controller. Although it was expensive I didn't have to pay for any labor. Machine now functions normally.

Unplug washer. Use scraper to depress spring steel catches under top cover of cabinet. Raise and support cover. Remove lock mechanism from cover using nut driver and remove switch and cable from spring tension clips. The last cable stay is zip tie/plug; pry it from hole in cover. Don't worry about saving this cable stay as the new switch has one pre installed. Before lowering cover place an object such as a rolled up towel over the cabinet spring catches to prevent engagement. Then lower cover. Locate two screw on back of control panel and remove with nut driver. Just below control panel on back side of cabinet is a single screw securing a small cover plate. Remove screw and plate. Lift control panel and turn it over. Locate plug for the latch switch and disconnect it. Then set control panel back in place. Raise and support top of washer again and pull faulty switch and cable assembly from washer. Attach new switch assembly to top cover and place cable into spring clip and insert plastic cable stay into hole. Route the connector through the opening the faulty one was pulled from. You may now close the top of the washer. Lift and turn over control panel connect new switch plug and set control panel back in place. Replace screws on back of panel and the small cover and screw. Plug washer power cord in and you should be done.

The instructions displayed the parts location and and some instruction. The top of the unit will release and pivot up after the two catches at the front are presed in at the front seam. The catches are located about 6 inches in from the sides. Before lifting the top though you should secure the lid to the top. I used some masking tape. Pivot the top up and brace the top to prevent it from falling back too far or forward over your work access. I leaned the top back against the wall behind the washer. Once the top was secure I began by lifting one conner of the tub assembly so that a corner dampner assembly could be removed. The top of the dampener assembly has a loop which grabes the plastic cup at the top frame of the washer. Lift the tub assembly (about 30lbs) on one corner and as the hook becomes free rotate the plastic cup to disengage the hook from the cup. To make it easier to work inside the washer frame I used the bar clamp to hold the tub asembly to one side so that I could reach along the damper assembly to pop loose the top retainer at the tub by pushing down with a screwdriver. Once the dampener assembly was loose it can be removed and the new one inserted in its place. I repeated these steps for each dampener and was done in about 30 minutes. You may want to note there is a wire clip on the right rear dampener and this was easily removed and reinstalled on the new assembly.