11028087700 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I wasn't able to turn the washer on it's side or front, and instead had to prop it slightly up on cinder blocks due to the configuration of my laundry room. The actual repair was fairly simple, had the clamps supplied been easy to manuever, but they were not. The clamp that goes around the hose from the pump into the inlet valve wouldn't go down around the valve where it was supposed to. I had it too far up, so when I ran the washer, the whole hose popped out and flooded my laundry room. My husband suggested a better clamp, the type that actually opens and you can tighten with a screw system. $2.16 at Lowes. 2nd attempt at repair was successful, and so far no leaks. So...save yourself some time and when you get the replacement pump, take those clamps over to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a clamp that you can open fully, slip over the valve, and tighten as much as you need. If I had that type of clamp to begin with, this project would have taken an hour, tops. And by the way, I'm a 36 year old woman with NO experience fixing appliances, but plenty of experience paying other people too much money to fix things that never should have broken in the first place!

The most difficult problem was to identify where the leak was and I tried to repair the old pump but that was a waste of my time. I was most impressed with this company in how fast the order was taken and the perfect part was shipped to me. I received the part in approx. 30 hours after I placed the order. The part was delivered by FedExpress to my front door. A very reasonable price for the part. Anyway, most anyone could have done the repair that I did without difficulty.

Dismantled washer lid to install new locking mechanism.

First replaced four basket spring supports. Next tried Basket hub assembly ( which showed wear, but not total solution). Next replaced the rotation sensor that's on the stator. That finalized the issue.

I followed the video instructions provided. However, I used the hook on an old rod to pull the new rods through the corner holes in the top of the dryer. Simple invert the old rod and feed through the hole, hook onto the new rod and lift through the hole. It enabled me to lift the tub with one hand and put the plastic seat and new rod in place with the other hand. Too easy and sped up the repair job.

Pretty easy! Just follow this link on how to fix the problem:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-Hg8rLGiKQ

The hardest part on fixing this is trying to move the washer out of its place so I can tilt it to see underneath the washer where the repair would be.

This was a very easy cure for the problem,

Siphon break kit keeps washing machine from continuing to siphon after rinse/cycle -- like emptying a pool with a hose. Fixed the problem of the tub never filling due to siphon draining out water as it's being put in.

Removed the center cover of the agitator with a flathead. Removed the nut of the agitator main cover. Had trouble taking the cover off because of the crud holding it down I wiggled it up gently alternating n,s and e,w until I eventually saw it separating from the bottom of the basket. Once it came off you could see how nasty the old hub assembly looked. Took the screws off the old hub assembly and removed it. Matched it up with the correct new hub assembly cause the kit comes with 2. Cleaned the shaft and that general area. Installed the new hub assembly, replaced the covers. Ran the drain and spin cycle and it worked with no problem. There are videos on YouTube that show you too. DO NOT try to pry the agitator cover if it won’t rise up easily. Be patient and it will come out.

I purchased the suspension rod kit Installed it What it safe and easy job.
Excellent video thank you

Removed agitator and basket hub parts and cleaned all parts of agitator then replace basket hub with new basket hub kit according to video ran washer but did not solve problem

Turn off and unscrew hot -cold hoses and drain line. Unplug power and pull unit away from wall. Tip onto front of machine and lean it onto something that will give you enough room to work as the pump is on bottom left back of unit. Unscrew all back plate screw's and remove back panel and keep screw's handy. Three main screw's hold pump in place but loosen hose clamp's first and its out. Reverse what you just did and you should be good to go! Good Luck!!

Getting to the actual hub is a bit difficult as it involves removing the accetuator and takes some time and patience, but when I tried to replace with a new hub, I found that the screws were stripped, so PartSelect walked me through the ordering process and helped me choose the exact size screws that I needed. Parts came quickly...I already had the hub waiting to be secured and the screws tightened easily. (We had tried using a similar size, but you REALLY need the whirlpool screws that go in there) No more spinning problems, and the machine is not jumping around anymore. Works just like before. This particular machine has to have this part replaced at least twice a year (luckily it's cheap),but saves us from having to buy a whole new machine. My son also told me that since I replace the part so often, best to replace the screws every other time as well.

Have the Maytag washing machine little over2 years and the water pump cracked - very disappointed.
Anyway, removed the back panel, unhooked the hoses, used 5/16 wrench to loosen up the screws, unplugged the power connector than replaced it with a new water pump.

It was an easy repair that I taught my 18 yrs old.

Watched the video first thing really helpful. Unplugged the machine popped the top put the front left rod on first then right rear that had the clip for the pump hose then the left rear saved front right for last got pretty stiff and it was easier to get to than the rear ones. Put top back down checked level plugged back in and went to washing. Worked great so far.