11029692801 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

!. Removed agitator from inside
2.Removed outside cabinet
3 Removed pump, motor, and transmission.
4. Slid the entire drive unit out of the tub from the bottom
5. Removed the clutch assy. and installed new.
6. Reverseed the procedure to re-assemble.

Completely dismantled washer per video , replaced gasket and spanner nut, then re-assembled washer. I’m a 58 year old female. It was tough. Main issue was that video was for dif. Model washer. Had to figure out some things myself.

3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.

Unplugged the main power. Removed the 2 screws in the back and top of the control panel. Pulled control panel forward and tipped towards me to remove from top of washer. Removed the ground wire screw with a socket/ratchet. Removed the switch by pressing the tap inwards. The tab was brittle and broke. Replaced the switch, ground wire with screw and the control panel. I notice that the 2 screws which secure the switch lever/hinge to the lid were loose. These 2 loose screws were actually the problem in the first place. The loose lever was not making good contact with the switch. I think the switch was actually fine but since I broke the tab on the switch I needed to replace it anyhow. Plugged in power cord and washed a load.

I followed instructions provided from Parts Select for removing and replacing the coupler assembly, and also instructions for changing the clutch assembly. I also took it's transmission apart (socket set and flat screwdriver required), drained the old oil, cleaned it, added new 90W gear oil. The instructions covered the swapping of parts very well. Cleaning up the oil spill took as long as changing the parts.

Basically I followed the great instructions provided on the Part Select webpages. I would consider myself to have more common sense than mechanical skill. I didn't want to have to keep going back to purchase more parts so I decided to buy the motor coupler (under $5), new clutch assembly (Under $30), new motor (under $160). The shaft on the original motor wore down to a cylindrical shape which should have been more of a rectangular shape to fit precisely into the motor coupler and provide the grip strength for the washer tub to spin. Usually the no spin problem is linked to a faulty motor coupler. I was glad that I had to removed the motor to reach the motor coupler because in my case the coupler had not failed. That is when I saw the motor shaft had worn. Since I had all the new parts I replaced them all and since 6/13/19 the washer is running like new. Oh, the problem was most likely caused by someone in my family "overloading" the wash machine one too many times over 11 years. Guy's / Gal's you can do this and save yourself from buying a new washer for between $850 - $1,200. My repair expense was under $240 including tax and next day delivery of my parts. Thanks Part Select !!!! Neil

First unplug the washing machine.
Then used a putty knife pushed under the endcap area to release the clips holding the top console down, then lifted the front of the console and tipped it back. Held it in that position with a short piece of wood.

The lid switch was visible right there on the left. Then unplugged the switch, removed the metal screw holding the ground wire, pressed the locking tab on the switch, lifted the washer lid about 3 or 4 inches, and removed the switch. Installation was the reverse procedure. Total time about 10 to 15 minutes.

Removed four screws that hold the top control panel to the base and hung over the back panel in order to remove the main wrap-around body of the machine. Took off top plastic ring fastened to side of tub then removed old Balance ring. Installed new balance ring. Unfortunately, this did NOT fix the problem. This was a suggestion from Justanswer.com and failed miserably. Does anybody know how to fix this problem? And it's not the springs or the little plastic shims around the base OR the cross coupling to the motor...

We ordered both the motor coupling and the clutch assembly based on our troubleshooting, and because we figured both parts were inexpensive enough we might as well have them both. We initially thought it was the clutch assembly, but as we were taking the washing machine apart, we noticed that actually one of the bolts was missing completely and one had snapped in two. We then realized that the spin cycle problem was actually related to the instability of the motor because of the missing/broken bolts (they didn't even have washers!). All we had to do was replace the bolts and use a bolt extractor to get the broken bolt out, but we went ahead and replaced the clutch assembly as well for good measure. Everything ran perfectly after that! I was very skeptical to do the repair myself, but it really is easy, as long as you have someone with muscle to help out. You can also look up videos online that show you a step by step repair process for the clutch assembly, and I would highly recommend doing that so that you have a visual. It will make everything seem 100x easier.

Followed the excellent video instructions. They say you can perform the repair without removing the enclosure, but when I saw how easy it was to remove it, it definitely improves the access and speeds the repair. Have a piece of wire handy to to hold the pump assembly out of the way. Installed new clutch kit and it runs like a champ.

The repair was fairly simple and while it made the spin operation quieter and and a bit more stable, it still gets out of balance. Disconnected power, shutoff supply lines and disconnected them from the unit.

Laid washer on its front and replaced the two more visible springs fairly easily from underneath using a little leverage with a 2 x 4 to take any residual tension off the springs.

Then I turned the washer over on its back (gently and with a little support (board or old thick towel) so the weight of the unit didn't rest entirely on the water intake connectors

Again, lifted the tub with 2 x 4 and disconnected the power and control connector to the motor to make a little more room to get to the spring.

If you do this, be sure to re-connect that connector before you put the washer back and test, otherwise it will fill and then sit.... I had to siphon the tank out, disconnect everything, flip it over and re-connect that power connector!! After that the unit ran better than before, especially on the spin cycle. Over all this washer is 15 years old and worn a bit so we are still careful not to overload it and balance the loading as much as possible. Large bedspreads and king size sheets or mattress covers will always spin out of balance but for 90% of regular washing it was an improvement.

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

I watched the video from the web site, decided that pulling the whole case was more work than needed. I tipped the washer back at about 45 degrees so that I could get under it and braced it so that it would not fall back fwd. Put a medium cooking bowl under the pump, used a channel locks to remove the 2 spring clamps that where around the hoses and slide the hoses off and let the water drain into the bowl. Then used a medium straight slot screw driver to release the clips from each side of the pump and slid the pump off the shaft. If you turn the clips 90 degrees they will slip out and had to remove the upper clip to get the pump out. Lined up the pump and the shaft making sure that the flat side of shaft and pump lined up and slid it on. Reinstalled the pump clips and slid the hoses back on the pump slide the clamps back in place lowered the washer and test ran it for leaks. Great Job NO leaks. Whole job took me less than 30 minutes.

After removing the 2 phillips screws at the base of the control panel, I flipped the panel toward the back. Using a screwdriver, I popped off the spring clips, releasing the cabinet. I removed the 1/4" hex head screw on the spring mount and removed the old spring and replaced with the new. I repeated this with the other 2 springs. The spring bracket in the rear also holds the tub balancing spring. It is easily replaced while replacing the suspension spring.
If this didn't fix the problem, we were going shopping for a new washer. After this repair, it operates like new!

Remove the washer case/enclosure to expose all the internal parts. Lie on the floor and with pliers and a strong arm. Remove and replace each spring one at a time. Pretty straightforward.