11028072800 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Well i watched a video on youtube that demonstrated the repair, and it seemed easy enough, so i ordered the parts which arrived quickly enough that we avoided a trip to the laundry mat, very cool! So i did just what they said to do, unplug machine, tape down the lid, use a putty knife to pop the retaining springs in front. I used a long screwdriver to hold up rod on top and then rotate the ball around and let the rod fall through, them i used a yard stick to pop out cup on bottom. I did have assistance holding the drum back so i could see, Then i reversed the process with a new rod. The only reason it took 30 min was i did not put the cups under the balls on top, because it didnt have them in the first place, i decided to put them in after then reading the instructions. The machine runs like new, and my wife is very happy!!

Had to dig a little to find what error code "F1" really meant. Thanks to the Internet. Paperwork with machine advises to call a technician. Once I discovered what the error code indicated, I followed the instructions and removed and replaced the controller. Although it was expensive I didn't have to pay for any labor. Machine now functions normally.

Went to youtube.com and watched the video that took you step by step in replacing the lid lock assembly.

Replaced rods with new set of 4

Removed old tub assembly and installed new tub. Job took a little longer due to first new tub arrived damaged and I had to partially reassemble machine temporarily until second tub arrived.

Removed cover and removed rods,replacing them one at a time.

I disassembled the top half of the machine removed the drum and found a bad bearing. The code F51 said i had a bad motor control board. I had a frozen bearing on the main shaft. Freed up bearing, machine now runs but I need to replace the bearing,

Disconnect power and water. Remove the back panel of the washer. The drain pump is on the lower left corner (looking at the washer from the back). Access the electrical connection to the pump motor by lifting the lid where the wire enters the motor. You should be able to do this with your fingers and moderate pressure. Disconnect the electrical plug from the pump motor. Use pliers to remove the two hose clamps, one on the inlet and one on the outlet. Water may leak at this point so have some towels ready. Using a 5/16 wrench/nut driver, remove three hex head self threading bolds that connect the pump and motor to the underside of the tub. The replacement pump and motor go in in reverse order. Note that the replacement pump comes with a moisture shield. The shield installs on top of the new pump between the tub and the pump. It is difficult to see how the shield fits in place when fitting it to the replacement pump. The best way to see how the shield fits in place is to align it on the tub where the defective part was removed. Before testing the repaired washer, consider removing the inner tub and drain compartment cover (located at the bottom back of the inside of the washer). This takes some effort; however, it will save you from repeating this repair. Look for coins or other debris under the inner tub. For instructions on removing the inner tub and drain cover, go to youtube to watch or search for the model number and tub removal on your favorite search engine or youtube. Finally, use the spin and rinse cycle to test the repair. Look to see the pump drains the washer and ensure there are no leaks around any of the hose clamps. Good luck with your do it yourself home repair.

Pulled back off of washer. Removed Spring clamps from inlet and outlet of pump housing. Removed hoses. Removed three screws holding pump in place. Disconnected electrical plug connector. Reassembled in reverse order. Note: new pump had no isolators and pump motor cover looked like a rat had chewed it up; however, motor, pump, and hoses appeared to be new. Put it on without the motor cover and it works. Epoxied the old pump housing to seal it up and now have a spare.