11084416700 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Move dryer away from wall. Unplug the dryer. Open the hinge top from the front edges of dryer. Remove the two screws holding the filter channel onto the top of dryer. Lean the top of dryer back away from the front . Open the dryer door, Locate switch from the top looking into the dryer top opening where you have just leaning the top back out of your way. Unplug the wire from the old switch. remove the old switch and bracket using the flat blade screwdriver for screw removal.
Place the wire on the new switch using the normally open contacts. place switch on bracket and gently position the bracket and switch over the holes designed for the switch and tighten screws using the new Phillips head screws sent with the new switch. place the top back into place and replace the filter channel screws plug in the dryer and job finished. easy as 1-2-3

Unplugged it. Removed the two screws holding the panel on. This model had the screws on the front. Unplugged the wire harness and tipped the control panel back. I popped off the clips for the cabinet and slid it off the frame. On the back of the washing machine, I unscrewed two screws that held the water inlet valve in place. I unhooked the two wire harnesses on the inlet valve. Slid the clamp on the small hose back and pulled the hose off the inlet valve. Once I had the old part off, it was just a matter of doing it all in reverse. I did have to screw the metal plate that came with the part onto the part before I installed it. I put the small hose onto the new inlet valve and slid the clamp back in place on the hose. Put the new valve through the holes on the back of the machine, and replaced the two screws. Click the two wire harnesses back on, making sure to put the RED harness on the HOT valve (the holes have the stamp H and C on the back of the machine itself. Slid the cabinet back into place. Put the wire harness back on. Replaced the cabinet retainer clips. Slid the control panel back into the slots and replaced the two screws for it. That was it. All told it took me 15 minutes total. This was an extremely easy repair.

My dryer is 35 years old and thought this was it, but I googled the question and found out it was the door switch. Orderd the part and received it very fast and didn't want to wait for my husband to come home so I went on you tube and found a video how to open dryer and change switch. I did it in about 30 min. and yes it is now perfect again. No problems. I just unscrewed the old switch and put the new one in. Maybe I'll get another 35 years out of this machine. :o) Thanks for making it so easy.

replaced missing screw and pad and now machine works perfectly

Two screws holding top, unhook wire conector. remove cabinet,replace switch. Reassemble.

Removed two screws holding top control section on, and folded back the control panel. Removed two clips holding cabinet on, tipped cabinet toward me and off. Removed and replaced water valve, being careful to mark hot/cold hoses, and secure the internal hose to the valve with the spring clamp. Most difficult part was lining back up the cabinet when putting it back on the base, but a few minutes to line up tabs and get the front of the cabinet UNDER the front groove in the base got it secure. Works fine now.

It was fairly easy a few tight spaces to reach in but all in all it was pretty straight forward

1. Unplug washer, close hot and cold water supplies and remove water hoses from washer inlet valve.
2. Remove two screws at the bottom of the front of the control panel.
3 Remove two screws at the top of the back side of the control panel.
4. Remove control panel.
5. Remove two retainer clips that hold the back panel to the top of the cabinet by prying them out from the front with a large screwdriver. (Probably the most difficult part of the job.)
6. Use a socket or nut driver to remove the two screws that hold the valve to the back panel.
7. Lift the cabinet from the bottom rear and tilt the cabinet forward until you can access the valve.
8. Remove the wire harnesses from the hot and cold valves taking note of the wire orientation. (The red one will go back on the hot valve.)
9. Use pliers to open the hose retainer clip and slid the clip out of the way and remove the hose from the valve.
10. Reverse the process and you are done!

The replacement of the water inlet valve was not too difficult after reading the steps posted by others. The main step is to unscrew the top control panel first, remove the top 2 screws of the back panel, and you have easy access to the water inlet valve. No need to remove the entire back panel. Follow the instructions which accompany the replacement water inlet valve and you should have no problems. The washing machine now fills faster with the replaced water inlet valve. The replacement inlet valve arrived within 2 days of ordering! Thanks for the superfast shipment!

Initially, we thought the problem was in the water inlet valve and we changed it out. It went OK although the Kenmore almost fell apart after the removal of a few screws and the control unit.
Only thing was that it was unncessary. The real problem was not in the cold water turn on valve, but in the hose. The hose was special in that it was designed to shut off under emergency conditions. It appeared to be able to passs water when tested at my sink, but when connected to the washing machine and under presssure, it would not pass water. I had installed the part by this time so I left it there. I found the Kenmore washing machine rather flimsy in it's construction and tended to totally come apart once a few screws were removed.

unscrewed the back removd thr two screws for the element unhooked the hose to machiine unpluged the electric to element and than replaced new element and plugged electric to element and hooked back the hose and replaced screws too the back and replaced back an screws
titled wash machine up hooked hoses for the water and plugged electric and put drain hose back to drain done

unplug unit first Took water & drain hose loose, used two wheel dolly, took washer out on patio. Removed water hose. Removed two screws # 49 an laid back control unit then Removed 2 #6 Clips Top of unit, then pried back unit cover out enough to remove Water valve after removing #4 screw that holds unit to back panel ,removed hose clamp #21 an electric connections, install new water valve and put back together..DO NOT TAKE BOTTOM SCREWS FROM BACK PANEL, if so the bottom will drop.. Intake cold water valve was half stopped up. Also new water lines.

Replaced hinge switch. Still no spin cycle. Noticed hinge bearing cracked & if hinge forced into switch, spin activated. Ordered new hinge bearings.Spin cycle still didn't engage. On further examination, observed that hinge was bent. Straightened hinge & worked like a charm. Didn't really need new switch or bearings. NOTE : Avoid having washer door bang shut.Took longer than expected, but each procedure was simple.

The valve was easy to change, but we as homeowners should change the hot and cold hoses just like they say you should every 5 years. The hoses grew to the water valve and it was almost a disaster. After cutting the end with a dremmel and clamping visegrips on it I finally got it loose. After that it went smooth. Thanks for getting me the part so fast.

I just followed the instructions found on this website. It covered everything you need to know. I have just one thing to add though. Look over everything first and formulate a game plan. Keep all screws etc. and put them in a plastic bag so you don't lose them. You might try using a heavy hammer to force the clips holding the back panel to the top of the machine back in place. One more thing; use a piece of wood to set the back panel on while you replace the intake valve.