11081664800 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Watched the video on the website... and did what it said to do. It was VERY helpful... It did not fix the problem... so now I'm on to the next possible solution. Also, provided by the website. The valve was the problem 85% of the time. The water level switch is the problem 10% of the time. The water level switch is what I ordered next.
Ordering is EASY and delivery is fast with available tracking of the shipment. Very nice...! -Eddie Campbell

The instructional video that was attached with the part I purchased was spot on with very simple instructions. The inlet valve came with a metal bracket that was not needed for my model, so just tossed it. Was completed with replacement in about 30 minutes with help from my aspiring handywoman wife (would have taken 15 minutes without her)

On this model, no need to tip washer on back. Tilt console back and disconnect lid switch. Remove two clips holding back to top of washer (under console). Then remove top and front as directed in the video. The pump is accessible from the front of the unit, just below the tub. Hose clamps are easy to remove/replace. Took more time to wipe inside of washer clean than to remove/replace the water pump. Total time was just over 30 minutes.

EXACTLY as your video demonstrated.

1. Watch a video on installation, there are many on the internet.
(unplug the washer)
2. remove the screws on the back of the control panel to lift the control panel out of the way.
3. use a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips that hold the cabinet to the back panel.
4. disconnect the lid switch from the control panel by removing the clip that connects them at the top of the cabinet.
5. tilt the cabinet forward to remove it.
6. use a flat head screw driver to remove the two clips that hold the water pump to the motor and swing the water pump out of the way.
7. use a nut driver to remove the shipping screw that holds the clips on to the motor.
8. disconnect the wiring harness from the motor
9. remove the two clips from the motor with a flat head screwdriver and remove the motor
remove the three prong coupler and rubber gasket from the old motor and put them on the shaft of the new motor
10. remove the 4 rubber pads from the old motor and slide them onto the new motor.
11. insert the new motor into the washer aligning the prongs of the coupler.
12 reassemble the washer in reverse order of disassembly
(the shipping screw does not need to be reinserted into the spring clip that holds the motor)

Replaced the springs after watching the video's from this site and problem has been solved.

I just replaced the spring just like the vid show me.it run's like a new one-I bought it used about 5 yr's ago

First read up on what others did and tried to find free repair manual with little luck. Called repairman, they thought whole transmission was shot- would have been $70 just to have them look- forget it. Getting it apart: popped off the two console cosmetic panels to get to a screw on each side from the top. Lifted off console, levered and squeezed retaining clips. Unhooked two connectors and overflow tubing? Shell pulled off easily, getting back on after I was all done made me wonder if it was a good choice. In the end yes- allowed me to clean inside surfaces of both tubs to remove grime and rust. There are many stories on the actual clutch replacement, so won't go into too much detail but some lessons learned. Keep track of the way all the plastic aggitator pieces go in, plus the washers and clips along the way. Deep well 1/2" I think socket for the tub, it's litely spring loaded so look before you set it down. Punching off the nut on the tub worried me, but it was no big deal. Loosens and tightens the normal directions, no positive tight stop, just compression so pay attention to how tight and hard you pounded to get it off. Drain the water from the inner tub before getting too far. I took the four springs off and removed both tubs to clean. No more complaining about brown spots on clothes. Get the whole clutch kit, not just the band, even though it's probably just the band worn out. The plastic clutch engaging piece will probably be fatigued. The motor etc is heavy, and buffered it's drop with rags. tip on side when putting it back, because its a bear to try to lift up. I lightly greased some moving parts, just not much as to not cause band grip problems. The wire retaining clip is tricky- I put the hook end in first, used pliers to try and compress, and screwdriver to push down and in. The whole things wants to spin while you do this, but when it finally goes, it stays. I was concerned about the location of the band spring in relation to it's actuator when putting it together, but it turned out if you put it anywhere where the clutch is free to spin, it will engage normally. The top lid has two rubber bumpers, one fell off and landed on the front bottom corner of the cover which didn't help reinstallaion until my 8year old noticed it! Took a number of tries but finally got the four guides from the frame into the cover. I tried bringing it in level, front tipped sligthly up, front tipped slightly down; in the end I won't be much help, it just finally went. It wasn't as easy as most people said it would be, but my back hurt and I had kids "help", and it took just under two hours. Works amazingly well now. Parts arrived Two days after ordering, with no expiditing!

Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.

replace clutcher

researched the problem from the web-site.found the three most common things that would cause the problem.inspected the washer to see if there was evidence that one of the described parts had falled,and found that the tub wear pads were missing do to wear.simply replaced and it solved the problem. Thanks for the information.

Watched the video and followed the instructions. Everything went smoothly and the repair was done in under 15 minutes, less time than it took to mop up the water when it overflowed telling me that there was a problem.

removed two phillips screws from control panel. lifted panel to reveal two clips on both sides of machine. used flathead screwdriver to remove clips. tilted whole body up and away. pushed drum towards first spring and removed it . installation was reverse of procedure. did not fix it because basket had rusted at shaft bottom under agitator and put basket out of balance.

Purchased and installed PS1485646 COUPLING, MOTOR (Direct Drive Coupling). We googled "Washing Machine making a grinding noise. Several people suggested coupling probably broken. We located some instructions online regarding dis-assembly, sure enough,the coupling was broken. We ordered the part from Partselect.com. It arrived in three days, replaced the broken coupler. Washing machine back in business for around $20. Hooray! Thanks, Partselect!

Actually I had been out shopping , came home, and my husband suprised me by having it done.

The ease and quickness that we esperienced in ordering and recieving the part was quite remarkable.

We use all Sears appliances and they are all about 15 yrs old and still in very good service,

Other than the despenser... we had no other
operational problems.

It was the personal online help that was the most surprising.. what a great thought. They found my part and part # so quickly.