11044931301 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I removed the back panel to access the top end of the hose then I removed the lower front panel to access the lower end of the hose that attaches to the pump. The hose is secured with spring clamps and they were removed with pliers, the panels are secured with screws.

I replaced the hose and reinstalled the panels and I was done.

Remove top and front
Care taken to unplug door wiring
should have taken notes or photos where srews go and order
remove old bellows large hose clamp and sping tensioned clip
clean surfaces
install new bellows on tub only
put all panels and door together
Connecting wiring to door and strain relief takes 2 people
connect bellows to door with spring clip

(These instructions improve on the excellent instructions provided by customer Franck from Anandale, Va.)
The first step is to remove the retainer wire and spring that holds the outside of the bellow in place.
To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. Look underneath of the front of the bellow on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will find a spring stretched about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or needle-nosed pliers to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.

The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.

Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. This is where the flashlight or worklight will be helpful. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, perhaps 5 turns on the nut. It is not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.

Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.

This next step takes a bit of dexterity because you need to slide both the bellows and the hose clamp into the machine with the triangular shaped tab on the bellow at the top as above. Unbend anything that might have bent on the clamp. Put a tiny bit of lube oil or Vaseline on the clamp screw thread to make it easier for your fingers to tighten it with the stubby screwdriver later. The hose clamp must go in now because once the bellow is slid over the detergent inlet tube the hose clamp can not be installed. Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force. I found that wetting it with water made it easier to slide the bellow over it.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.
With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop. Run your fingers around the entire bellow to be sure the clamp is seated in the channel on the bellow and that the bellow is against its backstop. This assures you won't have a bad leak upon your next wash.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.

Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. Now take the retainer wire and spring assembly and use it to clamp the bellow over the lip. After fitting the wire around

Repair was very simple. First watch the video that is available on this website. The installation went exactly like the video described. I pulled the washer away from the wall a few inches. Removed the three screws that hold the top on. Removed the top. Shut off the water and removed the water lines. Removed the single screw that holds the inlet valve in place (T20 torx).Removed the inlet valve, removed the hose from the valve. Reversed the operation to re-install. About a 20 minute job, tops. Tested the washer when finished and it worked great. It has been a couple of weeks now and no water has accumulated in the drum.

We removed the front cover to the washer. Then we removed the drain pump piece that was broken. We put the new drain pump in and secured the screws. We also inspected all the hoses to make sure the hose clamps were intact. Then leaving the front cover off the machine to inspect for leaks we turned on the wash cycle. No more problems.

Easy to install.
Baffles came with 3 screws and no directions.
The screws unnecessary and we easily figured out how to install.
Quick delivery, 1-2 days.

Removed the 3 screws that hold the bottom front panel in place. Removed the 3 screws that hold the door latch in place and pulled out on the bottom of the door which wasn't very much and slid the door latch out to get to the wire connections. Connected the wires to the new latch and pulled out bottom again and put the latch back into place and put the 3 screws back in. Note: make sure you unplug the washer so you don't have a chance to get shocked. Level of difficulty was pretty easy.

Followed internet instructions

The baffles do push thru slots in the drum and by then pulling them towards you, it moves slightly locking them into place. There are screws supplied and they could be installed to aid in the baffles not coming off as ofter but this cannot by done by the average person for you would need special tools and allot of fixet smarts and patience. My washer can be set at a higher spinout speed and this does save on drying costs but the trade off is the baffles break off way too often. There are metal tabs in the drum that are raised up and snap behind tabs on the underside of the baffles as you slid them towards you install them. If you rebend these tabs up with a longnose pliers twice as high as they are, they will have more holding force, keeping the baffles from coming off as often. In my opinion, the baffles should have been designed to slide backwards to lock them in place, not foward. If you look at how they are shaped, they natually have pressure pushing them towards the back of the drum in the spin cycle which just contributes to the problem of them coming off in the first place.

firts remover the three bolts that held the front panel on, and removed that. Then removed the screw that held the pump in place. then removed the hoses from the pump. After that put hoses on new pump and srewed back in place . the put front back on.

Removed the three screws in the back took off the top and swamped out the part. I recommend that the inlet valve is checked periodically by removing the hoses to see if there's any build up on the filter.

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

UNPLUG WASHER ,SLIDE WASHER OUT FROM THE WALL. TAKE THE BACK OFF ,THEN TAKE PANET OFF IN THE FRONT. TWIST OLD SHOCKS ON THE TOP FIRST THEN TWIST BOTTOMS AND THE SHOCK WILL CUM OUT. PUT NEW SHOCK IN BOTTOM FIRST TWIST TILL YOU HEAR OR FEEL THE SHOCK SEAT ITSELF THEN INSTALL ON THE BOTOOM OF THE TUB.

Factory hose clamps were awkward to maneuver. I used automotive radiator hose clamps instead. They worked great.

1. After ordering I watched the video on the page for the part, the guy showed exactly what to do.
2. The day the part was to arrive I leaned the washer back and opened the lower front, based on the video on the page for the part, and removed the old shock absorber.
3. Part arrived, and I put in the new shock.
4. I ran a light load in the washer and it worked.
5. I put the washer back together and put in place.
6. I have since run a full load and it has worked well.

Note: In case I messed up the shock I was putting in, I bought 2 but did not need the 2nd one. I have kept it, just in case my 20 year old Whirlpool might need another one in the future.