11042922203 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

take the back cover off and put belt on. the belt is a tight fit and requires sone effort, but can be done.

(These instructions improve on the excellent instructions provided by customer Franck from Anandale, Va.)
The first step is to remove the retainer wire and spring that holds the outside of the bellow in place.
To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. Look underneath of the front of the bellow on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will find a spring stretched about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or needle-nosed pliers to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.

The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.

Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. This is where the flashlight or worklight will be helpful. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, perhaps 5 turns on the nut. It is not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.

Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.

This next step takes a bit of dexterity because you need to slide both the bellows and the hose clamp into the machine with the triangular shaped tab on the bellow at the top as above. Unbend anything that might have bent on the clamp. Put a tiny bit of lube oil or Vaseline on the clamp screw thread to make it easier for your fingers to tighten it with the stubby screwdriver later. The hose clamp must go in now because once the bellow is slid over the detergent inlet tube the hose clamp can not be installed. Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force. I found that wetting it with water made it easier to slide the bellow over it.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.
With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop. Run your fingers around the entire bellow to be sure the clamp is seated in the channel on the bellow and that the bellow is against its backstop. This assures you won't have a bad leak upon your next wash.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.

Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. Now take the retainer wire and spring assembly and use it to clamp the bellow over the lip. After fitting the wire around

1)I removed the bottom front panel,reached up the right side of the machine and pulled the manual release on the bottom of the latching mechanism.2)I then removed the top to the machine in order to gain access to the latch. 3)I removed three electrical connectors then the three mounting screws using a #15 Torx driver. I then reversed the reverse procedure to install the new latch. total time to do the job was less than half an hour. Machine works OK.

Unplugged and disconnected water lines. Removed three machine screws on the back edge of the washer top. Lifted the back and then pulled it to release it from the front. Removed 1 screw from the back next to the hot water connection. Slide the water valve assembly over to the left if you are standing in front of the washer and it pops out. Then slide the hose clamp for the small hose off and use flat head screw driver to pry hose loose. Then use flat head to gently work connectors off. Then reinstall everything in reverse order. Reconnect water lines turn on water and watch water leaks before cover is reinstalled.

Easy to install.
Baffles came with 3 screws and no directions.
The screws unnecessary and we easily figured out how to install.
Quick delivery, 1-2 days.

Repair was very simple. First watch the video that is available on this website. The installation went exactly like the video described. I pulled the washer away from the wall a few inches. Removed the three screws that hold the top on. Removed the top. Shut off the water and removed the water lines. Removed the single screw that holds the inlet valve in place (T20 torx).Removed the inlet valve, removed the hose from the valve. Reversed the operation to re-install. About a 20 minute job, tops. Tested the washer when finished and it worked great. It has been a couple of weeks now and no water has accumulated in the drum.

firts remover the three bolts that held the front panel on, and removed that. Then removed the screw that held the pump in place. then removed the hoses from the pump. After that put hoses on new pump and srewed back in place . the put front back on.

Removed the three screws in the back took off the top and swamped out the part. I recommend that the inlet valve is checked periodically by removing the hoses to see if there's any build up on the filter.

The baffles do push thru slots in the drum and by then pulling them towards you, it moves slightly locking them into place. There are screws supplied and they could be installed to aid in the baffles not coming off as ofter but this cannot by done by the average person for you would need special tools and allot of fixet smarts and patience. My washer can be set at a higher spinout speed and this does save on drying costs but the trade off is the baffles break off way too often. There are metal tabs in the drum that are raised up and snap behind tabs on the underside of the baffles as you slid them towards you install them. If you rebend these tabs up with a longnose pliers twice as high as they are, they will have more holding force, keeping the baffles from coming off as often. In my opinion, the baffles should have been designed to slide backwards to lock them in place, not foward. If you look at how they are shaped, they natually have pressure pushing them towards the back of the drum in the spin cycle which just contributes to the problem of them coming off in the first place.

We removed the front cover to the washer. Then we removed the drain pump piece that was broken. We put the new drain pump in and secured the screws. We also inspected all the hoses to make sure the hose clamps were intact. Then leaving the front cover off the machine to inspect for leaks we turned on the wash cycle. No more problems.

Followed internet instructions

Removed the 3 screws that hold the bottom front panel in place. Removed the 3 screws that hold the door latch in place and pulled out on the bottom of the door which wasn't very much and slid the door latch out to get to the wire connections. Connected the wires to the new latch and pulled out bottom again and put the latch back into place and put the 3 screws back in. Note: make sure you unplug the washer so you don't have a chance to get shocked. Level of difficulty was pretty easy.

Had the old pump out - 1 screw and two hose clamp to unhook and an electrical wire to pull out - couldnt been any easier - when new one came took 5 mins to install - did a load to make sure pump worked before put it all back together

1. Remove bottom panel (3 screws below). 2. Remove top panel (3 screws back). 3. Remove detergent dispenser (remove T screw in front.) 4. Carefully remove control panel is plastic so be careful not to break it. 5. Pull broken bellow from front and spring loaded clamp will come lose. 6. Push away bellow. 7. Remove cables from door lock. 8. Remove front panel screws (4 - 2 on top and 2 in bottom). 9. Unscrew bellow's clamp with flat screw driver or not driver. 10. Remove worn bellow. 11. Bellow has notch on top (Use as reference to replace. 11. Clean all surfaces. 12. Install new bellow to drum. 13. Screw clamp over of bellow not too tight. Don't want to break the seat. 14. Replace all in the reverse order and for the front of the bellow refer to my previous article (story) on front latch replacement.

Followed directions as shown in your repair video, having done this for the first time it took a bit longer than a repairman would have but was able to git-r-done. The most difficult part was fitting the adjustable wire back around the front of the washer, in the video it is made to look really easy however in real life it is a little more difficult and could not be attached so easily and took quite a bit of time to make sure it was attached correctly. thank you for your help.