1107204610 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Replaced hinge switch. Still no spin cycle. Noticed hinge bearing cracked & if hinge forced into switch, spin activated. Ordered new hinge bearings.Spin cycle still didn't engage. On further examination, observed that hinge was bent. Straightened hinge & worked like a charm. Didn't really need new switch or bearings. NOTE : Avoid having washer door bang shut.Took longer than expected, but each procedure was simple.

took part top of washer saw switch replaced it not to difficult it is always easier when you have new one to look at

>removed 2 screws connecting the vent filter to the top lid of the unit (just in front of removable filter).
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!

1)Shut off power supply to dryer. 2)Removed lint filter. 3)Removed two screws that secure filter duct to dryer top. 4)Lifted front of top to gain access to door switch. 5)Removed two switch mounting screws. 6)Removed the two power leads. 7)Reconnected power leads to new switch using "Normally Closed" terminal on switch. 8)Reversed the previous procedures to complete repair.

Had a lot of corrosion on the shaft area and had a hard time removing the inner tub but after some WD-40 and unprintable words and labor it popped off. Cleaned everything up, shaft, inner drum and outer drum. After that everything was a piece of cake. Thanks for the help!

I disconnected the drive belt from the motor and ran the motor to isolate it from the rest of the mechanisms. This was the noise. I disconnected the water lines and electrical cord,laid the machine front down. I disconnected the motor plug,removed the two bracket to body bolts and lifted the motor out to the bench. I then transferred the bracket to the new motor and reversed the procedure to install the motor. The most difficult part was raising the machine back up alone,I suggest a helper.

Removed the old one installed the new one

replace the water valve

1) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, the two screws retaining the hinge pin to the lid were removed. 2) Remove hinge pin and tilt lid slightly to gain access to bushing hole. 3)Install new bushing in hole. 4)Reposition lid. Insert hinge pin through lid and into bushing. 5)Reinstall hinge pin retaining screws and tighten.

After watching some on-line vids, I determined it was the center post, or tub, gasket at the bottom. A cheap part, and easy to snap-out the old and snap-in the new - But - I had to dissassemble the washer into individual washer component molecules. Luckily, I'd done this recently to replace the clutch drive, then the motor, then this. Not too bad, really. Washer body off (2 screws and two snap-links); agitator out (7/16" socket on extension); bang off tub nut (heavy hammer and punch); bang off drive block (hammer again); and pull tub up an out. Tub drain disconnected (pliers); pull off level sensing tube; three spring mounts (nutdriver); then just yank tub up. Poke out Centerpost gasket; snap in a new one; reassemble. Piece of cake.

Oredered late Friday afternoon. Got part Monday afternoon.thanks

My wife did the repair. Went on your website and watch the video on how to replace the switch and she was able to do it herself. I didn't mind at all. Saved $75.00 service charge.

I found on youtube that there are directions to repair. Dryer problems are usually one of three things, the door switch being one of them. i checked this last (should have been first). ordered the part( about 65% off sear's cost) and it came in one day! It went on really easy as long as you knew from repair video how to access inside. almost spent $400.00 on a new one.

I was impressed with the fast time the part was delivered. The price was good too. The installation video and instructions did not match my dryer but it was helpful to some extent. The video and instructions being different was not ya'll's fault because of the age of the dryer. It took me so long to change the switch was because of the location and design of the switch. I got it though.

This repair took me longer because I was just giving it a try - I have no experience, although I tend to be "handy." I'm sure anyone with experience would rate this as "easy" and have taken only a short time. I had to watch the video several times to understand what to do - and the comments were helpful too. My washer is an OLD maytag, so I removed the front of the dash and pulled it forward to access the electronics. My switch had only 2 prongs, so I hooked up to the "lid closed" option on the new switch. It works perfectly now. Very pleased I gave it a try.