1106115720 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

My wife did the repair. Went on your website and watch the video on how to replace the switch and she was able to do it herself. I didn't mind at all. Saved $75.00 service charge.

removed 4 screws. 2 in the back and 2 at the lint screen door. Remove top lid of dryer and looked down and there was the door switch with the broken actuator spring. A diagram of the dryer with part locations is very helpful. I checked the switch with volt meter to make sure it was ok. It was ok! Replace the actuator and put every thing back together and dryer works just fine. Thanks to PartSelect I was able to buy the actuator spring buy itself and not have to buy the switch also.

good just screwed in

Ordered lower dishrack PS2099930 (FSP 99002572). My old rack had permanent tines in 3 quadrants & foldaway tines in right rear. New rack (which came w/wheels) had permanent tines only in front 2 quadrants, plus 2 loose long tine rows (later ID'd as PS2099527, Front Fold-Away Tine, and PS2099528, Rear Fold-Away Tine). Ordered PS2097246 (Rear Rack Bowl Tine Row) to replace my existing rusty tines, but "on order" really meant "not available anywhere." Watched installation video for PS2099037 (Fold Away Tine Clip) which clearly matches the loose tine rows that came with rack, but was problematic since my center spindle is permanently mounted on floor of cabinet, not on the rack. Fold-Away Tines could be cut off, but they would start rusting immediately. Ordered 4 PS343939 (Tine Row for upper dishrack) and 4 PS2099037 (FSP 99001436 Fold Away Tine Clip), hoping that these tine rows would clear the spindle. They work ok, but do graze the spindle slightly. Undecided whether I will tolerate the consequent floppiness of the tines, or permanently lock into place using nylon cable ties. Actual installation easy, with no extra tools, once I acquired parts that fit.

I just remove two screws slip the old off and slip the new one on replace the two screws back put top of dry back in place replace two screws from dry lint trap

The only difficulty with installing the new lower dishrack was that the back tines came as 2 separate pieces with no instructions or clips. We ended up using white zip tipes to attach the pieces.

After watching some on-line vids, I determined it was the center post, or tub, gasket at the bottom. A cheap part, and easy to snap-out the old and snap-in the new - But - I had to dissassemble the washer into individual washer component molecules. Luckily, I'd done this recently to replace the clutch drive, then the motor, then this. Not too bad, really. Washer body off (2 screws and two snap-links); agitator out (7/16" socket on extension); bang off tub nut (heavy hammer and punch); bang off drive block (hammer again); and pull tub up an out. Tub drain disconnected (pliers); pull off level sensing tube; three spring mounts (nutdriver); then just yank tub up. Poke out Centerpost gasket; snap in a new one; reassemble. Piece of cake.

Replaced actuator switch lever. Exact replacement. Worked like a charm.

1) Using a Phillips head screwdriver, the two screws retaining the hinge pin to the lid were removed. 2) Remove hinge pin and tilt lid slightly to gain access to bushing hole. 3)Install new bushing in hole. 4)Reposition lid. Insert hinge pin through lid and into bushing. 5)Reinstall hinge pin retaining screws and tighten.

I found on youtube that there are directions to repair. Dryer problems are usually one of three things, the door switch being one of them. i checked this last (should have been first). ordered the part( about 65% off sear's cost) and it came in one day! It went on really easy as long as you knew from repair video how to access inside. almost spent $400.00 on a new one.

I disconnected the drive belt from the motor and ran the motor to isolate it from the rest of the mechanisms. This was the noise. I disconnected the water lines and electrical cord,laid the machine front down. I disconnected the motor plug,removed the two bracket to body bolts and lifted the motor out to the bench. I then transferred the bracket to the new motor and reversed the procedure to install the motor. The most difficult part was raising the machine back up alone,I suggest a helper.

I was impressed with the fast time the part was delivered. The price was good too. The installation video and instructions did not match my dryer but it was helpful to some extent. The video and instructions being different was not ya'll's fault because of the age of the dryer. It took me so long to change the switch was because of the location and design of the switch. I got it though.

Had a lot of corrosion on the shaft area and had a hard time removing the inner tub but after some WD-40 and unprintable words and labor it popped off. Cleaned everything up, shaft, inner drum and outer drum. After that everything was a piece of cake. Thanks for the help!

This repair took me longer because I was just giving it a try - I have no experience, although I tend to be "handy." I'm sure anyone with experience would rate this as "easy" and have taken only a short time. I had to watch the video several times to understand what to do - and the comments were helpful too. My washer is an OLD maytag, so I removed the front of the dash and pulled it forward to access the electronics. My switch had only 2 prongs, so I hooked up to the "lid closed" option on the new switch. It works perfectly now. Very pleased I gave it a try.