9703871220 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I used a shop vac to remove the excess water which would not drain from the drum - this is key to not flooding your laundry room. I removed the 2 machine screws at the bottom of the front panel. The panel removes easily which exposes the pump at the front lower right of the washer. I disconnected the electrical connection on the pump. Using the shop vac I slowly removed the hose connectionns at the suction and discharge sides of the pump. Following the disconnect of the hoses screws hold the pump to the base of the washer. Upon removal of the old pump you re-install the new in the reverse order. One item to note is that I purchased 2 hose clamps to replace the spring loaded OEM clamps for the hoses - this greatly aids in reinstallation. Re-install the front cover and you are ready. Total time to repaire 30 minutes - very easy!

I removed 2 screws from the the top back of top. Removed the cover. Removed the 2 screws holding the door lock assembly.Removed the door lock assembly, disconnected the 3 wiring harnesses. Connected the wiring harnesses to the new door lock switch assembly. Installed the new unit in the door lock, reinstalled the top.Done.

I started with a Phillips head Screw driver and removed the screws from the current Door strike and replaced with a new one. To replace the Door Lock and switch assembly I had to access the right portion of the door gasket which was a little tricky, as it has a wire ring around the gasket to keep it in position. It has never been removed so it was fairly stuck so I took some pliers to pull on the gasket and ring to loosen it up. Once I got it off I was able to remove the Gasket just enough to access the electrical components to the Switch assembly. I loosened the screws on the current switch assembly using a Phillips head screw driver and removed it through the access point then unplugged the current wiring harness from the switch assembly and plugged the new switch assembly in. Then I tightened up the screws on the new switch assembly. re attaching the gasket was possibly the most time consuming as there is a metal lip on the door itself that the gasket has to wrap around in order to re attach the metal ring and hold everything in place. I took a flat head screw driver and ran it along the edges of the metal lip while pulling the gasket to secure it around the lip then I wrapped the metal around the gasket to secure it to the metal lip in the door ( Note: the metal ring has a spring that should be positioned at the bottom of the door once it's installed correctly, you will notice the gasket is shaped at the bottom to allow for the spring) Once I completed that I made sure all screws where tightened and then checked the unit to be sure it worked properly. It is working perfectly and no more error message.

unscrew old knob off and screw on new

Unscrewed the old striker and screwed in the new one.

With the help of PartSelect's diagnosting tool it was easy to find the right part. The part arrived very fast and the installation was "child's play" by following PartSelect's video. I must have saved > $100. Thank You very much. -Anna-

I followed the instalation instructions provided with new parts. Getting the mounting pins out was relatively easy However, the shock on the right, behind the pump, was a bit more difficult to remove than the one on the left. I took the rubber drain off the pump in order to get at the pin behind the pump. The new replacement shocks came with the plastic bushings inserted in the shocks in alternate directions. The original pins were all inserted into the bracket / shocks from the rear so when I installed the new shocks I reinserted one bushing on each shock so they we both oriented in the same direction. The instruction says to be sure the mounting pin is pressed from the side with the busing collar. It seemed strange the shocks came that way, with no mention of switching them. The most difficult part on the installation was pushing the pins back through the bracket and shock since there was no easy way to push the pins in from the rear. I used a large channel locks on the left side, but the right side was more difficult with all of the obstructions. I finally was able to push in place with my bare hands but was very difficult. Sorry to say the new shocks did not cure the vibration at all. I was very careful to make sure the machine is level. I'm not sure if there is a cure other than replacing the machine.

Thank you for this web site! A friend suggested the problem being the drain pump, but I was not convinced as the washer would still drain on certain cycles. I took the chance and ordered the part after reading like stories on this website. For the repair: don't forget to lay towels down or have a shop vac ready to collect the water in the lines! The clamps were somewhat difficult to manage as the space is tight, but I did get them off with a medium size adjustable wrench. Getting them back on was a bit more difficult; I gave up on one and put a new o clamp on. It's metal, so I'm sure I would have been better off using the plastic-coated factory clamps.

no problemO top loader. open top, disco two electrical plugs and a small hose, then remove two screws that hold valve in place and remove. Re install in reverse order. Thanks for your support Eliot in Alaska!

There were only two screws that held the door strike/catch in place. I had to fish out the broken plastic piece with a pair of hemostats. The only difficult part about changing the new piece was that I had to find someone with the correct screwdriver to use since it was not a standara screwdriver. Luckily I live next door to a mechanic and borrowed his. The two screws came off easilty and I was able to replace it in 2 minutes. I was thrilled that the part that I ordered arrived the next day.

It was very easy. I simply unscrewed the 2 screws set the new latch into place and replaced the screws.

New part installed as per repair video - no problems.

Easy fix for a verry poor designed door catch. Almost purposeful on the manafactures behalf to make it out of cheap plastic Remove 2 screws replace install 2 screws

I started by removing the two screws at the back of the washer and taking the top off of the washing machine. Than I removed the two screws securing the door lok and switch assembly. I disconected the two or three electrical connections and install the new one in the reverse order.

The replacement of the Shock Absorber Kit was hampered on the right side by a metal box that was mounted just a little shorter than the bottom plastic pin. the deadblow hammer with the dowel worked with all the pins including the impeded pin and the top right pin which had to be removed at an angle. The replacement did not repair the washer - it is the tub bearing which went in a previous washer of a similar model about 4 years ago.