11081375140 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Tried to follow videos. Couldn't figure how to raise top. Laid machine on front used pliers to unclip bracket and clips holding hose. Took 10 minutes to work it this way.

Simple repair. Unplugged power cord, turned off water spigots. Removed the two screws under the control panel and rotated it up and back out of the way. Popped the two retaining clips (that's much easier now that I know to simply stick a large screwdriver straight down vertically into the front portion of the clip and lean the screwdriver back, rather than try to pry the clip out by levering under it against the washer top) holding the main body panel to the front of the washer and tilted it forward but not all the way off.

That allowed plenty of room to get at the back panel where the valve assembly is. There is some sort of plastic tray over the top of the valves that's kinda in the way so I popped it out by squeezing its plastic retaining barb with needle nose pliers and forcing it back thru the metal panel. Two screws hold the valve assembly on, and of course the water supply hoses are on one side and the fill hoses on the other. Removed and placed them on the new valve in order

The replacement part comes with a mounting plate and is not an exact duplicate. I screwed the assembly to the plate, but the holes in the plate don't line up perfectly enough to allow a second screw to be used. I could have drilled in a new one if I was willing to move the washer even farther out but a single screw holds it plenty well enough for me. Be sure to attach the correct electrical connectors and water lines to the new valves.

Reassemble in reverse order BUT TAKE CARE NOT TO PINCH THE CLEAR PLASTIC TUBE that runs from the water level switch down behind the control panel when you rotate the control panel back into position. I watched my washer fill almost to overflowing before realizing something was wrong. After 2-3 unsuccessful examinations I finally realized the tube was caught between two panels of metal and the controls were not recieving the "I'm full" signal from the wash tub. That would have been a mess if I hadn't watched a wash cycle to double-check my work.

My washer sounds brand new and fills faster. $30 shipped and an hour of work.

The replacement of the water inlet valve was not too difficult after reading the steps posted by others. The main step is to unscrew the top control panel first, remove the top 2 screws of the back panel, and you have easy access to the water inlet valve. No need to remove the entire back panel. Follow the instructions which accompany the replacement water inlet valve and you should have no problems. The washing machine now fills faster with the replaced water inlet valve. The replacement inlet valve arrived within 2 days of ordering! Thanks for the superfast shipment!

Initially, we thought the problem was in the water inlet valve and we changed it out. It went OK although the Kenmore almost fell apart after the removal of a few screws and the control unit.
Only thing was that it was unncessary. The real problem was not in the cold water turn on valve, but in the hose. The hose was special in that it was designed to shut off under emergency conditions. It appeared to be able to passs water when tested at my sink, but when connected to the washing machine and under presssure, it would not pass water. I had installed the part by this time so I left it there. I found the Kenmore washing machine rather flimsy in it's construction and tended to totally come apart once a few screws were removed.

1. Unplug washer, close hot and cold water supplies and remove water hoses from washer inlet valve.
2. Remove two screws at the bottom of the front of the control panel.
3 Remove two screws at the top of the back side of the control panel.
4. Remove control panel.
5. Remove two retainer clips that hold the back panel to the top of the cabinet by prying them out from the front with a large screwdriver. (Probably the most difficult part of the job.)
6. Use a socket or nut driver to remove the two screws that hold the valve to the back panel.
7. Lift the cabinet from the bottom rear and tilt the cabinet forward until you can access the valve.
8. Remove the wire harnesses from the hot and cold valves taking note of the wire orientation. (The red one will go back on the hot valve.)
9. Use pliers to open the hose retainer clip and slid the clip out of the way and remove the hose from the valve.
10. Reverse the process and you are done!

Removed two screws holding top control section on, and folded back the control panel. Removed two clips holding cabinet on, tipped cabinet toward me and off. Removed and replaced water valve, being careful to mark hot/cold hoses, and secure the internal hose to the valve with the spring clamp. Most difficult part was lining back up the cabinet when putting it back on the base, but a few minutes to line up tabs and get the front of the cabinet UNDER the front groove in the base got it secure. Works fine now.

My dryer is 35 years old and thought this was it, but I googled the question and found out it was the door switch. Orderd the part and received it very fast and didn't want to wait for my husband to come home so I went on you tube and found a video how to open dryer and change switch. I did it in about 30 min. and yes it is now perfect again. No problems. I just unscrewed the old switch and put the new one in. Maybe I'll get another 35 years out of this machine. :o) Thanks for making it so easy.

replaced missing screw and pad and now machine works perfectly

Two screws holding top, unhook wire conector. remove cabinet,replace switch. Reassemble.

Order the part and put the new part on and put the washing machine cabinet back on and check the washer for the water filled up and then it's starting to go on the spin cycles.

laid washer on it's side and changed hose

1- Remove power connection, remove water connections. 2- Remove the top controller box and free it from its hinges. 3- Loosen the back cover to get access to water valve assembly. 4- Remove hose clamp connected to inlet water valve. 5- Remove the old water valve which is secured with 1/4" screw. 5- For installation perform step 5 to 1 and then test your Installation.

Replaced lid switch, but problem still continued.

Unplugged the power while the washer was running, and the water kept on running. The water inlet valve was stuck open. I removed the inlet valve and you cold blow air thru it, it should be closed with no power applied.Ordered replacement from this site it was a perfect fit. As far as the removal and installation procedure, just follow the video as presented on this site. Good Look.

Turn off water, unplug machine
Disconnect water lines to the valve
Unscrewed the clear plastic tabs on the top of the machine, then pryed the back away from the top white part.
Two gold clips can be popped out with a long flat head screw driver.
Pulled the back away from the machine enough to disconnect the wires from the valve. Unscrew the screw(s) from the valves.
Old valves out, new valves in. Plug in the wires, screw in the screws.
Then, to get the gold tabs back in place.....i called NASA.
just kidding. They're tough!
I slipped one into the back and held it in place with my thumb. Then I lined the piece up with the slot inside the machine. Then, i pryed the top white part away as I pushed them together. Stuck a long handle screwdriver down in and pushed REALLY hard on the gold tab to get it to snap into place. Everything is really tight, so you might have to try it a few times.....i left some blood behind.
repeat for the other side, snap in the clear tabs, hook up the water lines, plugged it in......
Then I sat back and listened to my wife praise me for fixing her machine!