11084090430 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Move dryer away from wall. Unplug the dryer. Open the hinge top from the front edges of dryer. Remove the two screws holding the filter channel onto the top of dryer. Lean the top of dryer back away from the front . Open the dryer door, Locate switch from the top looking into the dryer top opening where you have just leaning the top back out of your way. Unplug the wire from the old switch. remove the old switch and bracket using the flat blade screwdriver for screw removal.
Place the wire on the new switch using the normally open contacts. place switch on bracket and gently position the bracket and switch over the holes designed for the switch and tighten screws using the new Phillips head screws sent with the new switch. place the top back into place and replace the filter channel screws plug in the dryer and job finished. easy as 1-2-3

First I unscrewed two screws holding the back panel. Unscrewed the screws holding the water valve onto the back panel. With a screwdriver, pried the panel out far enough to pull the old water inlet valve out. Remove the connections on the old valve and replace with the new one. Screw everything back together. Fairly easy repair. Cold water flows like new and the noise is gone. Hope to get another few years out of the washer for this $25 fix.

Followed the instructions. Removed two screws on front panel, flipped it up and popped up the retainer clips. Tipped the washer body forward. Unscrewed the old valve and replaced with the new. Reversed the previous procedures and put the whole thing back together. I had put up with this low flowing water for a couple years. Now it fills like new!

Simple repair. Unplugged power cord, turned off water spigots. Removed the two screws under the control panel and rotated it up and back out of the way. Popped the two retaining clips (that's much easier now that I know to simply stick a large screwdriver straight down vertically into the front portion of the clip and lean the screwdriver back, rather than try to pry the clip out by levering under it against the washer top) holding the main body panel to the front of the washer and tilted it forward but not all the way off.

That allowed plenty of room to get at the back panel where the valve assembly is. There is some sort of plastic tray over the top of the valves that's kinda in the way so I popped it out by squeezing its plastic retaining barb with needle nose pliers and forcing it back thru the metal panel. Two screws hold the valve assembly on, and of course the water supply hoses are on one side and the fill hoses on the other. Removed and placed them on the new valve in order

The replacement part comes with a mounting plate and is not an exact duplicate. I screwed the assembly to the plate, but the holes in the plate don't line up perfectly enough to allow a second screw to be used. I could have drilled in a new one if I was willing to move the washer even farther out but a single screw holds it plenty well enough for me. Be sure to attach the correct electrical connectors and water lines to the new valves.

Reassemble in reverse order BUT TAKE CARE NOT TO PINCH THE CLEAR PLASTIC TUBE that runs from the water level switch down behind the control panel when you rotate the control panel back into position. I watched my washer fill almost to overflowing before realizing something was wrong. After 2-3 unsuccessful examinations I finally realized the tube was caught between two panels of metal and the controls were not recieving the "I'm full" signal from the wash tub. That would have been a mess if I hadn't watched a wash cycle to double-check my work.

My washer sounds brand new and fills faster. $30 shipped and an hour of work.

Shut off both water valves and used a cup to catch water from hoses. Removed top control panel that's held on with 2 phillips screws. Remove top screws on the back to gain access. Was able to access the valve by pulling slightly out on the top corner.

Stopped by a friend who is an appliance repair person. He walked me through the Roper repair.
Removed the two screws, pulled the control panel up and back, disconnected the two wires. Sprung the two clips with a large screwdriver. That gave me the room I needed to do the repair. The hardest part was lining up the cover to go back on level. Part worked perfect, everyone was happy.

The replacement of the water inlet valve was not too difficult after reading the steps posted by others. The main step is to unscrew the top control panel first, remove the top 2 screws of the back panel, and you have easy access to the water inlet valve. No need to remove the entire back panel. Follow the instructions which accompany the replacement water inlet valve and you should have no problems. The washing machine now fills faster with the replaced water inlet valve. The replacement inlet valve arrived within 2 days of ordering! Thanks for the superfast shipment!

Initially, we thought the problem was in the water inlet valve and we changed it out. It went OK although the Kenmore almost fell apart after the removal of a few screws and the control unit.
Only thing was that it was unncessary. The real problem was not in the cold water turn on valve, but in the hose. The hose was special in that it was designed to shut off under emergency conditions. It appeared to be able to passs water when tested at my sink, but when connected to the washing machine and under presssure, it would not pass water. I had installed the part by this time so I left it there. I found the Kenmore washing machine rather flimsy in it's construction and tended to totally come apart once a few screws were removed.

1. Unplug washer, close hot and cold water supplies and remove water hoses from washer inlet valve.
2. Remove two screws at the bottom of the front of the control panel.
3 Remove two screws at the top of the back side of the control panel.
4. Remove control panel.
5. Remove two retainer clips that hold the back panel to the top of the cabinet by prying them out from the front with a large screwdriver. (Probably the most difficult part of the job.)
6. Use a socket or nut driver to remove the two screws that hold the valve to the back panel.
7. Lift the cabinet from the bottom rear and tilt the cabinet forward until you can access the valve.
8. Remove the wire harnesses from the hot and cold valves taking note of the wire orientation. (The red one will go back on the hot valve.)
9. Use pliers to open the hose retainer clip and slid the clip out of the way and remove the hose from the valve.
10. Reverse the process and you are done!

My dryer is 35 years old and thought this was it, but I googled the question and found out it was the door switch. Orderd the part and received it very fast and didn't want to wait for my husband to come home so I went on you tube and found a video how to open dryer and change switch. I did it in about 30 min. and yes it is now perfect again. No problems. I just unscrewed the old switch and put the new one in. Maybe I'll get another 35 years out of this machine. :o) Thanks for making it so easy.

Two screws holding top, unhook wire conector. remove cabinet,replace switch. Reassemble.

Very easy,take off the old faucet screen and screw on the adapter. What I really liked was the ease of ordering the part. In less than 5 minutes I had located the part and ordered it. Less than 3 days later, I had the part. Way to go PartSelect.

replaced missing screw and pad and now machine works perfectly

It was fairly easy a few tight spaces to reach in but all in all it was pretty straight forward

Removed two screws holding top control section on, and folded back the control panel. Removed two clips holding cabinet on, tipped cabinet toward me and off. Removed and replaced water valve, being careful to mark hot/cold hoses, and secure the internal hose to the valve with the spring clamp. Most difficult part was lining back up the cabinet when putting it back on the base, but a few minutes to line up tabs and get the front of the cabinet UNDER the front groove in the base got it secure. Works fine now.