11020622991 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

The biggest problem for me was finding the screws to remove the control panel. First there are two screws on the top back side of the control panel, then there are plastic covers that have to be removed from both sides of control panel, then you can remove the screws at the base of the control panel. Set the control panel back, then remove the golden brackets that hold the cabinet to back of the washer. The whole cabinet will come forward with a little coaxing. (Remember to put the screws with the part you have removed to make sure you put them back in the same place.) Next remove screws that hold on the lid switch, remove wiring from clips, then replace with new switch, situate wiring in clips, position switch into place, screw into place. The cabinet is really hard to get back into place, be patient it may take a few tries. Once you get the cabinet in place, replace the golden brackets, then place the control panel where the screw holes line up and screw down, replace plastic sides, then replace the screws in the back side and your done.

First, I'm glad I found PartSelect. The previous posts for this repair told me exactly how to replace the pump: I unplugged the washer and moved it out away from the wall (did not need to disconnect water hoses). Then I tilted the washer back and propped it up so I could get underneath. Using pliers, slid hose clamps back and disconnected hoses from pump. Using a screwdriver, popped off two clips, top and bottom, that hold the pump in place. Pump then slides right off the shaft. Installation is the reverse. Make sure you align the shaft with the pump. Delivery of my part was FAST - ordered it and got it the next day!

Repair was easy enough by just unlocking the tab and twisting the switch out from under the control panel. For me though, this did not fix my overflowing issue. After more research I found the inlet valve needed to be cleaned out.
I respect that electrical parts are non-returnable as I am in the auto parts business.

Unscrewed the two screws that hold the water lines to the valve. Unscrewed and lifted the control panel, popped the two spring clips that hold the back panel against the housing. Pulled the valve just outside the back panel. Took off the internal water line and moved it over to the new valve. Took off both hot and bold electric plugs and moved them to the new valve. With the old valve off, I sled the new valve into place and screwed it to the back panel. Put the spring tabs back on the back panel and screwed the back panel back together. Plugged it in, attached the water supply lines and tested it. Worked fine.

we looked at the video first then my husband fit the proble boy! was i excited! all the stores tried to get me to buy a new one. thanks partselets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Removed the clips. Pulled out the old pump. After trying to get the new pump on the shaft of the motor, I realized that some corrosion had built up on the motor shaft. I got a small tack hammer and very lightly tapped the shaft to remove the corrosion. The pump then slid on the shaft with no problem. Replaced clips. Job complete.
The corrosion on the shaft cracked the plastic piece where the shaft connects and this is what caused the problem in the first place.

I removed three bolts from the transmission and two clips that hold the motor to the drive gear. I replaced the brake cam that had cracked and the lining. Now it works great ! Ordered part on Friday before two and it came Saturday at four.

The reason it took as long as it did was because the job is not in line as the work I normally do.
It would be a fairly easy job for an experienced repairman. (Taking the back off the washer was time consuming for me) The rest of the job was easy as the part was a perfect fit.
I remember having a problem blending hot/cold water for some time. Most recently, while washing a load the water did not want to shut off. I can't remember how I diagnosed the water not shuting off as a problem along with the water temp control, but it is now repaired.
With the new valve installed, water temp select is now OK and the water now shuts off as normal.

After taking the entire washer apart one time, we learned that we could take the top and front of the machine off only to repair it. I found Part-select online and with the model number locating the part was easy. It arrived within 3 days and with instructions I could easily replace the old part with a few tools. I spent dollars instead of hundreds for a new machine.

Replaceing the actual switch was easy as unscrewing two screws with the lid up. The wiring was a different story. I guess you can cut and spice and be done with it but to get to the real connection, a lot has to come apart or have very long arms to reach from the bottom. I first removed the cover to the dials by removing the side trim and a screw at each end near the base. That exposed the wire connection. The wire actually runs under the top therefore I had to remove the back panel partially to gain access to the wiring and holders for the wire. Just by remembering the steps while backing out, everything worked out.

First I removed the softener bin by pulling it up and off, then I removed the plastic seal by pulling it up and out, then I removed the 1/2 inch bolt with a ratchet and extension, then I removed the upper and lower agitator assembly from the machine and seperated the two by putting my feet on the lower agitator to hold it to the floor and pulling the upper agitator fast and firmly.
Sitting on top of the lower agitator I found the dog ear assembly. I pulled the dog ear assembly off and removed the yellow cap and existing dog ears.
Assembly was reverse.

flip machine back remove two spring clamps and hoses remove two spring clamps and water pump save $500.+on a new washer

Removed capscrew in end of agitator shaft took cover off machine-[ unscrewed two screws holding down control panel, hinged back, pryed retaining clips out, rocked back machine cover.]
Removed motor mounting clips and pump hoses, swinging motor and pump out of the way. Removed 3 capscrews holding transmission, pulled transmission towards me removing agitator shaft, disassembled clutch assembly - removing one cirlip then another, installed new clucth parts in same order

Unplug power from wall.
Disconnected water lines
Tip Unit on it's side. (Recommend turning so motor is to the top side)
Disconnect Electrical connector and Hoses from the pump and motor.
Disconnect metal straps used to retain the motor to the transmission. (screwdriver to pry)
Remove old coupling pieces from transmission/motor(used a long screw driver, rock back and forth)
used air compressor to clean up electric motor
replace new coupling on motor and transmisison (may need hammer to tap into place)
set rubber bushing on transmission side (transmission shaft should be facing up at this point)
replace electric motor into place, making sure to line up bushing and motor mounts.
replace metal strap connectors between transmission / motor (this can be tricky, as the one in the back is hard to get at.)
replace electrical connectors and hoses
connect washing machine power and water and test

removed top controls panel (not obvious),then released old switch by rotating 90 degrees (after disconnecting wires and pressure sensor tubing), then reinstalled new switch (new switch has only 3 positions, not 5 as old switch had) and reinstalled everything else.

A 'gotcha' is the plastic 'strap' on the back that anchors switch compartment to the back steel sheet. It is EASY to dislodge that plastic strap from the bakc panel and it drops down inside the panel--maybe to the floor, maybe not--requiring difficult retrieval. Suggest TAPING the plastic strap in place on the back steel sheet so it will not fall out.