1106114800 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Two screws holding top, unhook wire conector. remove cabinet,replace switch. Reassemble.

replaced missing screw and pad and now machine works perfectly

Unfortunately after i replaced the new switch the drier worked well. After it stopped for the 2nd time we wanted to put a load and start the swit lost contact. It was not working.It lost the contact with the circuit. No clicking sound the drier not functional. I guess need a new switch?

I took out the 2 screws that are located on the top of dryer under the lint filter door. Popped up the whole top of dryer. Opened the dryer door to unscrew the 2 door switch screws. Took off the old broken door switch through the open dryer top and before replacing the new door switch completely I tested it by turning the dryer on and pressing the new switch against the button activator 2 find out if it works. When it did, I carefully put the door switch back so the dryer door can activate it properly and screwed in the 2 screws. Finally, I put the dryer top back down & fastened the last 2 screws under the lint filter door.

Replaced hinge switch. Still no spin cycle. Noticed hinge bearing cracked & if hinge forced into switch, spin activated. Ordered new hinge bearings.Spin cycle still didn't engage. On further examination, observed that hinge was bent. Straightened hinge & worked like a charm. Didn't really need new switch or bearings. NOTE : Avoid having washer door bang shut.Took longer than expected, but each procedure was simple.

Turned off circuit breaker to machine. Removed lint trap to allow removal of two Philips screws from vent passage that hold lid on. Opened door and removed two Philips screws that hold switch to front of machine. Using flat blade #2 screw driver pushed on plastic locking tabs under front of machine top about 2" in from either side to allow top to be lifted up from machine. While holding up at 45 degree angle reached in and grabbed switch to pull it out for easy access. Set top down gently once switch was out. While holding switch removed broken switch actuator and installed new actuator on to switch. Lifted top back to 45 degree angle and with left hand held switch assembly in place and started two screws previously removed back into actuator holes. Tightened screws snugly. Lowered top back into plastic locking tabs and gently pushed down to secure top. Installed two screws back to air passage tube for lint trap through two holes in top that were removed at beginning of repair. Install lint trap, turn on circuit breaker and verified operation. Put wet clothes in tub, turned machine on, put away two screw drivers and kissed wife apologizing for taking so long to getting around to repairing machine.

I diagnosed the problem, as a broken arm on the actuator for the door shut switch. I jumped the switch, and dryer worked. I went to this site, found the part I needed, ordered it/received it quickly, and proceeded to do the repair. The video that THIS particular part goes for, isn't' like MY dryer. My dryer hinges in the rear. You just remove the 2 screws on either side of the control panel, (right and left), pull forward on the panel, to ease its attachment, let it lie. Then with a small plastic pry tool, pop the 2 attaching points in the front of the dryer. Front end lifts up, like a hood on a car. My roommate held hood up, while I R&R'd the switch actuator. Went back together, in reverse of my taking apart. Worked great. Thanks a bunch.

Raise the top off of the dryer with a flat blade screwdriver in each front corner of the dryer. Disconnect power to the dryer. Remove old switch and install new switch. Test door and proper operation of dryer.

I removed the two screws on the top by the lint catcher. Then, per information from this website, I pried up the top. I reached down into the dryer and removed the two screws on the broken door switch and replaced it with the new part. I am a recently widowed, 55 year old and was thrilled to find good advice, information and instructions on your website!! Simple as could be!

Order the part and put the new part on and put the washing machine cabinet back on and check the washer for the water filled up and then it's starting to go on the spin cycles.

Replaced lid switch, but problem still continued.

We actually had to get the repairman back that had repaired our microwave. Our range has the attached microwave above the range. My stovetop light worked prior to the visit. When he left, I prepared supper without the light, which did not go on. Ultimately, we had to replace the fluorscent tube, which thankfully, you had. No appliance store in a 35 mile radius did. We finally got the glass protector off, and the new tube did not go on. Back to the repairman, to tell him the new bulb did not work and that probably something happened when he visited before. He came back, found that indeed a wire had been broken when he was working on the microwave. I had indicated to him I did not expect to pay another repair bill after I had alrealy spent 117. before plus the cost of the new bulb, 22. something including shipping. He obliged and id not charge me anythink to repair the broken wire.
Now I have the old bulb for back up!!!
Thank you for having my replacement tube!!

removed the shield and removed the old tube. Replaced with the new tube and replaced the shield. The only place I could locate this tube was through the internet. This Co. had as good a price including shipping that I found.

We got the part so fast we were both surprised. My husband installed the part by just seeing how the old one came off. It was simple and fairly quick. Except that his hands are so big they had a hard time fitting in to where the part needed to go. Just opened the top of the dryer, took the old part out and put the new one in.

Followed previous comments and took 5 minutes to replace. Be careful to hold spring and switch together because easy to separate and drop. Two screws to remove for switch, two to remove for lint trap, pop the lid up and switch / spring is easy to access.