11084090110 Kenmore Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Karen from Austin, TX
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
There was very little cold water coming through.
I'm a 61 year old single woman, rather handy around the house. I followed the video which was very helpful and everything went together fine until it came to putting the body of the machine back on. I did the repairs all myself which took about an hour but when it came to the machine body I couldn't get it back on there after numerous tries. I had to call my brother and it took him just one try but then he is 6'2" and could look down the little hole to see where the tab was to put it on and hold the body at the same time. BTW - he did inspect my work before finishing the job and said I "did good!" Thanks for the video but could have used some hints as to how to put the body on with some close ups as to what he was doing with his hands when he did it.
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- Customer:
- Armando` from San Antonio, TX
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Washer not filling with hot or cold water
I followed the instructional video that referenced the water inlet valve. The steps I followed were identical to the video I watched. That was extremely helpful. The hardest part was removing the terminal wires that connected to the inlet valve, the rest was very easy. With the new valve installed the washer works exactly as it did before. This site is very helpful, thank you!
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- Customer:
- Christopher from Bowie, MD
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Leak at hot-water inlet
First - I saw the picture of the part on your site. It made all the difference.
Then, I turned off the water supply, unplugged the washer, removed the screws holding the backing plate on the washing machine to expose the valve.
After that, it was as easy as removing two mounting screws, disconnecting the solenoids (just two connections), pulling out the old valve and replacing it with the new.
Pretty simple and a lot less pricey when you can wait a few days for a part to come in the mail.
Then, I turned off the water supply, unplugged the washer, removed the screws holding the backing plate on the washing machine to expose the valve.
After that, it was as easy as removing two mounting screws, disconnecting the solenoids (just two connections), pulling out the old valve and replacing it with the new.
Pretty simple and a lot less pricey when you can wait a few days for a part to come in the mail.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Palm City, FL
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Water leakig into the tub after the cycle finished
First I unplugged the washing machine and turned off the inlet water faucets. I prepared my tools, spead a drop cloth, and had ready a towel and small bucket to catch water from the hoses.
I pulled the washer away from the wall and removed the screw holding the ground wire. I disconnected the inlet hoses and the drain hose from the wall and put the loose ends in the washer tub. Then I completly turned the washer around for easy access. I removed the inlet hoses and the drain hose using the bucket to catch the little water that was still in the hoses. I removed 2 screws holding the top control panel to the back place and removed the 3 screws at the bottom of the back plate. I also removed the two screws holding the control panel to the top of the washer. The water inlet valve is located on the left side looking at the rear about half way up. I was able to move the left panel of the washer out of the way an inch or so, and pull the left side of the rear panel away a few inches so I could stick my hand in and unhook the cold and hot wire cables. I memorized which went into which slot. Then I unscrewed the water inlet valve and pulled it out the opening to the back and using a pair of pliers I loosed the water clamp and removed the rubber inlet hose. A small amount of water came out which I was able to catch in my small pail.
The water inlet valve comes with a separate mounting plate. I attached the mounting plate with one of the screws provided. The screws are identical except one has a flat slot and the other has a special star slot.
I reattached the rubber inlet hose using the pliers to hold the clamp then positioned the water inlet valve back in place on the back panel. I put a screw in to hold it and reattached the wires for the hot and cold control. Then I tightened the screws.
I repositioned the panels and put the lower screws holding the back panel to the washer back in loosely. I positioned the control panel back on the top of the washer and reattached the two screws on the back and then the two screws holding the front of the control panel to the top of the washer. Then I reattached the inlet hoses and draine hose.
I used this opportunity with the washer away from the wall to clean the floor and wall behind it. After cleaning under the washer, I moved the dryer over and cleaned under the dryer and made sure the dryer hose was still connected.
I put the dryer back, and repositioined the washer half way back into the opening. The I reattached the ground wire to the back of the dryer and attached the hoses to the wall. Then I pushed the washer back into place. Using a level I rechecked the level of the washer. I turned the water back on and ran a small load of wash to test. It worked fine.
I pulled the washer away from the wall and removed the screw holding the ground wire. I disconnected the inlet hoses and the drain hose from the wall and put the loose ends in the washer tub. Then I completly turned the washer around for easy access. I removed the inlet hoses and the drain hose using the bucket to catch the little water that was still in the hoses. I removed 2 screws holding the top control panel to the back place and removed the 3 screws at the bottom of the back plate. I also removed the two screws holding the control panel to the top of the washer. The water inlet valve is located on the left side looking at the rear about half way up. I was able to move the left panel of the washer out of the way an inch or so, and pull the left side of the rear panel away a few inches so I could stick my hand in and unhook the cold and hot wire cables. I memorized which went into which slot. Then I unscrewed the water inlet valve and pulled it out the opening to the back and using a pair of pliers I loosed the water clamp and removed the rubber inlet hose. A small amount of water came out which I was able to catch in my small pail.
The water inlet valve comes with a separate mounting plate. I attached the mounting plate with one of the screws provided. The screws are identical except one has a flat slot and the other has a special star slot.
I reattached the rubber inlet hose using the pliers to hold the clamp then positioned the water inlet valve back in place on the back panel. I put a screw in to hold it and reattached the wires for the hot and cold control. Then I tightened the screws.
I repositioned the panels and put the lower screws holding the back panel to the washer back in loosely. I positioned the control panel back on the top of the washer and reattached the two screws on the back and then the two screws holding the front of the control panel to the top of the washer. Then I reattached the inlet hoses and draine hose.
I used this opportunity with the washer away from the wall to clean the floor and wall behind it. After cleaning under the washer, I moved the dryer over and cleaned under the dryer and made sure the dryer hose was still connected.
I put the dryer back, and repositioined the washer half way back into the opening. The I reattached the ground wire to the back of the dryer and attached the hoses to the wall. Then I pushed the washer back into place. Using a level I rechecked the level of the washer. I turned the water back on and ran a small load of wash to test. It worked fine.
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- Customer:
- Steve from Manhattan, KS
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Getting only a trickle of hot water and a drip from the cold after cycle is done
I watched the video provided and followed the same steps in taking the washer cabinet off. The valve was very easy to replace and I took the opportunity to really clean and inspect everything. A little tricky to get back together but not bad. My 25 year old kenmore is working like a charm.
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- Customer:
- Thelma from Wexford, PA
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Low flow of cold water
Had no problem in disassembling the unit to get to the water inlet valve area. Very little problem installling the inlet valve but had somewhat of a difficult time getting the housing reassembled. There is a good flow of both hot and cold water which has cut down on the fill up time and washing time. Glad it is still working after 15 years. Instructions on the internet were extremely helpful. The delivery time of part was amazingly fast.
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- Customer:
- katherine from baton rogue, LA
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
cold water only dribbled into tub
followed the video i found on Parts Select. Most difficult part was getting the frame back on correctly. Everything else was a breeze. Works great now.
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- Customer:
- Marco from Somerville, MA
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
water inlet valve was cracked on back of washing machine
i removed all screws for back of washer and removed top washer controls. then removed the valves and replaced with new one. reinstalled back in reverse order.really easy job. you just have to pay attention how you took it apart and study how it works , thanks!
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- Customer:
- Alan from Brooklyn, NY
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
No hot water
I followed the great step by step video instructions that you provided. The only difficulty was getting the plugs off the Water Inlet Valve. I had to use pliers (gently) to pull the two plugs off. I would highly recommend PartSelect to my friends.
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- Customer:
- BRIAN from NEW ORLEANS, LA
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
machine stopped running hot water
replaced valve. Everything now working. Ordering the part was simple and I found a how to video on line that was great The whole replacement of the defective part was easy and the machine was back on line in 30 minutes.
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- Customer:
- walter from palmetto, FL
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
water inlet valve would not shut off because of warn out part
Take top of washing machine off. Turn spikets off and remove hot and cold inlet hoses. Remove one screw holding part in place. Reach from front and take valve out. Unplug wiring harnesses. Reinstall the same way I took it off.
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- Customer:
- John from Royse City, TX
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
No hot water & very little cold water
As I tore my ACL, my wife actually did the actual repair while I talked her through it. The video on your website was such a great help. Our repair went exactly as depicted.
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- Customer:
- George from Edgerton, WI
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Water inlet valve would not shut off on cold side.
I removed the faulty valve after unplugging the AC cord. Two screws, the two water hoses were removed, and the electrical connections were unplugged. The old valve could then be rotated so that the clamp on the fill tube could be loosened and the tube pulled off the valve.
The new valve body seemed to be an exact replacement, but the mounting bracked was slightly different and required drilling two new screw-mounting holes; an easy job.
Before securing the mounting plate to the machine, the fill tube and clamp were reattached, and the electrical connectors plugged in. After connecting the supply hoses and plugging in the AC cord, the machine filled with water properly and everything seemed to be back to normal.
I might have been able to use the original mounting plate, but it had been taken to a different location which was too far away to easily retrieve.
The new valve body seemed to be an exact replacement, but the mounting bracked was slightly different and required drilling two new screw-mounting holes; an easy job.
Before securing the mounting plate to the machine, the fill tube and clamp were reattached, and the electrical connectors plugged in. After connecting the supply hoses and plugging in the AC cord, the machine filled with water properly and everything seemed to be back to normal.
I might have been able to use the original mounting plate, but it had been taken to a different location which was too far away to easily retrieve.
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- Customer:
- Valan from Arlington, TX
- Parts Used:
- 285805
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Had no hot water flowing into the washer.
I just followed the instructions from a previous customer. Worked perfectly.
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- Customer:
- Andris from Sands Point, NY
- Parts Used:
- W10820036
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Dryer would not activate
>removed 2 screws connecting the vent filter to the top lid of the unit (just in front of removable filter).
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!
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