11022974102 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Started taking machine apart, would of been easier if I had looked at the online diagrams first, but dismantled enough to find a few broken parts, I could not tell the coupling was broke till I actually removed the water pump and motor. Total cost for 3 plastic parts was less than $25 including shipping. Received parts in 3 days on standard lowest cost shipping. Put machine back together, with just a few extra screws and wire clips, but machine works like new now. Much better than the cost of new or used washer.

Yes, I agree that the actual replacement of the pump was an easy task on this whirlpool washing machine, however, unlike other posters, I had no access through the bottom of the machine. My machine has a solid pan on the bottom. It has a large hole in the center - I think to access the transmission, but no access where the pump is.
So, I had to dismantle the entire enclosure, first the back (about 6 screws, a couple of electrical connections, etc.), then remove the rest of the enclosure to reveal the guts of the machine. I also had to disconnect a small vacuum tube attached to the tub, and remove the control console on top along with the back. It was pretty straight forward, took about two hours to dismantle. Then, the actual removal of the pump was as easy as others have described here - two spring clips and a hose clamp and I had it in my hand. I ordered the new part, which came very quickly - 2 days I think. Then I took another two hours to re-assemble the machine. It works - yeah!
Symptoms - water leak on the floor, it was actually intermittent for a time, so I procrastinated. Then when I actually did the work, I could see the rust trail and follow it to the leaky pump. The pump was actually leaking through the center, where the drive shaft from the motor goes. There is probably a seal between the impeller and the central drive slot that gives out after a while.
New pump in - machine back together - no leaks.

slid the old seal off the lid and the new one popped on so easily
I do so many self- repairs at home now this was not even an issue.

I ordered the new cogs but didn't want to wait the few days for them to arrive. So I decided to try and temporarily repair the old ones. After looking at the picture of the new ones on this site I realized that the teeth were just worn down. I took all four of them out and used a grinding disc to carve the teeth down deeper. They were not perfect. (I would recommend holding the teeth with a vise.) However, after reinstalling the cogs the machine worked perfect and that was two weeks ago. I'm not going to install the new ones until I have to.

Looked at the repair instructions on your web site and it made the repairs simple and easy.

Being female & never working on appliances, it was a challenge for me. I took the spinning unit apart: 1) Outer cap 2) Inner cap 3) Screw, nut & bolt popped out. Rusty & wouldn't lock into place anymore. Ordered nut & washer at about $10 + shipping. Total $17 from MayTag Rec'd right at 7 days via USPS. Used nutdriver/wrench to screw in new bolt w/washer. Wah la! That did it! Washer working great now! Now that I'm a "diy" handy person, I'm ready for my next challenge. Hopefully, none!

Watch the video

leaned washer back on wall at or more than 45degree undid two screws off of motor. pulled old part off put new on reinstalled motor Done

Tipped the washer onto it's side, used pliers to loosen clamps on old hose. Removed outer drain hose from white plastic hose adapter on back of washer. Removed white hose adapter (snaps out of place) and old hose. Fed new hose through opening for white adapter, then snapped new adapter into place on back of machine. Put the new hose in place and replaced clamps. Sat washer back upright. No more leaking! It was easy and didn't take more than 15-20 minutes.

We unscrewed the two screws at the back of the control panel. Holding the control panel on both ends
we pulled it toward the front of the machine, slightly and gently lifting it at the same time, removing it from the metal surround. Holding the control panel up off of the surround we rocked the surround forward and lifted it off the washing machine frame.
We could see where the leak was coming from. We took the hose clamps from the two ports, then
using a pair of pliers pulled the two clips that are holding the pump onto the shaft protruding from the
electric motor. We matched up the part on the web sight. Ordered the part then when it came in we just reversed the order putting the machine back together. The hardest and most time consuming
thing about this repair was the clean up of the washing machine. (Dirt and soap residue does
build up on the inside of the wash tubs.)

First. I unplugged the washing machine from the electrical source. Then, I unscrewed the two screws in the front and the two screws on the back holding the control panel onto the washer. I lifted the control panel off and let it hang in the back of the washing machine. I unplugged the white plug connecting the control panel from the machine. I used a screw driver to pry the two giant spring like clamps and the cabinet released from the actual washing machine. At the bottom, I found the pump, unclamped the small clamps holding the pump on, pulled it off, installed the new one ( I used pliers to get the hose clamps where they needed to be) and then reversed by steps. Easy as pie and saved me a bunch of money

I followed the instructions in the video on the part page (part #PS11741239), which was also conveniently linked in the item shipped email. The replacement of the part was very easy ... the hard part was balancing the washer again (kitchen floor seems to have sunk in the middle). Back to normal function without having to suffer a flood first. Thanks.

I actually didn't remove any of the panels. I tipped the washer at a 45 degree angle to the back and side to release the motor clamps, unhooked the power to the motor and removed the two drain pipes from the motor.

Once I had all of that removed, I was able to pull the motor away from the transmission and put the new coupling pieces on. The hardest part was holding the motor up (it is fairly heavy and cumbersome to hold while the machine is tipped like that). The pieces didn't go on too easily either. It would have been ideal to have at least the front panel off to use a hammer more easily. I did manage to get it on using a socket and a hammer. With some light taps it went on.

Next I put the hoses back on, the power, the bottom motor clamp, and then wrestled for another 30 minutes getting the top motor clamp on.

The clamps are the metal like springs that hook into the transmission and then spring tighten the motor to the transmission. Then there is a little screw that holds it in place... Not easy to see from any angle, and that is where having the front panel off would be ideal.

I've NEVER worked on a washer before and I accomplished this by myself in about 2 hours. I think if you are sure this is the problem, fix it yourself. Best 20 bucks and 2 hours I spent this month by saving a couple hundred on a new washer or repair person.

I had no idea what the problem was...other than the drum would not spin and it made a horrible noise...so I figured the motor was still good. I figured the repair man would charge me $200 and a new washer is $300...so what have I got to lose? First, I unplugged the unit. I started by removing the top control box by removing two screws in the back of it. Once off, there are two big clips which hold the body in place. That came off easy. I removed the back next and now had everything out in the open. I disconnected the exit greywater pump which was easy with two snaps. I tipped the unit on the side and removed the motor - also attached with two snap on clips. Between the motor and the gearbox there is a shock absorbing coupler which consist of two white plastic rings with 3 fingers each. These interconnect with a black rubber piece. Once of the white rings was cracked in half and one of the fingers was broken off. So that easy to figure out. I ordered a new coupling on partselect on Friday afternoon. On the next morning, Saturday, Fedex showed up with the replacement part. I was pretty amazed at the fast service since I only paid $7 for ground shipping. Anyway, I put the new coupling on and put the whole thing back together...we've run a dozen loads since without a hiccup. Beats dumpstering the unit or calling a repairman. I spent about an hour to take it apart and about an hour to get it all back together. You definately need a good socket set, screwdrivers. Good luck.

Thank you for asking me how it went. the washer would not spin or pump water out, so I put it on its side and saw that the coupling was bad.
so I found you on the internet, thankyou very much, and put a order in for the part. well waiting for the part, I took the old coupling out it was easy, there was two metal bands one on each side of the motor took them off two bolts holding a plate on, and had old coupling in hand. and it was easy to put back with the new coupling. I enjoyed working on it. Dennis