11020362810 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Easy, just followed the repair video. Recommend also ordering the drive belt. Bought one locally during my repair.

Once we put in the new Water Inlet Valve, the auto sensor works now and I can wash any size load

unfasten top from back, slide top forward and lift up, remove switch and cable (one piece), in stall new switch and cable, put top down and slide back, reinstall screws.

Changing the gear case is a basic R and R operation since the gear case is a complete assembly riveted together. It is a bit challenging though getting to it because you have to totally disassemble the entire washer nearly every nut, bolt and screw. Fortunately the washer is fairly easy to work on and I am very mechanically inclined, but I did cheat a bit by watching some U-tube videos first. I couldn't find the same exact model washer as mine on U-tube but there were enough similar units to obtain the basic procedure. A thing I do when disassembling things is to take pictures of the way it's put together before removing stuff. It goes without saying that you first have to disconnect the power, the water hoses and it helps to get the washer out away from the wall so you can work around it. You have to remove the top, back panels, and the inner and outer tubs first. After removing the inner and outer tubs I turned the washer upside down in order to gain access to the gear case so I wouldn't have to stand on my head or lay down. Remove everything attached to the gear case (take picture) and use a strap wrench (or a strong friend) to hold the large pulley while removing the retaining nut. To remove the condenser (large round thing in black plastic retainer) rotate it counter clockwise and lift out, it doesn't snap out. I was very happy to see that the new gear case came with the shaft seal already installed so with a small amount of liquid dish soap around the outside of the rubber it allowed a nice slip fit back into the outer tub. All the parts that were removed pretty much will only fit one way so you don't have to worry too much about how everything goes back together. After reassembly and hooking up the washer again be sure to perform the calibration procedure before you turn on the water. Instructions came in the box with the gear case. Here is a side bar: I am 76, my grandson and I replaced the gear case in just a few hours, It's no big deal. Now for the interesting part, when I ordered the replacement gear case by the old part number I was told it had been superseded by a new number so when the new unit arrived I discovered that the shaft and seal looked different so hopefully the water leaking into bearing won't happen again. I was going to drill the old gear case apart and replace the bad bearing so I am glad I didn't because the shaft and seal would continue to leak and ruin the bearing again so don't try that. One thing I would like to mention about this company from which I ordered the part was the amazing delivery, only 36 hours. I ordered the part Sunday evening late and Tuesday morning early it arrived. Wow, blew me away, also I live in California and apparently the company is in Nova Scotia, no sales tax, Woo Hoo.

DO NOT do this repair from the top. The only thing needed to be removed from the top of the machine is the agitator and retaining clip. After removing these items, lay the machine on its front, on a table if you have a friend who will help. Remove the back cover. Simply disconnect the wiring, remove the water pump, the tub locking mechanism, the belt, and motor. Remove the four bolts holding the gearcase. It should come out with little effort. Remove the old tub seal. There should be a new one on the replacement. Lubricate the new seal. Dishwashing liquid worked great. Move the drive wheel from the old gearcase to the replacement part. All the parts originally removed will only fit one way. Reverse all the removal steps and you be should be ready to go. My only problem with the replacement was there was no groove in the new part spline for the tub retaining clip. Seemed to be no problem since the agitator is bolted on so the tub is going nowhere.

The belt in this model is underneath the washing machine. Disconnect water lines and power cords, set up the drain hose in a bucket to avoid water spilling on the floor, tip the washing machine on its back, remove two bolt screws holding the plastic covering the belt, remove the old belt, and install the new one.

The video you sent me was very helpful told me the exact tools I needed and how to do it.
Thank you

Unplug washer
Take back panel off
Un plug lid switch
Take screwdriver snap out switch
Snap in New switch
Plug it in
Replace back panel plug in washer
Wash

THE NEW LATCH COMES WITH A NEW BEZEL ATTACHED, WHICH MOUNTS TO THE TOP OF THE WASHER, JUST UNDERNEATH THE LID. BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL BEZEL WAS IN PERFECT CONDITION AND DIFFICULT TO REMOVE, I DECIDED TO REMOVE THE BEZEL ON THE NEW LATCH, AND USE THE ORIGINAL ONE. THIS WOULD HAVE TO BE DONE REGARDLESS IN ORDER TO INSTALL THE NEW LATCH. REMOVING THE BEZEL WAS DIFFICULT DUE TO ALL THE LOCKING TABS THAT KEEP IT IN PLACE. I HAD TO RESTRAIN THE SLIDING SWITCH PARTS WHILE I REMOVED TO BEZEL TO AVOID THE ASSEMBLY FROM COMING APART. ONCE I SNAPPED THE NEW LATCH TO THE EXISTING BEZEL, THE ASSEMBLY WORKED FINE. TAKE TIME TO STUDY HOW THE LATCH ASSEMBLY IS ATTACHED TO THE BEZEL SO THAT YOU DON'T BREAK SOMETHING. USE A VERY SMALL SCREWDRIVER TO PRY BACK THE PLASTIC TABS IN ORDER TO RELEASE THE BEZEL FROM THE LATCH ASSEMBLY.

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

Cold and hot water valve .easy as pie.

I did the repair just as the video showed, and had no problems at all.
the hardest thing I had to do was to move the washer out to where I could get to the back of the machine.
Due to the help of the sales rep and the video the repair was very easy

Thanks
Louis

Tipped washer on its back & tookold Washer pulley assembly off & put new one on.

Turn off the water at both the cold and hot. May need an bucket to catch any water left in the lines. Then unplug the washer to kill power of course...Taking off the 10 or so small screws in the back metal cover will get you started. The tricky part is getting the clips off the back top where the knobs are. You will have 2 plastic clips and 2 metal clips, 1 on each side. Take a flat head and ease them up and out....careful not to break them! You can pull the whole control panel away from your work area. Once you have full accuses to the valves its self, it is held in by 2 screw on the top inside a slot. You can now unplug the pigtail harness. Repeat the process in reverse to get it back together and the job is complete. 30 to 45 minutes Max.

I unscrewed the top panel of the washer. I lifted up the top and used the pint scrapper to loosen up the lid switch and slid it out. I pulled the switch wiring harness out of the rear top of the washer. I slid the new lid switch and wiring harness back through the opening and secured the switch in place. Screwed it back in place. Took less than 15 minutes. I followed the instructions on the video, easy peasy lemon squeezy.